Hey guys I posted on here a week ago about having trouble re-starting my motor (super tigre GS-40) after running it, well now it wont start at all ive tried everything changed the glow plug, and richened the needle settings and it just wont start I prime it just as the factory says in the instructions everytime I dont no what is wrong with it I messed with in for an hour and it just wont fire, it did putt one time but then after that it went right back to being dead as ever I dont no what to do any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like your glow driver is dead, if you just toss it in your field box it can short out easily in pretty short order...test that first , pull the glow plug out and stick in the end of the driver/igniter and make sure it glows pretty brightly...Rog

the plug glows bright orange.

Look into the carburetor and verify the throttle is opened just a little beyond the closed position. Don't try to start the engine with the throttle fully or almost wide opened. Also, make sure your fuel source is O.K., that is, no air leaks or kinks in the fuel line. You should be able to create a partial vacuum by sucking on the fuel supply line while blocking the vent line with your finger or by kinking it. Then release one of the lines and you should hear a "whoosh" sound caused by air entering the tank.

DaveB

You're going to have to go back to square one and assume EVERYTHING is screwed up. We WILL assume you have checked the plug and that it is good or that you have a fresh one installed and that the glow driver is OK, I'm leaving it in your hands to take care of that.
If you don't have an electric starter, get one. Buy or borrow it for a couple of days. Take the fuel line OFF the carb. We're going to make SURE the engine is dry to have a KNOWN starting point. Connect the glow ignitor and set throttle to mid-throttle and spin the starter a couple of times. Just enough to make sure engine is dry. Remove glow battery. Close high speed mixture needle valve and then open it 2 - 2.5 turns or as specified in the manual. Fill tank and connect all lines to appropriate places. Open carb fully and place finger over carb inlet. Flip prop CCW as viewed from front of plane until you see fuel in carb line reach the carb and then 2 more. Set throttle to what would be considered a "high idle" position which would mean 1/16-1/8 opening of carb. Attach glow ignitor to plug. use elec starter to start. This SHOULD produce a running engine. I'm sure it will require additional tuning from this point but take it easy and don't make radical changes.

one more thing to check make sure that you have the proper fuel line hooked to the engine if you have the vent connected instead of the draw line then you will not be able to start. I saw this happen before

Hi!
It's simple! If your glowplugs glows...there is fuel comming to the carb... and there is good compression and no airleak....your engine can't say no! It just has to start!
So check the above.

It ain't that simple. Engines is like wimmin and they don't go by common sense, no how. Too much fuel, too little fuel, foamy fuel, too much air, not enough air.

Start from zero. Close the throttle and GENTLY screw the mix needle in all the way closed (righty-tighty) and back it out 4 to 4-1/2 turns (that's the factory pre-set for the GS-40. I just looked it up). If you messed with the idle mix screw - you're on your own. Don't move one of those more than 1/8 turn at a time and only under dire circumstances.

My ST G-51 likes to start at about three turns out and then I lean it out to about 4 turns for normal running. Watch you don't flood 'em. With an electric starter it's easy to do. I stick a piece of folded over tape on the needle so I can see where it is. ST doesn't give you the option of bending a wire so you can judge turns easily.

R

I'll bet you have junk in your fuel port. Take the carb off, take the needle out, cover the top opening of the carb with your finger and blow into the bottom opening, forcing air out the fuel tap and the needle valve.

Swish in fuel, repeat. Swish in fuel, repeat. Swish in fuel, repeat.

N

If you really want to see if the spray bar/needle is blocked there is a lot easier way than taking everything apart. Open the carb all the way, turn the plane into such a position that the carb air inlet faces down (to avoid flooding) connect a fuel line from a hand pump to the carb fuel inlet and start pumping. Fuel should come pouring out of the carb. If not, either it is blocked or the needle is closed. Don't take stuff apart if you don't have to. Just one more oportunity to screw something up.

Have not read if you have had success or not? Flew my plane with my ST3250, last week, died in mid-air and since then unable to restart. Doing all I know to do, would not restart. Engine although felt like it had compression, it didn't have the kick-back I am normally use to. Pulled head and looks like some slight scouring. Sent to Hobby Services for check-out, since engine only three months old. Hopefully you found something cheaper than this!

Also pressure check your tank. I like to pull both lines (or all three if you use a 3 line system, but I'll assume 2 line for now). Now pinch the carb line off and blow in to the vent and pinch it off while you are blowing. You've now pressurized the tank and are holding the air pressure in there. If you release the carb line, and have fuel or something in the tank, you should get a jet of fuel out. If the fuel doesn't squirt out then you have a pinched fuel line or a pressure leak or something obstructing fuel delivery to the engine.

Gentlemen.

I have an OS 120 surpass that I bought about 5 years ago. I stopped flying before I could install the engine in an Ugly stick 60.
I have since started flying again and have another Ugly sick this time the giant. I built a test bed in order to break in the engine, I was able to get it to run for about 30 seconds, just enough time to get over to the other side of the engine just as it stops. This has happened several times. I checked the glow plug and the driver, that`s not the problem. I have backed the needle valve out the two turns indicated in the manual and cracked the throttle as indicated. I have repeated the processes several times each with the same results. Unfortunately, I am not at home, but visiting in Florida, and I do not have my electric starter to make it easy. Any Ideas??

Thanks in advance

Larry

Hi!
Fill the tank....Then blow trough the pressure line going to the tank....if fuel gets to the carb and trough the carb into the engine...the engine can't say no top starting (povided the glo plug is good, should be an OS F plug).
But ...if the engine has been sitting for as long as 5 years...and has been run on Castor oil..then you must probably change ball bearings.

Sorry Jan but I completely disagree here. Castor is a marvellous preservative and even after it's gone all gummy over many years it's still preserving the bearings. However, the gummy feel can make it seem like the bearings are rusted where in fact it's just tiny balls of gum making the bearings feel graunchy. Filling the crankcase with fuel and working the crankshaft around can slowly dissolve the gum but I prefer to take the bearings out and give them a good clean.

For an engine that's hard to start when there doesn't appear to be anything wrong (plug works fine, it's got compression, no junk in the needle valves etc) the first thing I do is to open the main needle so I know it's very rich, give it a reasonable prime then start it at full throttle. That eliminates any problem with the idle setting. With the glow ignitor connected an engine will keep running extremely rich so you have plenty of time to lean it out to a better mixture before going back towards idle to check that setting.