Alright ive finished the basic construction of my sig LT-40 and im at the covering part. Ive had a little trouble covering so far so i want to just make sure im doing it right. I boguth 3 monokote rolls.

Firstly i bought a hanger 9 heat iron but it does not say the temperature on the iron. It just has numbers 1 to 5. Do this correspond to 100 degrees fanhereit or something?

Second is there a way to cover corners? On the rudder at the edge you have to get the covering over 5 corners do i cut the covering?

Is fuel proof painting the inside important cause it seems pointless to buy fuel proof paint for something i dont need?

Any other information you think a beginner coverer should know please tell.

Thanks alot,

Papa

Glad to see your getting it built. Cut your covering just a bit bigger than the part your covering. I leave about 2 inches extra on all sides, but some will say that is too much. Lay the covering on the surface to be covered. Don't try to do it all at once. Top, bottom, then the sides seperately. I use a really sharp blade to trim the exess off carefully when done. Put the covering on the surface you are doing, after you peel the backing off. Use high heat, probably as hot as the iron will get. Test a piece on a scrap piece of wood. If it is a surface with solid wood, start with the heat in the center, working outward so you don't get bubbles. Don't try to go around the corners yet. Once you get it on the flat parts, start working the corners one at a time. Pull hard on the monokote haning loose and work the heat to make the corners without getting wrinkles. Go just a bit more than half way around the corners. Once you get it that far, take your sharp xacto or razor blade, and trim the exess. Don't cut against the wood, have the blade so it just cuts the monokote. After it is cut, use the iron to make sure the edges are all down.

If it is a surface like the wing, lay the monokot on the surface the same way. Do one panel at a time, left bottom, right bottom, left top, right top. Do the ailerons seperately. Start by getting the monokote on there flat, then start with the heat at the spar, or at the back, just tack it on for now, then get the leading edge done the same way. Try to get the wrinkles out before you use heat. Once you get it tacked all the way around, get it all glued good around the edges and trimmed, then go back and shrink the center over the ribs.



You may have an istructor help with this. It is way easier to have someone show you than to explain it.

Hope that helps.

Do what Flyboy suggested, but add the following. In practice, start with the bottom of the wing, overlapping about 1/2 inch and then cover the top with a 1 inch overlap. This way you won't see the seam from a static stand point and it won’t want to loosen as you fly. Same for the fuse, but that really depends on the size. ALWAYS trial fit before taking off the backing from the covering. Sometimes it requires layering, but again, you must trail fit....remember the old adage, double measure and single cut!!!

As for heat, the covering should state the ideal temperature. If you’re not sure, practice, practice, practice, with some scrap wood and covering. Trust me, it’s easier to work with a practice mistake, opposed to a wing or fuse. Good luck and have fun!!!!

papa fuel pruffing is nessary yo keep fuel from soaking into wood. thin elpoxy with rubbing alcahol brush on let dry. fire wall and tank area only 5 minute will work for this.

one way to test the temp on your iron is to set at a medium setting... then if it does not tack to wood increase the temp. and keep increasing until it starts to tack well. of you start off to high it will melt and shrivel on your wood very fast and make an ugly mess. but do try this on a piece of scrap as described before.

I use a heat gun on the corners and edges, it works a little better than the covering iron. Also, a heat gun will take out the wrinkles and creases a little better than a covering iron. Be careful though, its easy to burn holes in the covering, if you try a heat gun... make sure you have it on "low" setting and hold it back away from the covering a little bit.

And always start at the back and work toward the front. That way the airflow won't lift your seams.

MinnFlyer:

You have a handy dandy, oh so explanitory illustration for just about every newbie question!

When is the book coming out!

Seriously, as a newbie, these are more enlightening than sone of the 500 word novellas that others have written. I hereby offer to host a web-site full of your pictures!

I just covered my Sig. The hardest part was the wing. I had a veteran come over and help me with that part. The middle section where the wing is sheeted was the hardest part of the wing. I found that if you put a 4" piece across the middle first, both top and bottom. I then covered the wing panels applying over the middle section. If you press over that section with a damp cold sponge first them heat the monocoat and quickly cool that section down with the sponge again the glue sets faster and doesn't bubble as much. If you get bubbles take a small pin and let the air out.

I checked my irons heat with my wife meat thermometer. I turned it up until it read 275 degrees and made a note of the setting.

I found an easy way to tack down monokote and be able to lift it up without leaving the paint behind. Just rub your palms together and build up some heat, then rub your palm over the monokote and you have a removable tack. Doesn't work in tight corners/bends that well though........

Hey PaPa: To check for proper heat. Use scrap balsa, iron some monokote down. If it wrinkles it's to hot. Now peel up the monokote, it should have some balsa stuck to it, if not turn up the heat a little at a time till it does. Definately fuel proof, the epoxy method mentioned earlier works well. Good luck. Garry