Exactly how much does a plane cost?
#51
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
i think i said before that i was going in a couple fo days to my local hobby shop. Im probably gonna get a 50"-60" kit and radio /engine tools etc..
should i get everyhitng at once or get the kit tools and books first and engine, radio, etc later?
should i get everyhitng at once or get the kit tools and books first and engine, radio, etc later?
#52
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From: Lilburn, Georgia
ReallyUglyStick, PaPa, MikeL., and Crash'em,
I'm sorry for becoming upset. I think that the idea of getting your dad involoved is by far, the best suggetion yet!!!
Again,
sorry for the harsh words.
I'm sorry for becoming upset. I think that the idea of getting your dad involoved is by far, the best suggetion yet!!!
Again,
sorry for the harsh words.
#53
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From: Atlanta, GA
ReallyUglystick has hit the nail on the head.
Dad would certainly expand the budget and I think he would enjoy it as well.
Regardless, anyone getting into the hobby is gonna spend some cash. But how much really depends on personality, some people go all out and buy anything they can get thier hands on. Yes they obviously have the bug, and while I think thats killing a gnat with a sledge hammer, then so be it as long as they have the funds and are getting off on it.
Others tend to shop and buy the cheapest everything. These are the people that roll nickels around like manhole covers. I know cause Im one of them.
I will not buy something in the hobby shop that I can get for a couple bucks cheaper on the web. Especially these days, someone said it earlier, hobbyshops are just not as supportive as they once were. Dont get me wrong though, I spend lots of money in the hobby shop, I just wont let them rob me. Im still amazed when I see items that are 30% to 50% markup.
So to give my opinion on the actual question, I would think that $500 would be a reasonable budget to get started. That considering that you shop and compare and do your homework. Keep in mind though that what you buy now can reflect on what you have into this hobby in the future.
If your really good you can even do it cheaper than that, Buying a used plane that already has all the fixings with a radio field box etc is a great way to go if you have someone that knows what to look for.
Like I say its an individual situation in my opinion. Some people have workshops with all the tools, some live in apartments and have special circumstances, Others have big budgets, some of us dont. Its whatever you make of it really, you have the sticks.
Now Papa NeGeorgeo, You need to have a talk with your Papa!
Just mine
Dbow
Dad would certainly expand the budget and I think he would enjoy it as well.
Regardless, anyone getting into the hobby is gonna spend some cash. But how much really depends on personality, some people go all out and buy anything they can get thier hands on. Yes they obviously have the bug, and while I think thats killing a gnat with a sledge hammer, then so be it as long as they have the funds and are getting off on it.
Others tend to shop and buy the cheapest everything. These are the people that roll nickels around like manhole covers. I know cause Im one of them.
I will not buy something in the hobby shop that I can get for a couple bucks cheaper on the web. Especially these days, someone said it earlier, hobbyshops are just not as supportive as they once were. Dont get me wrong though, I spend lots of money in the hobby shop, I just wont let them rob me. Im still amazed when I see items that are 30% to 50% markup.
So to give my opinion on the actual question, I would think that $500 would be a reasonable budget to get started. That considering that you shop and compare and do your homework. Keep in mind though that what you buy now can reflect on what you have into this hobby in the future.
If your really good you can even do it cheaper than that, Buying a used plane that already has all the fixings with a radio field box etc is a great way to go if you have someone that knows what to look for.
Like I say its an individual situation in my opinion. Some people have workshops with all the tools, some live in apartments and have special circumstances, Others have big budgets, some of us dont. Its whatever you make of it really, you have the sticks.
Now Papa NeGeorgeo, You need to have a talk with your Papa!
Just mine
Dbow
#54
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
if u do all my homework and no exaclty what im getting should i get engine radio and kit at once or each at seprate times? (just in case)
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From: Pa.
Hi Papa NeGeorgeo,
I just posted a NEW THREAD instead of a reply here is my .02c worth. http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...128&forumid=22]
I just posted a NEW THREAD instead of a reply here is my .02c worth. http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...128&forumid=22]
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From: Atlanta, GA
RC4me:
Why post to a new thread, keep everything here in this thread.
Papa, I would do the research individually on each item. Research and decide on a plane, then your engine, and your radio. They dont need to be in that order because most of the trainers are about the same on the engine requirements.
Anyway, as for specifics my suggestion for a first plane would be the Superstar .40, Sig LT40 or 60, or of course the Avistar.
You cannot go wrong with any of those planes and I think they all have a particular version that is an ARF and comes with monokote.
The Tower trainer suggested in the thread above does not come with monokote but rather with contact paper as far as I know.
This means that when you tear the covering (You will) that you wont be able to patch it easily. Most people at my field that have contact paper use clear packing tape to cover the bruises. Momokote is the way to go, I keep a roll around and when I have to patch something up, I just cut me a piece and apply some heat with my covering iron.
As for the engine:
I suggest the O.S .46FX, you will be more than pleased with this engine and it will last a very long time. Its more than enough power for any of the above .40 size planes. The .40LA which I think is cheaper has a bushing on the shaft instead of a bearing. THis means that the .40 would have a shorter life in comaprison to the the .46FX which has a bearing.
Radio:
Some will say to grab a 4 channel cheap radio. I have to suggest that you go for at least an entry level computer radio. It will last you for a while and will do just about anything you need right now.
I run a Futaba 6XAS, it is an awesome radio but I am already looking at the better radios..Futaba of course. It will be a little while but I will step up. The 6xas is plenty though for my superstar and will work great for my second plane the SIG 4* 60 (Under Construction).
Keep in mind that Im not pushing brands just offering my choices.
JR is a very popular radio as well as Hitec. In particular I like the Hitec because of the Spectra module. It allows you to dial in different frequencies on your transmitter considering you have bought the rcvr crystals. While you may not need all the channels, its certainly something to look at if your club is rather large and busy.
anyhow, once you decide on what you want (took me about 3 to 4 months to put it together) Start shopping. You might be able to find it in a package deal but I doubt it.
I feel like the package deals leave a lot to be desired. They have to get a reasonable price somehow and I feel they throw in cheapos to do it. Most package deals I have looked at are..Hey everything is great except for...
I suggest you start doing searches on this forum and reading as much as you can. I hate it that I dont have a laptop, cant take the desktop into the bathroom to read...lol
And of course fire off as many questions as you can think of here, you will find that there are some very intelligent people on here that are happy to help out.
MinnFLyer and MikeL are two that I always see on the board and always seem to have a good attitude and good answers. So thanks to them for being so helpful.
Thanks to all the others as well.
Just mine
Dbow
Why post to a new thread, keep everything here in this thread.
Papa, I would do the research individually on each item. Research and decide on a plane, then your engine, and your radio. They dont need to be in that order because most of the trainers are about the same on the engine requirements.
Anyway, as for specifics my suggestion for a first plane would be the Superstar .40, Sig LT40 or 60, or of course the Avistar.
You cannot go wrong with any of those planes and I think they all have a particular version that is an ARF and comes with monokote.
The Tower trainer suggested in the thread above does not come with monokote but rather with contact paper as far as I know.
This means that when you tear the covering (You will) that you wont be able to patch it easily. Most people at my field that have contact paper use clear packing tape to cover the bruises. Momokote is the way to go, I keep a roll around and when I have to patch something up, I just cut me a piece and apply some heat with my covering iron.
As for the engine:
I suggest the O.S .46FX, you will be more than pleased with this engine and it will last a very long time. Its more than enough power for any of the above .40 size planes. The .40LA which I think is cheaper has a bushing on the shaft instead of a bearing. THis means that the .40 would have a shorter life in comaprison to the the .46FX which has a bearing.
Radio:
Some will say to grab a 4 channel cheap radio. I have to suggest that you go for at least an entry level computer radio. It will last you for a while and will do just about anything you need right now.
I run a Futaba 6XAS, it is an awesome radio but I am already looking at the better radios..Futaba of course. It will be a little while but I will step up. The 6xas is plenty though for my superstar and will work great for my second plane the SIG 4* 60 (Under Construction).
Keep in mind that Im not pushing brands just offering my choices.
JR is a very popular radio as well as Hitec. In particular I like the Hitec because of the Spectra module. It allows you to dial in different frequencies on your transmitter considering you have bought the rcvr crystals. While you may not need all the channels, its certainly something to look at if your club is rather large and busy.
anyhow, once you decide on what you want (took me about 3 to 4 months to put it together) Start shopping. You might be able to find it in a package deal but I doubt it.
I feel like the package deals leave a lot to be desired. They have to get a reasonable price somehow and I feel they throw in cheapos to do it. Most package deals I have looked at are..Hey everything is great except for...
I suggest you start doing searches on this forum and reading as much as you can. I hate it that I dont have a laptop, cant take the desktop into the bathroom to read...lol
And of course fire off as many questions as you can think of here, you will find that there are some very intelligent people on here that are happy to help out.
MinnFLyer and MikeL are two that I always see on the board and always seem to have a good attitude and good answers. So thanks to them for being so helpful.
Thanks to all the others as well.
Just mine
Dbow
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From: Pa.
Originally posted by dbow
RC4me:
Why post to a new thread, keep everything here in this thread.
Dbow
RC4me:
Why post to a new thread, keep everything here in this thread.
Dbow
Dbow,
It was a simple mistake. I hit the "New Thread" button instead of the "Reply" Button. Sorry Again...
#58
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
Thanks guys,
ive heard great things about the sig LT-40
but people have suggested that i dont start out that big.
would a sig LT-25 be a good starter plane? im looking for a 40"-50" wingspan.
or would u suggest i start with the big guys from day one?
ive heard great things about the sig LT-40
but people have suggested that i dont start out that big.
would a sig LT-25 be a good starter plane? im looking for a 40"-50" wingspan.
or would u suggest i start with the big guys from day one?
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From: Atlanta, GA
RC4ME,
No problem buddy, I have done that a few times also.
Papa,
Yes thats my opinion, get a real plane. The SIG is a Excellent choice, they make quality stuff.
Im building a 4* right now and its awesome to say the least.
Also, I think the group will agree with me that the LT40 is the general consensus for a begining plane. Heck some people start out with the .60 size, which some say is better.
I dont really know if a .60 is better or not but I say go for the LT40 for sure. You wont be sorry.
Um Im not sure why you would want to go with a smaller plane, but if you are thinking of the park or field down the street then you need to look at things again.
The only way to learn is to Join up with the AMA and head out to your local club. Let an instructor look over your plane and take you up on a buddy box and teach you how to fly.
I know some people think they can learn to fly on their own but I just dont think its possible. Its not hard to learn with help but very hard by yourself.
What are your concerns with the smaller or larger wingspan?
LT40 Has a 70"
Superstar has a 60"
Dbow
No problem buddy, I have done that a few times also.
Papa,
Yes thats my opinion, get a real plane. The SIG is a Excellent choice, they make quality stuff.
Im building a 4* right now and its awesome to say the least.
Also, I think the group will agree with me that the LT40 is the general consensus for a begining plane. Heck some people start out with the .60 size, which some say is better.
I dont really know if a .60 is better or not but I say go for the LT40 for sure. You wont be sorry.
Um Im not sure why you would want to go with a smaller plane, but if you are thinking of the park or field down the street then you need to look at things again.
The only way to learn is to Join up with the AMA and head out to your local club. Let an instructor look over your plane and take you up on a buddy box and teach you how to fly.
I know some people think they can learn to fly on their own but I just dont think its possible. Its not hard to learn with help but very hard by yourself.
What are your concerns with the smaller or larger wingspan?
LT40 Has a 70"
Superstar has a 60"
Dbow
#61
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
First thing its the smaller the cheaper, getting a smaller engine and kit cuts the price a little.
And of course the biggest reason, "the bigger the are the harder they fall" (if thats true with rc planes). Seriuosly im telling u right now i know im gonna eventually crash its happens, one of the biggest worries of getting into this hobby is building the kit spending the $$$ and then destorying my plane of my first run.
On a smaller plane if it crashes the impact wont be as big and a $20 repair can be made and ill be back and flying in no time. however having that huge plane (70" is huge to what i expected) is gonna crash and destroy itself on my first run.
By the way whats the max speed for the sig LT-40 (u can use imperial system for this one,MPH, lol)?
And of course the biggest reason, "the bigger the are the harder they fall" (if thats true with rc planes). Seriuosly im telling u right now i know im gonna eventually crash its happens, one of the biggest worries of getting into this hobby is building the kit spending the $$$ and then destorying my plane of my first run.
On a smaller plane if it crashes the impact wont be as big and a $20 repair can be made and ill be back and flying in no time. however having that huge plane (70" is huge to what i expected) is gonna crash and destroy itself on my first run.
By the way whats the max speed for the sig LT-40 (u can use imperial system for this one,MPH, lol)?
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From: Bloomington,
MN
Originally posted by PaPa-NeGeorgeo
seriuosly im telling u right now i know im gonna eventually crash its happens, one of the biggest worries of getting into this hobby is building the kit spending the $$$ and then destorying my plane of my first run.
seriuosly im telling u right now i know im gonna eventually crash its happens, one of the biggest worries of getting into this hobby is building the kit spending the $$$ and then destorying my plane of my first run.
The best way to make sure your first flight is a positive one is to find yourself an instructor. They'll help you ensure that your plane is airworthy and 100% ready to go before it leaves the ground. They'll teach you how to handle an engine, and introduce you to the basics of flying. It's very, very important that you find one.
The sooner you find one, the better. They can give you hands-on help when you get stuck building, and can help make sure you're on the right track. You want your plane to be built right and last a long time, and a helpful instructor is the one that can help you make that happen.
Bigger planes don't necessarily crash harder. A small plane can be just as easily damaged as a larger one. Larger planes like the LT-40 really are easier to fly, which reduces your chances of crashing.
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From: West Jordan,
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A typical trainer has a MAXIMUM speed around 60 MPH, plus or minus a bit. However, you don't have to stay at full throttle, and can comfortably fly around 30 MPH. This will give you more time to make corrections, extend flying time / decrease fuel usage, and do less damage in the case of a crash.
With RC planes it's not so much that "The bigger they are, the harder they fall", but more "The faster they fly, the more they explode on impact"...
Bigger planes are easier to see, and are usually easier to build (for simple trainers anyhow).
With RC planes it's not so much that "The bigger they are, the harder they fall", but more "The faster they fly, the more they explode on impact"...
Bigger planes are easier to see, and are usually easier to build (for simple trainers anyhow).
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From: West Jordan,
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PaPa,
You have probably read many posts from Americans saying you MUST join the AMA to fly. Since you are in Canada, this does not apply yo you. HOWEVER, in Canada we have the Model Aeronautics Associaton of Canada instead. Many clubs will let you take lessons without joining the club, but most will not allow you to fly without a MAAC membership, since it provides insurance coverage in case your plane goes out of control and hurts someone or something. A junior membership (under 18 yrs old is only $5 (GST included), and well worth it.
For more info, check out http://www.maac.ca
You have probably read many posts from Americans saying you MUST join the AMA to fly. Since you are in Canada, this does not apply yo you. HOWEVER, in Canada we have the Model Aeronautics Associaton of Canada instead. Many clubs will let you take lessons without joining the club, but most will not allow you to fly without a MAAC membership, since it provides insurance coverage in case your plane goes out of control and hurts someone or something. A junior membership (under 18 yrs old is only $5 (GST included), and well worth it.
For more info, check out http://www.maac.ca
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From: Ashburn, VA
PaPa,
Don't make the assumption that no matter what you do your trainer is going to end up as a pile of toothpicks.
If you use and instructor, and fly within your own capabilities, YOU WILL NOT CRASH YOUR TRAINER!
I have been flying my LT-40 since May and have one "crash", which involved a six foot high pile of dirt blocking the end of the runway. It cost me a weeks flying and a new ($5) motor mount, the repair time was an hour, it took a week to get the right mount.
Certainly accidents happen, but if you don't try things beyond your abilities and you pay attention to an instructor, crashes can be prevented.
GB
Don't make the assumption that no matter what you do your trainer is going to end up as a pile of toothpicks.
If you use and instructor, and fly within your own capabilities, YOU WILL NOT CRASH YOUR TRAINER!
I have been flying my LT-40 since May and have one "crash", which involved a six foot high pile of dirt blocking the end of the runway. It cost me a weeks flying and a new ($5) motor mount, the repair time was an hour, it took a week to get the right mount.
Certainly accidents happen, but if you don't try things beyond your abilities and you pay attention to an instructor, crashes can be prevented.
GB
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From: Jewett, NY,
Crashing a plane?
Sooner or later it happens to everyone involved in this hobby.
No one can guarantee that even if you follow all the advice given here and get an instructor that you won't crash!! You may minimize you're chances but there are no guarantees
If you try it without an instructor you'll crash....
If flying with an instructor prevented crashes I'd still be flying with mine
Seriously Papa,
Before you spend any of your hard earned money think about my first sentence.
Most people I know that have been involved in this for a long time go by the saying if you can't afford to crash it don't fly it.
I'm not trying to discourage you. If you're plane crashes don't worry in most cases you'll be able to rebuild it. A skill you'll want if you ever scratch build like you said you wanted to.
I've said this before and I'll Say it agian.........
Look at SPADS before you spend any money on a kit.
SPADS (Simple plastic airplane designs) on your budget it might make sense to look into building these They claim that you can build their planes for 10-20 US each
Sooner or later it happens to everyone involved in this hobby.
No one can guarantee that even if you follow all the advice given here and get an instructor that you won't crash!! You may minimize you're chances but there are no guarantees
If you try it without an instructor you'll crash....
If flying with an instructor prevented crashes I'd still be flying with mine
Seriously Papa,
Before you spend any of your hard earned money think about my first sentence.
Most people I know that have been involved in this for a long time go by the saying if you can't afford to crash it don't fly it.
I'm not trying to discourage you. If you're plane crashes don't worry in most cases you'll be able to rebuild it. A skill you'll want if you ever scratch build like you said you wanted to.
I've said this before and I'll Say it agian.........
Look at SPADS before you spend any money on a kit.
SPADS (Simple plastic airplane designs) on your budget it might make sense to look into building these They claim that you can build their planes for 10-20 US each
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From: Ashburn, VA
When I read the posts on these boards, I continually feel like a complete novice is being given the impression that they no matter what they do, their trainer is going to crash and end up in a thousand pieces.
Granted, over your life in the hobby, many years, you're certainly going to lose a plane (or two or three).
However, in my (albeit limited) experience this year, none of the four student pilots had a major crash that required rekitting.
Of course, the experienced pilots in our club piled them into the dirt left and right.
So, if you do your preflight religiously, know your limitations, and keep air between you and the ground, I bet you can keep a trainer in one piece. Conversely, if you try flying inverted at six feet off the deck your probably toast.
GB
Granted, over your life in the hobby, many years, you're certainly going to lose a plane (or two or three).
However, in my (albeit limited) experience this year, none of the four student pilots had a major crash that required rekitting.
Of course, the experienced pilots in our club piled them into the dirt left and right.
So, if you do your preflight religiously, know your limitations, and keep air between you and the ground, I bet you can keep a trainer in one piece. Conversely, if you try flying inverted at six feet off the deck your probably toast.
GB
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From: Jewett, NY,
When I read the posts on these boards, I continually feel like a complete novice is being given the impression that they no matter what they do, their trainer is going to crash and end up in a thousand pieces.
Murphys Law Rules!!!!
Ghostbear don't take it personally I thought your advice was great up until this statement.
If you use and instructor, and fly within your own capabilities, YOU WILL NOT CRASH YOUR TRAINER!
Conversely neither of us could state with 100% certainty that a person will crash....
It just seems that to me that is some of the statements you make are a little to absolute.
IMHO Some of the fun of any maiden flight is that feeling of uncertainty will come back in the same condition it left in??
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
Questions
could i fly planes in the following areas:
-local park
-farm
-golf course
-lake (jet skis)
-snow covered field (skis)
and if snow and water is acceptable is it appropraite to learn on?
could i fly planes in the following areas:
-local park
-farm
-golf course
-lake (jet skis)
-snow covered field (skis)
and if snow and water is acceptable is it appropraite to learn on?
#72
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From: Bloomington,
MN
Originally posted by PaPa-NeGeorgeo
Questions
could i fly planes in the following areas:
-local park
-farm
-golf course
-lake (jet skis)
-snow covered field (skis)
and if snow and water is acceptable is it appropraite to learn on?
Questions
could i fly planes in the following areas:
-local park
-farm
-golf course
-lake (jet skis)
-snow covered field (skis)
and if snow and water is acceptable is it appropraite to learn on?
You need to find a local club to help you, and you need to fly there!
That has been told to you time and time again. Listen!
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From: Lilburn, Georgia
PaPa,
Obviously I would not be able to cover every reason for crashing, but there are controlled situations where it can and will happen anyway - including the use of an instructor.
Reasons why the student and instructor might crash during flight:
1. Radio interference from another pilot using the same frequency as you. There are 6 other people using "my" frequency at the club that I fly at, I am the seventh... and that channel is 46.
At the club field, there will, or should be, a "frequency board" with all of the frequency numbers on cards... as you arrive, you'll place your AMA or AMAC membership card on a hook next to that particular frequency card... then you take that card and place it on your table (a.k.a. "hanger")... when somebody else shows up at the field with the same frequency, they're not suppose to turn on their radio if the number is not there, and by having your AMAC card in it's place, they'll know who is flying on that frequency, and may ask you for it when your done (or sooner if you're not in the air and just hanging around waiting).
Which leads me back to the earlier point made of getting the best radio you can afford, because a plain FM radio is just that. And if that's all you can afford, then that's one (small) risk you'll have to take and don't worry too much about it, just be aware of it.
If you have a little extra in the budget, it may be wise to purchase a radio that has interchangable frequency modules, Futaba calls them PCM, and JR calls them something else, but the standard radio is set to a frequency and that's it.
If you have a PCM (or whatever), and you're flying... and someone else comes along and does a preflight check and turns on their radio, or if they left the house with it on, and come into range of yours, with out the PCM (or whatever), your plane (and control), are TOAST!
With the PCM, your plane will simply straighten out (neutral) and fly ahead until the frequency interference goes away... hopefully it'll be a short burst.
2. Mid-air collision, wind gust, you break your wing spar, your batteries die (which leads me back again to spending a little more money, for things like a "VoltWatch"), and the list goes on...
3. Your flying with your trainer, but they decide to cut you loose and you do it all to yourself.
There is a saying in motorcycling, "You're either a rider whos' gone down, or you're a rider who's going down.", and the same applys to this.
Don't stay up nights worrying about it, just have a little extra in the piggy bank to cover the cost(s) of repair(s).
But what do I know,
I'm still just a rookie.
Obviously I would not be able to cover every reason for crashing, but there are controlled situations where it can and will happen anyway - including the use of an instructor.
Reasons why the student and instructor might crash during flight:
1. Radio interference from another pilot using the same frequency as you. There are 6 other people using "my" frequency at the club that I fly at, I am the seventh... and that channel is 46.
At the club field, there will, or should be, a "frequency board" with all of the frequency numbers on cards... as you arrive, you'll place your AMA or AMAC membership card on a hook next to that particular frequency card... then you take that card and place it on your table (a.k.a. "hanger")... when somebody else shows up at the field with the same frequency, they're not suppose to turn on their radio if the number is not there, and by having your AMAC card in it's place, they'll know who is flying on that frequency, and may ask you for it when your done (or sooner if you're not in the air and just hanging around waiting).
Which leads me back to the earlier point made of getting the best radio you can afford, because a plain FM radio is just that. And if that's all you can afford, then that's one (small) risk you'll have to take and don't worry too much about it, just be aware of it.
If you have a little extra in the budget, it may be wise to purchase a radio that has interchangable frequency modules, Futaba calls them PCM, and JR calls them something else, but the standard radio is set to a frequency and that's it.
If you have a PCM (or whatever), and you're flying... and someone else comes along and does a preflight check and turns on their radio, or if they left the house with it on, and come into range of yours, with out the PCM (or whatever), your plane (and control), are TOAST!
With the PCM, your plane will simply straighten out (neutral) and fly ahead until the frequency interference goes away... hopefully it'll be a short burst.
2. Mid-air collision, wind gust, you break your wing spar, your batteries die (which leads me back again to spending a little more money, for things like a "VoltWatch"), and the list goes on...
3. Your flying with your trainer, but they decide to cut you loose and you do it all to yourself.
There is a saying in motorcycling, "You're either a rider whos' gone down, or you're a rider who's going down.", and the same applys to this.
Don't stay up nights worrying about it, just have a little extra in the piggy bank to cover the cost(s) of repair(s).
But what do I know,
I'm still just a rookie.
#74
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From: West Jordan,
UT
PaPa,
There are laws in Canada (and surely elswhere) prohibiting flying from any of the mentioned locations except your own property. Even then, there are many other laws to abide by (like noise bylaws, etc...), and the risks are great. Even a 5 pound plane at 60 MPH can do alot of damage, and there are recorded incidents of DEATH due to a person being struck by a plane. If you live in the country, and have about 80 acres or more, and have the blessing of your neighbors you MIGHT be OK to fly there (I did). But please don't try it until AFTER an experienced RC pilot has given sufficient instructions that he feels you are a proficiant pilot and are safe to fly on your own.
An instructor while learning will typically make the difference between your plane surviving the first year (may have minor repairs), or having to rebuild it entirely 5 times before you have even learnt to fly.
Listen to the advise other have given you and other newcomers. We all want new pilots to enjoy themselves, and not get frustrated with numerous crashes early on. A newcomer who destroys his first plane may leave the hobby. The same person might make a great pilot if he/she has a good first experience and sticks with it. For those that enjoy it, this is a hobby for life. I have seen many retired pilots in their 80's still flying.
There are laws in Canada (and surely elswhere) prohibiting flying from any of the mentioned locations except your own property. Even then, there are many other laws to abide by (like noise bylaws, etc...), and the risks are great. Even a 5 pound plane at 60 MPH can do alot of damage, and there are recorded incidents of DEATH due to a person being struck by a plane. If you live in the country, and have about 80 acres or more, and have the blessing of your neighbors you MIGHT be OK to fly there (I did). But please don't try it until AFTER an experienced RC pilot has given sufficient instructions that he feels you are a proficiant pilot and are safe to fly on your own.
An instructor while learning will typically make the difference between your plane surviving the first year (may have minor repairs), or having to rebuild it entirely 5 times before you have even learnt to fly.
Listen to the advise other have given you and other newcomers. We all want new pilots to enjoy themselves, and not get frustrated with numerous crashes early on. A newcomer who destroys his first plane may leave the hobby. The same person might make a great pilot if he/she has a good first experience and sticks with it. For those that enjoy it, this is a hobby for life. I have seen many retired pilots in their 80's still flying.
#75
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From: Bloomington,
MN
Originally posted by MacAir
There are 6 other people using "my" frequency at the club that I fly at, I am the seventh... and that channel is 46.
There are 6 other people using "my" frequency at the club that I fly at, I am the seventh... and that channel is 46.
Crashes happen. If you're careful and catious, they don't happen as often. There aren't any guarantees, and anyone who suggests that there isn't experienced enough in the hobby to say that.
When you're first learning, your experience level is low enough that you're going to make mistakes more often. Your instructor can help correct those before you damage your plane. Eventually you'll fly without an instructor, and the training you've received will help you avoid those mistakes.
That said, accidents can and do happen. It is part of the hobby. I've crashed planes because of misjudging distances, the lack of a thorough preflight, thinking I was more skilled than I am, showing off (those are embarassing), mechanical failure, loss of orientation, and a probably a few other things I can't think of.
That said, I've only had two models that were total write-offs. Each time I've learned or re-learned something, and I try not to make the same mistake twice.You don't have the money for more than one plane, so you'd best make sure the one you get lasts a while. Getting proper instruction at a club is a huge part of that.



