Ho do you increase the aileron throws?? I'm all the way out on the servo arm. Also, Is the baffle really needed in the muffler (O.S. 65 LA)?

Aileron throw can be increased by increasing your end points, and making sure you in the closest hole on the control surface horn. And no, the engine doesn't need the baffle and removing it will get you at least another 1000 RPMs. You will have to adjust the LS needle more than likely.

You could also get a servo output wheel with longer arms. If you have a plane using torque rods like many trainers, move the pushpod attachment point down lower closer to the pivot point. Make sure no binding occurs at full travel.

Have you flown the plane yet? Even though there doesn't seem to be much travel, 3/8 to 1/2" is more than enough on a trainer. Is it a trainer ? How much travel do you have now ?

It's a Hobbico Hobbistar 60, great flyer, flown about 10 times. but rolling is slow. The O.S. 65 LA has been a pleasure, no starter just a chicken stick and always the second flip start. I like the realism of slow banking but want to get my feet wet with a little more throw. So lowering the point of contact on the aileron side if I am correct??

Moving it closer to the pivot/bearing. Make changes in small amounts and test fly until happy. It will never be an aerobat.

This is a high-wing trainer. You don't want it to be very aerobatic. Realism has nothing to do with the learning curve. With only 10 flights under your belt, you still need the gentle responses of a basic trainer. I am assuming you have an instructor helping you. I would leave the control throws alone until he tells you that you're competent enough to move up. This is no reflection on your flying ability, but you should stay with slow control responses until you are thoroughly bored with the airplane.

All that being said, now to answer your question: Moving the linkage farther out on the servo arm or closer in on the control horn will increase throw and decrease available torque. It will also maximize any slop in the control system. The ideal setup is equal arm/horn length.

Dr.1

CAUTION: Removing the baffle in your muffle could and probably will result in more dead stick landings due to insufficient fuel pressure. I tried this on my first plane and I couldn't figure out why it kept dying!

The backpressure from the muffle keeps the fuel pressur up to an acceptable level. I would also recommend a one-way valve between the tank & carb to keep pressure up.

As all said above on more throw.... It'll give you a bit more roll... But it is a trainer
On the baffle.... I remove all of my baffles so far with no problems... But on one
of my planes that I first had my 46fx on it would not hold enough tank pressure, so
the baffle went back in, same engine on another plane and no problems.. Guess it's
a try and see if it will works kind of thing As you first try it, after take-off get up high
above and within the runway and give it an all out test to see if it's doing ok...
I've also enlarged the exhaust pipe+ with no problems.... But if you over do it, you
may need a new muffler For what you gain, and want it for..... Well you have to
be the judge on that.........

2 ways to get more aileron throw..

Attach the pushrod out farther on the servo arm. THis increases throw but it also decreases the mechanical advantage and creates more wear and tear on you servo in the long run..

Move the pushrod in closer to the control horn at the aileron. This increases throw without overly compromising mechanical advantage.

General rule of setup. Never go out any farther on the servo arm or any closer in on the control horn than you absolutely must. This will give you maximum leverage and resolution.
When you are setting up, always start close in on the servo arm and on the farthest hole on the control horn. Measure deflection and gradually work the control horn in until you get the throw you want on the highest rate you have set for that control/set of control surface(s). Really try to avoid moving the pushrod out any farther then necessary on the servo arm out unless it is absolutely necessary to get the throw you need or to keep the pushrod from hitting the control surface at any point in the defection. If you cant get the throw you need at the farthest out point on the servo you really need to look into what you have done to decrease the servos leverage. My point is, if you get out too far on the servo arm you lose leverage and it becomes very easy for a servo to strip in flight or just flat not have the power/leverage to hold the servo at the deflection you are asking for under a wind load.


I know that is more than you asked.. But it is really appropriate information since the question the original poster asked can have negative consequences if these issues arent taken into consideration. [] I tried to keep it simple, just for general information purposes. But if you want more detail there is more to it and it really pays off to understand this stuff when you start setting up your own airplanes once you go beyond trainers.