Ukmaxi

Hi there,

I am just curious to know, how you start your engine, i am currently building an old precedent hi-boy my dad bought ten years ago along with a futaba radio kit, i have bought all the parts i need exept for a fuel tank, and a pump, its just how do you start the engine without you injuring your self i.e your fingure, plus you do not know where i could find some instructions for my aircraft as these outdated ones are anoying, its just writing no illistration, which made me think to buy a new aircraft such as a ripmax 30/40 trainer ARF would they work with a thunder tiger GP42, i know this seems a lot to answer, but i would like your help. Thanks Lawrence bilton

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Use an electric starter to save the fingers. Once the engine is running, PHYSICALLY MOVE YOUR WHOLE BODY IN BACK OF THE PROPELLOR BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS TO THE ENGINE.

Starting by hand account for a good percentage of injuries to the hand. The next biggest cause (almost as big as starting ) is putting your hand, arm, etc in the prop while attempting to adjust the engine from in front of the prop.

smedsky

The Gp42 is not that old. All you need to know is if it is ringed or of ABC construction wich somone on this thread will tell us shortly, then the break in is quite easy. If you have instructions follow them. If in doubt about fuel, use 5 or 10 nitro and at least some castor oil then you can't go wrong. I would highly suggest you get help at first or start with an .049 that won,t amputate what it hits.

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

If you can afford it, buy a flight box. Several RC Companies offer them and your LHS will probably have one. All differnt styles. Probably some for sale here in the classifieds.

Place for a battery, fuel...you will need one eventually. Electric starter needs 12vdc. My set-up
12VDC battery; enclosed in a compartment; electric fuel pump, power panel to send voltage to heat a battery driven glow driver, elec. starter, fuel pump. Compartments in the top, a drawer, prop holder etc. These come in many varieties or you can make your own.
I bought all the above in one box the day I bought my first plane.

Never use your finger, and be careful of the prop at all times. It is hard to see running. 6 deep slices in my finger taught me to be more careful. I paint the end of my props white if they are not already marked. APC props are very sharp on the backside. Lightly sand the back edge of those props to remove the razor sharp edge. Always check the prop so that you do not cut yourself simply turning the engine over for prime or something.

A device called a "chicken stick" is for flipping the prop manually. Keeps fingers safely away.
Many at my club use those. I like the electric myself, but I have a chicken stick if all else fails.

Good Luck
Michael

SoonerAce

My Feedback: (1)

I suspect perhaps youve never flown? Find an instructor/club, and have a blast,,,,much less hassle than a single 30 second flight to a dirt nap.

martno1fan

hi maxi you can start the engine by hand but only if you use a chicken stick .get a stick about 12 inches long and cover one end in rubber i used a peice of dowel with hose pipe over the end the rubber protects the prop.but an electric starter would be much easier!!.only give the engine one second bursts with starter though!!.as for the engine yes it would be perfect in your suggested alternative trainers good luck.

Ukmaxi

Thanks for the help guys, I have some experiance in RC/heli flying, but i thought i might as well give airplanes ago, i am suggesting getting a new trainer because this old one has useless instructions which are all in writing no illustration, and i think the ripmax trainer would be easier to construct, but as of this moment i am only 15 years of age and earn nothing so i think i will have to wait over time for an electric starter, but i will use the stick method, also do i need a fuel pump to get the fuel into the tank or is it just recmended, i found this hand cranked fuel pump at [link=http://www.myhobbies.co.uk]My hobbies[/link] at the price of £9.99, as advice what do you reckon i should do get the ripmax 30 trainer or stock with the precedent hi-boy. Oh and would epoxy glue work on wood..........

Thanks

mblue2050

My Feedback: (6)

Many folks at my club prefer the hand crank fueler. Fills as fast or slow as you wish. Does not rely on electricity....cheaper.

Epoxy is the best wood adhesive that I am aware of. I could be wrong but that is what most RC manufacturers suggest for high stress areas. Just be certain to mix equal portions of hardner and epoxy or it will never reach full strength. Several formulas are available from quick drying to overnight. Longer setting is stronger.

If you need to build or fix, check out the building forum here. Info on everything here..most good. Good threds on builds there that will probably be exact or close to your planes design.

Planes are not easy, Heli's are a bit touchier and harder. However you can hover a heli right next to the ground where only slight damage might occur. Planes require speed for lift so once your up... your commited and you best know how to fly and land or have someone with you that does.

I am not familiar with the planes you mention...sorry.

Ukmaxi

Thanks i also forgot to mention what this aircrafts name is :lol: Its a Precedent Hi-boy have you hear of them?

Redback

I had a Precedent Hi Boy when I was learning about 7 years ago. Mine had ailerons though I believe there may also have been a 3 channel version without.

The kit also has a fixed nose wheel (ie no steering) though I converted mine to be steerable.

They have a fairly high wing loading as I recall, which means that they fly a bit faster than the average trainer. Flew OK though, however I seem to remember that it was a bit of a handful on ground handling.


Terry

Ukmaxi

Oh buger!! mine is 3 servo controled, so that means i will have no roll, if it has no alirons, i am definately getting a new aircraft

Fastsky

Makes sure that you get new batterys for the Tx. and Rx. Even if they "seem to take a charge". I have watched a few planes go down after about 5 minutes because the charge went out of an old battery pack. [X(]

Ukmaxi

Don't worry i have already done that!!! May i ask do you know what size fuel tank i will need!!

britbrat

An 8 oz tank will give you about 15 min of run time with that engine.

Fastsky

Rule of thumb is: use an 8 oz. tank for a 40 engine and bump it up to a 10 oz. tank for a 46 engine. The 8 oz. tank is all you need for your GP42. Great little engine by the way! [8D]

Barwelle

I have a prob startin my engine. Its an Evolution .46NT (2-stroke, bearing engine) Last night I started it for the first time. I primed it, put the glow driver on, and turned it over with a chicken stick...all as per the instructions. after about 2 minutes, it was firing, but just sputtering and not steadily firing. another minute, and I had it going. let it idle for 1/2 a minute, then slowly revved it up then back down and took the glow driver off, as per the instructions. Then I tuned it like the instructions told me to do... with the hispeed needle valve, you have to pinch the fuel line and listen to see how much it rev's up before it dies, then adjust it accordingly. (i put that in because I dont know if that is how you tune all motors) After It was warmed up, it would start on the 1st or 2nd flick easily, and when it was running, it didnt backfire or miss or anything, even with the glowdriver off. just after I figured I had it all goin good and tuned, (I was going to run a tank through it to break it in) I tried to start it... and it wouldn't go!! it wasn't even firing at all, no sputtering, nothing!! I changed the glowplug. nothing. changed the battery in the glow driver. nothing. didnt get anything out of it. So i drained the tank, put some after-run in the motor, and left it overnight. Tried again this afternoon, but same deal. it doesnt even fire for a second. help, please?

I noticed something, i dont know what it is. After I packed away the plane and stuff, I noticed that on the cement pad I ran the plane on, there was this brownish-clear thick gunk where the exhaust would've been pointing, and there's also a thin film of that on the plane. I'll give you some #'s on the fuel... it says 5% SPORT FUEL SYN: 75%, CAS: 25%, the brand is Xtra Performance. This is what was recommended to me at the LHS. The manual for the motor recommended atleast 10%, and i told the guy, but he said 5% is good enough.

Pilot Chad

My Feedback: (4)

Barwelle, sometimes after a while they just don't get enough compression to stick it. I just finnially got my electric starter. I used to just try to prime it andough to fire, but sometimes it didnt work, with and electric it would start right up. Could also be your glow driver.

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

I also beleive the reason you see the brownish gunk where the exhuast was is because you are running rich.. I run rich all the time its always better to run rich than lean.