Hi i have a model with a closed loop elevator ( two wires for each elev half) and after tightning up all the wires i can still move the elevator up and down with the servo still, but i dont want to over tighten. Is there any guage as to how tight the loop should be? Thought id get a better response in this forum as unsure where else to post thanks cougar. I am thinking it would maybe easier to use mini servos in the tail if i cant get a satisfactory result with the wires? The model is a weston Hype 3D if any of you know it.

Cheers again cougar.

Try posting in the 3d forum, a lot of guys there are very experienced in this.

For the record, my Ripmax Extreme had C/L rudder and I could move it about 1.5 inches either way [X(]

They should be tight, but not to any extreme. Without getting out a tension gauge, just think about this:

1 You don't want any slop, or slack in the wires
2 you don't want to rip the control horns out of the elevator, or bind the servo

Shoot for somewhere in between

Should be firm/taut and not tight, no slack ... how is that for description.

Are we talking about planes or...?

Oh man Piper!!! Go and get some work done and stop SURFING those PORN sites!!!

It's cause I don't have any Japanese twins to chat with

IMO, lines should "twang" when played like a guitar, but the note should be low in pitch. You should be able to delfect the lines a litte at the midpoint under moderate presssure. Can't really give absolutes becaue the tone of the string and the amount of deflection will depend upon the lenght and weight of the line. Do not over tighten as this increases failure rates and stresses airframe, but too loose and the surface will feel sloppy. Find a happy medium. There typically is a little play in the surface. As long as both lines are taught, this isn't a issue in flight.

Cheers Guys from what you have said i dont thing i should go any tighter than i already have.

Thanks again cougar.

Hi!
Having wires to control the elevator and side-ruder doesn't mean that you have to tighten the wires much!
I have used this technique on most of my models, F3D pylonracers, aerobatic and scale and I can assure you that all my controll surfaces are dead stiff but the wires are not particularly hard tightened, because you don't have to! Ceartainly no "twang" sound in my wires.
The clue to a strong and stiff controll surface is to use as long control horns as possible and as short servo horns as possible.
And naturally using good control linkage. See picture of the Easton aluminum arrow shaft I use in my Great Planes GEE- BEE R-2 to link both elevator halfes.Wire is thinnest possible fishing wire.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Assuming you have taken care to make sure the pivot points are correct, that is line attachment at the horns and servos are right on the center line or (at the moveable surface slightly behind the center line) leave the lines as loose as you can and still have control. If the pivot line at the moveable surface is slightly aft of the hinge line, it is okay to have a little slack appear in the non pulling line as you give some off center control. If one of the lines tighten up as you move from neutral position, you should change your geometry of where the lines attach to the horns. Tight lines will cause excessive current draw and servo wear.

Rodney maks a good point. I actually intentionally use offset geometry (piviot slightly aft of hinge) in my pull-pull setups for the very reason he indicated. I.E. line not pulling goes a bit slack as surface deflects, both lines taught at neutral. This works well because at deflection, only one line is working under tension, i.e. the pulling line, the slack line does no work. However, around netural, both lines go taught giving good neutral deflection control.

jaka makes a good point. With very long control horns and short servo arm, the "gearing" is such that the effect of line slop is reduced, so lines don't need to be as tight as a symetrical system to have the same precision. However, this method will not work for planes that need large throws, i.e. 3D. But would work very well for general sport, precision planes, etc.

piper - what is your wife going to say about this!!! Two at a time is good fun ... hehehe

Probably best that I say no more on this subject