sORRY FOR THE TYPO - that should have read 1 1/4" diameter. Thank you for pointing that out bruce.

Yes, I like the fuelcan setup myself, the foam itself is somewhat fuelproof also (to a point of course). Now I just need a longer-reaching filling line. There is one that recoils I heard, I think I'll get that.

PHOTO 1: The two 11" length x 3/4" square hardwood standoffs are now glued to the bottom of the fight box.

PHOTOS 2, 3 & 4: The first drawer (top) is now completed. Had to do a bit of filing to get it to slide smoothly.

PHOTO 5: The Minwax Polyshades stain and polyurethane one-step I plan on using. I wanted a slightly darker look so I am going with a Olde Maple Satin stain.

QUESTION: Although the stain is a one-step formula will I need a wood conditioner (also made by Minwax) to soften the wood to make a better, more even color-tone? Or is the stain enough?

tigerdude, you are doing a fine job! Your flight box is really taking shape! (oh wait, that's a pun! )

A couple tips: be sure you sand your flight box down using progressivley finer sand paper. Then apply your Minwax. Let dry thoroughly and use steel wool on it (fine grit wool) and scuff it up slightly. Then apply a second coat of Minwax. Be sure to let it dry 24 hours before you handle it.

To answer your question about the wood conditioner, you only need it if your wood is so soft that it tends to soak up too much stain and make it look 'splotchy'. What you should do, is apply the Minwax to the back side of a drawer, an area you normally wont see. And also, maybe the underside of a draw. Just test it on an inconspicous area that won't normally be visible. If it doesn't look good, you can always get the conditioner. But in most cases, you won't need it on any kind of plywood or hardwood.

That must be why they call it "One Step".

Box is doing good and should look fine in stain. Remember to sand it like it was a piece of fine furniture BEFORE staining.

Tigerdude,

I don't want to discourage you as a new participant this fine hobby, but I have some information that may be of use. I built that exact box. I spent hours making it furniture quality, lined the drawers with cork and really did a nice job. I found it to be heavy, cumbersome and too darned big. It's a great box...more than you will EVER need....unless you intend to build at the field or open a mobile hobby-shop.

I fly almost every day and I have learned to travel light. (TX case, cheap duffel bag and a cup of coffee). I used to come to the field prepared to fix almost anything. Then I stopped damaging planes...after I learned to control them all the way to the runway.

Enjoy building that box. It's a fine one...probably the best with one or two exceptions. I just think it will end-up on your workbench in less than a year...just too big.

Don't get discouraged. A big, well made flight box is a thing of beauty and something to be proud of. Lots of guys like to keep things minimalistic, that doesn't mean you have to.

My flight box weighs 35 pounds, with empty drawers. So what? I can handle it.

A field charger is about the same size as a power panel and is a useful item. If your starter has alligator clips, you can install some simple terminals to connect the wires. Or you can replace the clips with a plug and install a receptacle to plug it into.

Tiger - your starter may not be panel ready but all you need to do is put a pair of these on the end of the wires.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL363&P=7

Your local electronics store should also carry them (Radio Shack).

Oh no, requires soldering . I've never been very good at soldering

Lots of Flux. and tin your ends. Then more flux. On small stuff I use a electronics liquid flux. You can dip the ends right in a small container.

Just my 2 cents

P.S. Super looking box. I keep playing with the idea of making one from scratch. But I think I'll wait till I get a little seasoned and see how much cra... (stuff) I end up taking into the field.

See ya

Del

If you go to Radio Shack or other electronics store they should have some solderless plugs also. That was just an example.

OKAY, thank you bruce. I think I will be ordering an electric panel. But what do I do with the electric fuel-pump connections on the panel? I already have the Dave Brown hand-crank filling system

I also heard that many electric fueling systems leak? I need a backup glowplug ignitor anyway so I would like a panel-ready, and I will have the battery-powered ignitor backup for when I have to go out to the field to restart .

So everything but the fuelpump connections would be used, two out of three ain't bad

OR JUST MAYBE THIS IS A VERY GOOD POSSIBILITY:
Is it my understanding that this charger will basically charge ALL batteries?: TX, RX, electric, 12volt
How about my glowplug ignitor?

Just stare at the pump connections and say "MY, how pretty"

Some mechanical pumps also develop leaks.

I haven't been able to see a lot of the inserts you have been posting lately for some reason. Links may be a better option, at least for me. Portable glow ignitors come with their own wall-wart chargers usually. Some power panels have an ignitor charger connector also.

The final two drawers are glued together. Gotta file them down next so that they slide in the drawer openings.

Sand the drawers so they fit just a bit loose they will swell in higher humidity and you will not be able to open or close them this summer when you need to. And to keep them from coming open here is a simple way to secure them. Just drill a 1/4" hole in the top near the front left of the box and in each drawers bottom and box bottom. Make sure all five holes are lined up so you can insert a 1/4" dowel with a handle on it into each hole locking the drawers this will keep them shut in travel.

agexpert,
I’d take my whole darn shop to the field if I could no such thing as to big of flight box! I’d rather have something I need with me then to be without it. Perhaps you fly from your back yard some of us however drive many miles to the field and a simple run home for a tool is not an option. You remind of those guys that never bring what they need for a properly maintained rc airplane and always wish to borrow it form another guys well stocked heavy flight box. Guess it’s a good thing some of us still have the mobile hobby-shop for guys like you lol.

I'll work on a set of drawings for removable adjustable plane cradles for this large Sig box. Please let me know if there is any others wanting this be glad to help.

Thank you sticktickler. Hope it's simple enough that even non-engineer guys like myself can build it , I may do well with airplane kits and my first flight-box here but designing and building something from scratch has never been attempted by me . Can't wait to see what you come up with.

Ok here we go firstly the JPEG drawing file may not be to scale you can print it on your printer or take the file to Kinko’s for a full scale print. A DXF file that will be to scale is also available upon request let me know. You will need the scale printout of the parts for a cutout pattern . All the parts are cut from ½� or 3/8� heavy duty ply. The fasteners are all 1/4x20 bolts and wing nuts see pics. This could not be easer to build just follow my plans and pics. Mounting the cradles this way on the box will give a much wider spread for any 60 size plane.

Thank you for the design, it looks simple enough. Unfortunatly I do not have a Kinko's anywhere near me, and I do not have a scroll saw or other means of cutting the parts. I will be buying a jigsaw fairly soon, can that be used to cut the parts? If you were to build something like that for someone what would you charge?

Thank you again for the very impressive plans you designed. I love'em.

Steve

Tigerdude,
You can cut out things like this with a handheld coping saw. Just take your time and you won't have any problems with it.

Ken

i like that field box

Yes, a jig saw can do it. For the slots you will want to drill a hole at each end to lower the blade into and THEN turn it on. The slots MUST be closed on the ends like shown for strength.(in case you were wondering)
I would draw it out on the wood and cut the slots first for ease of handling, then cut the remainder from the sheet.

I'll cut-em out for you for $30.00 if you like.

Sounds great, how would we arrange payment though? I really do believe you can cut this design out better than I could ever have a prayer to
I am not very good at all at cutting sophisticated designs such as those pieces out of thick ply sheets. I do OK with kit pieces but that is in a much smaller scale

P.M me if you wish with the details.

Thank you again.