shd3920

Here is the airplane me and my friend are going to learn on. It is an Air Scout kit designed by Owen Kampan distributed by ACE RC, 116 W. 19th Street, P.O Box 511, Higgingsville MO 64037. It has been stored for quite a while. Decided to bring it back out and get it covered. We are going to do a tiger scheme in Coverite pre-painted fabric with orange base color with black tiger stripes with the bottoms of the wing and stabilizer orange. We are also looking for a tiger figure to use as a pilot. Engine is going to be a .19 size I-don't-know-what (any suggestions of a good reasonable-priced engine?), radio is going to be a Futaba digital 4-model-memory 4-channel which will be shared with my Skylark 56 Mark II. Waiting for the covering now to be delivered from Tower Hobbies and hopefully it will finished within a few weeks.

Blue_Moon_

looking good wingspan? weight?

bruce88123

OK, we'll be waiting to see some progress.

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

Cool! Mine just shipped earlier today from Sheldon's Hobbies, $41+shipping [sm=thumbup.gif]


Can't wait to see how yours turns out... should be nice with the tigger stripes.

shd3920

Tonight's work - epoxied stabilizer/fin assembly to fuselage; temporarily installed hinges and assembled main landing gear & tail wheel to fuselage, and built a servo tray with switch harness attachment from scratch, and glued servo rails inside fuselage. Going to have a push/pull on/off switch on outside of fuselage.

UPDATE: Decided against the internal harness switch attachment and went with the traditional external (see post # 11)

R T W

Looking good what is the wing span and will it be large enough to see in the air
as to orientation

shd3920

SPECIFICATIONS:

Wing span - 54 inches, flat-bottom airfoil
Wing area - 490 sq inches
.15 - .25 engine
2 - 3 channel operation

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

Should be as easy to see as any other, depending on color choice. Orientation may be easier, as it's designed as a slow, "floater" type. Lots of time to react.
Thanks for adding the specs, tigerdude.(haven't gotten mine yet, I ordered "blind", inspired by yours)

Looks like I may be going home a little earlier than planned, I may actually be able to start mine and contribute to this thread afterall.

bruce88123

Tigerdude - if you think you will be flying out of grass, you might want to go ahead and get a little bigger engine. Get a .25 and just throttle back after airborne. I think that you will find more .25 available also. You could use:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=OSMG0525&P=7
or even
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...25&FVPROFIL=++
I would prefer the FX myself but if money is an issue the LA would do for this plane. The FX is a better built engine with more power and better suited for use in later planes of similar size. It also has ball bearings.
Your budget is a determining factor. Others will recommend other engines I am sure. These are 2 I am familiar with in this size

shd3920

bruce, most if not all my flying (whenever that may come) will be performed in grass. Just so happens I have this Magnum XL .25 sitting around in the cellar collecting dust (a bit of rust on the spark plug is about all that seems to be wrong with it) but don't you think that is a bit much for such a small airplane? It is afterall only 54". If you think it is safe to run something that big in it I will take your advice (will save me around $70 after all). Thing is I bought a Hayes .19 mount already for the kit and what will I do with that?

EDIT: If I put a powerful engine in like that won't I need to modify a break-away plate for it? Originally the kit does not call for one, just the engine to be placed on an engine mount itself. I already have the firewall drilled out for the Hayes motor mount, and I have already added a plywood divider in the fueltank area to keep it away from the battery so I can not get in there to redo the engine mount to a bigger size. With a heavier engine won't I need the extra protection or can I just put it on heavy plywood bearers alone? If I need to do a break-away plate how do I go about doing it with nothing drawn up on the plans - like what angle should it be and such? Most kits need it done up at 2% thrust and how do I put that in to the modification?

shd3920

TODAY'S BUILD: Photos 1, 2 & 3 - installed the nylon tubing for the pushrods (decided to go with that choice as I find it to be smoother). Photo 4 - glued a ply platform in tank area to separate fuel tank and battery. Photo 5 - installed harness switch to fuselage (decided not to go with the push/pull arrangement). Photo 6 - hatch completed. Photos 7, 8, 9 & 10 - temporarily positioned pushrods and servos. Gonna end it there tonight as I got this real bad Summer cold and throat is so raw it feels like I swallowed sandpaper [:'(] [sm=bananahead.gif]!!!

shd3920

I would love to see you add your Air Scout to this thread . . . That would be so awesome. Can not wait to see your contributions.

bruce88123

OK school time again, sorry. Not a spark plug -no spark. They are GLOW plugs as they glow when the battery is attached. Again there are gas fueled RC engines that do have spark plugs but these do not.

Magnum .25 would work fine if it has not rusted up internally. You need to determine if it will still operate without repairs. If OK, I'd use it. The kit mfg said the plane is DESIGNED for this size engine so why the concern? Not sure what you are calling "break away plate" is this the "firewall" that the mount bolts onto? Another mount similar to the Hayes type should be fine. Don't over design this thing.

The mount you have might be returnable if not drilled or damaged and you still have orig packaging. Again, trade it for correct mount not cash. Take new engine to LHS with you for test fitting in the mount to find best one. Installing a different mount should be a relatively easy task. Don't suppose you have any of the plan sheets/instructions for the Scout laying about? If not, maybe cwrr5 can tell you what mounting info you need when he gets his kit. Hold off a little on this if you need to. The money saved by having the engine will offset any loss incurred by replacing the mount.

Your close-ups are still blurry (need new camera - sorry again) but from what I can see the radio installation looks good. How are the push rods attached at the ends? Z-bends, L-bends w/keepers, EZ connectors

BTW - Fuel tank floor is nice idea but don't make perm next time. Next plane put support bearers along sides. Cut ply to fit. Hold in position with one very small screw on each side. This allows very easy access and ease for fuel proofing the area. Are you going to be able to get battery in/out easy

Gollywock

Tigerdude- A little late now, but it's a lot easier to cover your airframe before you glue the tail group on- Jim

shd3920

Sorry bruce.
I guess I misquoted again [:-], bruce, but the flat plywood that lays across the engine mounting rails [what I called engine bearers [sm=bananahead.gif]] in the shape of a 'U' that the engine bolts to - [I guess it's really called the engine mounting plate]
Yes I have both but they only direct you in using the Hayes mount with a .19 engine. Haven't decided yet, they are not attached yet. What do you recommend? I was thinking maybe EZ connectors or Z-bends. Oh, yes. I have loads of room for the battery and plenty of foam with room still to spare. Instructions said to do it this way because of the filler block that has to go on both sides of the fin to be shaped and blended in with the fuselage.

Sounds like to me it would be simpler to epoxy hard plywood blocks to the engine compartment as engine mounting rails and bolt the engine right to that. Is that doable????

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

Tigerdude, don't worry so much about the little details...

Usually kits will reccomend a range of engine sizes (ie: .15 to .25). Anything within that range is fine, but I always lean towards the upper end of what is reccomended(if not higher). You can always decrease the throttle if it's too fast/powerful, but you can never squeeze enough power out of an engine that doesn't have enough power. You never, ever, never want an underpowered airplane, ever. That Mag .25 would be perfect! Clean it up and install it. [sm=thumbup.gif]

I wouldn't worry about that break away plate, props are (relatively) cheap. Buy lots of 'em - you're going to need them. Just mount the engine straight to the engine mount, no need to add/change anything. As far as what the plans/instructions say, that's just as an example. Any mount engine combo within the suggested range will work, many times the mount will fit several different engine sizes. (GP adjustable mounts are good, if LHS has them)

I don't have much to say about pushrods, except stay away from the EZ connectors for primary flight controls(rudder, aileron, elevator). They're ok for throttle. Problem is that they have a tendency to "slip" over time, unless you're real careful on the installation. Not worth the hassle IMO. Other than that, use whatever works.

As far as covering, there are some that cover before(like an ARF), and some that cover after. Only way to find out what you like better is to do both, then decide. Filler blocks can be done if temporarily attached, sanded, then removed and covered, then reinstalled. Not sure it's much of a time or effort saver on this one though. I'll think that one through when I get mine started. Not too difficult to do when already attached... If you get stuck, give us a yell, and we'll throw a dozen suggestions at you.

Hope you feel better soon!

BTW - balsa dust is really, really bad when you have a cold or flu. Hold off on any sanding until you're better. Trust me(experience).

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

Sure it's doable, but probably not worth the extra effort. The fiberglass engine mounts are plenty strong, and no big deal to drill new holes to mount the mount.

bruce88123

First - STOP apologizing, there is no need.

That could be called a "break away plate". Usually that is mounted to bearers that extend back through the firewall. Probably like in the Skylark. Then the Ply bolts/screws to that and the engine attaches to the plate. Do the plans show bearers ONLY forward of the firewall? I'm doubting it. Either mounting method would work but I would prefer the bearers to go though the firewall for the plate method. Check the plans carefully.

Normal purchase sequence I use is:
Get engine
Determine mounting method and obtain correct mount if needed
Install mount

By buying your mount first, you can't even be sure it would fit the engine you choose. Not all engines of a given displacement have the same mounting dimensions.

Z-bends, L-bends w/keepers, EZ connectors is the order of preference. L-bends are easy and can be done with these to retain them:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC3&P=7

Many people frown/hate these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXE114&P=K
but in non-critical places (throttle) they are nice.


BTW - Sand outside

shd3920

OK, I will use an adjustable or similar engine mount (maybe I have a spare hanging around) - I will just have to remove the fueltank platform I put in so I can get to the back of the firewall. Seeing as though I am removing the platform anyway, I guess I can just leave it out - no real need for it probably. Just use extra foam to compact it all more. Stupid question: With an engine mount you obviously can not use blindnuts to hold the bolts in place, so will ordinary bolts with locking nuts be sufficient in holding the engine on? Or will I need to epoxy around the nuts for extra security.

P.S: I am sorry for apologizing all the time [sm=biggrin.gif]

EDIT: On the Skylark it shows the bearers going all the way through the firewall. On the Air Scout it does not show bearers, only an engine mount.

P.S AGAIN: I think I will just go with the Z bends unless I have extra L-bend keepers laying around as well. Don't really wanna buy any more extras at this point.

P.S YET AGAIN The Air Scout calls for only a 4 oz tank. But there is loads of room for a tank in the compartment. Would it be safe (weightwise) to put in a bigger tank? I have an 8 oz tank laying around - would that be too big weightwise?

bruce88123

I knew it. You apologized for apologizing. Just too polite. I was thinking you might do that.

8 oz would give a lonnnng run time on a .25 engine and it may not fit. easy enough to check. If you decide you want a bigger tank just take fuselage to LHS with you for test fitting before buying. This way you can show off your work to the guy there too. You'll know what fits in the way of a mount and the tank. 6 oz would be plenty if the 8 won't fit.

Z-bends can be tricky to bend at times but L's are easy. Practice the Z's first if you decide on them.

shd3920

Im sorry. But for real: There is loads of room in the compartment for the 8 oz. Im just worried that a full tank would add too much weight to the plane. For a .25 size engine I imagine it would be best to have a bigger fuel tank wouldn't it? And could someone respond to the new questions I edited in the above post? Thank you so much

bruce88123

Locking nuts fine. Use allen head bolts instead of Phillips head screws. Better torque available. 4-40 of suitable length for this size engine.

Did I miss anything?

I'd rather see a 6 Oz tank in there myself. Plane needs to balance with no fuel, if a bit nose heavy with fuel that is OK but not TOO nose heavy either. No rule says that you have to fill the 8 Oz tank either but it will be difficult to guess how much is in there unless you open a hatch every time.

shd3920

Going to my LHS and picking up a engine mount for my .25 and exchanging an unopened 8 oz tank I have for a 6 oz. Goodbye for now. Hoping to get my covering delivered before the end of the week so I can get This plane finished. See yah soon!!!

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

6 oz. is much better, good choice. It will run for a nice looooong time with that, especially as this is not a "full-throttle speed demon".

Bruce has good advice.... even if you are driving him nuts with the "sorries". LOL!
I'll check back in a week or so - good luck with the build. [sm=thumbup.gif]

shd3920

LHS was closed when I got there [:@] so going back today. My Coverite fabric arrived last night [sm=thumbup.gif] so I am looking forward to getting this baby covered. Looking at the colors in front of me now I can see they are going to mesh together beautifully so long as I can cut out and place the tiger scripes neatly. All I need now is to get to the LHS and exchange the 8 oz tank with a 6 oz, get the engine mount for my .25, and get the control hookups for the pushrod ends - gonna go for the L-control links I guess - and I will have everything I need to get this baby finished. Looking forward to it. Would be real nice to find a tiger pilot to finish the theme, will continue to look for one that will fit.

Ripped out the permanently attached fueltank platform so I can get to the firewall and attach the bigger engine mount. Reconfigured the platform to be removable with a single bolt and blindnut.

Sorry for driving you nuts with all the sorries - LOL - Just had to add that in!!!!!!!!!

QUESTION: (what else is new huh ) Will the Windex method for attaching trim work with Coverite fabric?????