. . . who have always wanted to know how to build a flight box.

Here we are with a different kind of build, this thread is about building my new Sig Field Boss flight box. All the parts are die-cut which makes it very simple and the parts fit perfect.

Photos 4 - 6 show the box base (bottom), upright rear panel, and the two vertical handle supports glued and clamped together. I am using a simple Elmer’s white glue for the build, which dries clear and very strong.

I started to build my flight box as the left wing panel of my Tower Trainer 40 is still in the drying stage. Hopefully I will be able to post the updated pics in that build thread by later tonight.

Does anyone know of any wood stain that is fuel-proof? I really would like to stain this instead of painting. But I was told that staining shows the wood grains and I don’t wanna see that. So if staining is out, what fuel-proof paint is good for field boxes? Does Rustoleum make a wood stain? Rustoleum is fuel-proof.

i think a dark stain would look good

maybe you could find a fuel proof clear paint to go over the stain if you decide to go that route

Place the assembly flat on its back. Glue top shelf in place between the two vertical handle supports and pressed against the rear panel, making sure the two rear tabs engage the slots in the rear panel. Apply glue ONLY to the rear edge of the top shelf at this time.

After first trial-fitting the box front panel into position onto the box bottom, vertical handle supports and the top shelf. Take your time to align all surfaces so that all points contact each other squarely. Remove the front panel and apply glue to the edges of all contact points, then reposition the front panel back into place. Make sure that the panel remains firmly in place while drying.

Turn the assembly upside down on the workbench. You should be able to look inside to see where the top shelf meets the inner sides of the vertical handle supports. Apply a bead of Elmer’s glue to each of these joints. Don’t be too stingy with applying the glue, remember that Elmer’s dries clear, and I want a firm build throughout.

Tomorrow I will start with the next step – which shall be the drawer supports. Good night for now.

I used a med stain on my Sig box. Then coated it with some polyurethane. The stain really looks good. But stain won't work if there is ANY CA glue on it, but it was only in one spot I didn't see till it was too late. The burned edges from the laser cutting stained really well also. If I sanded any of the burned edges away, I used a wood carving iron to burn it back. Worked great.
Be sure to show some pics when ya done.
On a side note. I built the Sig Mini fieldbox, the one with the seperate battery box. One panel that should of had 2 keyholes cut in it only had one. Contacted Sig about a new panel, they had it to me within the week. No costs to me of course.
Now that is great customer service!

I am not using any CA in this build at all, just Elmer's white glue. Thank you for that bit of info.

A good polyurethane top coat should fuel proof everything just fine, regardless of what stain you use. Minwax makes some good spray on and wipe on polyurethane products. I personally prefer the wipe on for furniture projects. I'm not sure how the ply will take a stain either, you may want to test an inside area first. If it absorbs the stain unevenly, use a pre-stain treatment. Also, I prefer oil based stains over water based; they are easier to work with and give better results in my opinion.

It looks like you are using white glue. It will probably be just fine but Titebond wood glue may be a better choice. Titebond-2 might even be a good idea since it is water resistant. This is just my opinion of course.

Most hardware stores should have the Minwax wipe on poly. I buy mine from a local mom & pop place but I've seen it at Home Depot. It's available in 2 different sized cans. I usually use a piece of an old t-shirt to wipe it on since that is relatively lint free. The first coat will look like crap but don't get discouraged. Apply 3-4 coats, hitting it with steel wool or 400 grit paper in between. The finish will turn out great. As for the stain, I like Varethane brand oil based. Again, test it on an area that isn't visible and use a pre-stain treatment if you have to. At one time I used to do a lot of woodworking projects, now I'm just hooked on airplanes. You might also look at www.rockler.com they're the Tower Hobbies of the woodworking world.

As for the tightbond, you just have to make sure you get any squeeze out with a damp rag or sponge and you'll have no problems. The white glue should work well for you too so it's not really a big issue. I've know guys to build all sorts of things with Elmers white glue; I just prefer working with the yellow stuff.

Maybe I'll head down to the hardwood place and pick up some cherry or birds eye maple and make a really cool flight box. If I get back into the woodworking and planes though my girlfriend would never see me. She'd probably kill me.

One other thing... usually the pres stain is specific to the type of stain you are using, either water or oil based. Make sure you use the right one.

I used Minwax one step stain and poly. You can wipe it on. Use a brush, a rag, your finger, whatever.

Very nice-looking field box Kmot. I am looking for a stain a bit darker than that - something like cherry or similar.

I have a question. After seeing Kmot's box and how great it came out - is there a way for me to add removable cradles on my Sig box? Diagrams and pics would be great if possible.

Thank you!!!

The MinWax is great to work with. It's what I surfaced my build table (hollow door) with. It gets glue and stuff on it during a build so I just sand it down and recoat it. Good as new. MinWax come in gloss and satin finishes too if I remember right. I put mine on with a foam brush and light sanded between coats. I don't remember if it comes in dark stains or not but I'm sure you can purchase some pigment to add and make it darker or maybe the store will even do it for you for free like they do house paint. Check with the store, Lowes or Home Depot or many more I'm sure.

But are you sure MinWax/polyurethane is somewhat fuelproof?

Would something like Ultracote clear paint over wood stain work out?

MinWax Polycrylic is fuel resistant/proof for up to 20% nitro. Many guys use this for final (clear) finish on their planes and for fiberglassing planes instead of epoxy.

Polyurethanes are generally considered fuel proof. I've heard of people using it to seal firewalls and tank compartments although I've never done it myself.

tigerdude:

http://www.minwax.com/products/onest...ades-color.cfm

I'm surprised your Sig box did not come with the cradles? Anyway, they should be easy to make. My field box is the Goldberg Monster tote and it did not come with any plan sheets. It only came with a construction manual.

Tiger, it would be a simple matter to add removable cradles to your tote. Just do a little improvising after studying some of the other totes on the market.

As much as I would like to have cradles on my box I don't wanna chance ruining the job I have accomplished on it thus far. I will study some designs on flight boxes when I can find the pics and after seeing some I will have to decide then. Thank you!!!

I have found that most boxes are too short between the uprights to be of any use as a cradle. It is too narrow to fit around the wing chord of most planes. therefor I just build a separate stand to set on the ground or on a table.

Tiger = what is the distance between your uprights? Should be about the same as drawer width or handle length.

Yes bruce, the distance between the uprights are the same as the drawer and handle width = exactly 1 foot apart.

PHOTOS 1 & 2) With the box upright and facing forward, install the six 1/2”x1/2”x 11” drawer supports into their respective tabs in the rear panel. Using a triangle, glue the front ends of the drawer supports 1 ½” in from the drawer side openings of the front panel. Repeat for the opposite side drawer supports. Make sure that the drawer supports are NOT obstructing the drawer openings to insure proper drawer clearance and operation.

PHOTO 3) Locate the right end panel (battery panel). This panel has a cut-out for the power panel. Also locate the battery divider panel. Glue the battery divider panel in place on the INSIDE face of the battery panel. Locate the left end panel (fuel panel) and the fuel divider panel. Glue the fuel divider panel in place on the INSIDE face of the fuel panel.

PHOTO 4) The battery end panel/battery divider assembly is next glued in place (after completely dry) on the right side of the flight box, being sure to engage each tab, ensuring full contact at all joints. I modified the battery compartment (near the grille end in the front) and put the small compartment at the front of the box instead of the back, and I am going to place the 12volt battery on its side to store it so that I have more storage space in the other compartment. I trimmed and sanded the battery cover to size to fit over the now-smaller battery compartment. Now I have more space in the back-facing compartment to store my glass-cleaner and paper towels.

PHOTOS 5 & 6) Then the fuel end panel/fuel divider assembly is glued in place (after completely drying) on the left side of the flight box, being sure to engage each tab, ensuring full contact at all joints.
Had to bolt the hand crank for my Dave Brown Pour ‘N’ Pump fueling system as it would not fit into the fuel compartment. But that works out better because the Velcro fastener that held it on to the can kept slipping down anyway.

PHOTO 7) The 1/4" diameter x 12 1/2" handle dowel glued securely in place between the two vertical handle support panels.

What else can I put in the power panel opening besides the usual power panel?
I would like to get this because it's the best one out there I think, and it would look real good on the flight box.
But - I already purchased my glowplug ignitor, fuel pump system (pictured above) and my 12volt starter (not panel ready).
Should I still purchase and install the power panel with the belief I will upgrade???
Or is there something else that would fit there that would be equally as useful and look good there?

Tiger - in photo #7 did you mean 3/4" handle and not 1/4 as printed?

Pump is good where you have it. Can doesn't have to come out for fueling this way.