hi guys

i jsut want to know what your opinions are on the following kit:

Futaba 6EXAP
Hangar 9 - Alpha 40 trainer
Ripmax RMX .40 engine (its cheap and chearful so i may aswell give it a chance)
Model Technics Qwikfire 10% nitro fuel (ive heard bad things about it from the Trucks but is it any Better in Planes?)
And also, will my Engine work with a 11x6 Zinger prop (Curtosy of JPgale)

if the above stated equipment is not suitable, can you suggest one that is?

Foamy,
Everything you listed are great choices, with the exception of the prop. I would suggest that you get a prop that can stand up to a little bit if "punishment". Pick up a couple of Master Airscrew props, IMHO they hold up better for beginner pilots. Trust me here, you will ding up the prop as you learn!!!!!

Other than that everything else is an excellent choice.

Ken

im sure i will take a few chunks out of the prop as i learn, thing is im limited to what i can get over here which is usually Graupner or APC (Another Perfect Cut)

APC props won't take the kind of abuse a Master Airscrew prop will but would be better then a wood zinger. Dull the edges a bit and don't stick you fingers in the prop and you should be fine. 10/6 would be the standard prop for a .40 but 11/6 will work.

Good choices,,,, no wodden props through.
APC are very good props they are all I fly. master airscrew is a better choice for a student.

There isn't anything particularly wrong with wooden props, they're just more likely to break than nylon props. I'd also recommend you go for an 11x5 instead of 11x6, it's not a huge difference but keeping the thrust down on a trainer is a good thing.

The airframe you selected is a great one, the engine is a good one, and the radio system you selected is a great choice, too. If all we have to discuss is your choice of propellers, I'd have to say I think you're on the right track.

Wooden props? who ever said they were wooden?

these are black plastic and look pretty tough, i will try it and see how i go but im nre where i can find a MA prop over here

As far as proformance, do plastic and wood have any difference? Lets say Im getting a Hobbico Avistar for a trainer, and im going to buy an extra prop, when i buy it. Should I get an extra [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000681020&I=LXHY24&P=K]Top Flite[/link], which it comes with or an [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX1547&P=7]APC[/link]?

And If im a beginner and trying to keep costs down, should I still get a prop balancer?

No APC props on trainers or tail draggers with inexperienced pilots, one prop strike and you can toss them in the trash, same with wood props. You get a better idle with a composite prop anyway, it's heavier and acts like a flywheel, engine doesn't loose as many RPM between combustion strokes thus a smoother idle.

The most durable training prop is the black Master Airscrew, and don't bother using the pretty spinner that comes with the plane, use a "spinner-nut" (looks like a round nose aluminum bullet with a hex on the back) because it makes maintenance at the field much faster and easier.

Remember, a trainer is a tool to teach you to fly so keep it simple and the more complicated you make your training the more aggravated you make your instructor....[:@]

Carlos (X instructor) Murphy

Never heard of that fuel?..but if it is trouble in trucks it will be worse in airplanes you need a good %20 oil in an airplane engine anything less is bad news...cars/trucks will run as low as %12-18 oil....that wont work in airplane engines..%10 nitro is fine, but check the oil content...I fly 1/2a and we run %25-35 nitro but always %22 oil and at least 1/2 of that is castor oil....Rog

I though I read APC was good for beginners. O well, Ill check out Master Airscrew.

Whats the difference between these two... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZ965&P=7 and http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAA21&P=7 . Which should I get? And do these need to be balanced? And do I need one of those reamers under the required section? Would a normal drill be fine?

I don't think you will notice a difference between the props other than the shape. One has straight blades and the other "simitar" curved blades.

You should always balance them (although I never do)

Reamer is much better. Cleaner, straight hole. Believe it or not common drills don't make round holes, not truly round anyway.

Do most engines have a metric or standard crankshaft size? Im getting a .40 LA with my trainer combo, so which is that?

There is a BIG difference in performance between some prop brands, APC gives you the best performance of all props while at the same time being the least durable and due to it's design the most dangerous.

When I started flying many years ago and didn't know the difference between props I always has a assortment in my flight box, as my supply would dwindle (all the same size) and I would change from one brand to another I could note a big difference between some brands (one being slower than the other) and eventually weaned out the weak ones to where I use mostly APC and Master A-S.

On the same note, don't buy cheap glow plugs, they too play a big part in performance AND longevity, Enya #3 and OS-F plugs as well as some others will cost you more but give you better and more reliable performance.

Use a nitro and synthetic oil based fuel, again, better performance AND better idle. Real castor oil makes a mess out of your plane, very hard to clean.

It varies by brand.
OS 40LA = Crankshaft Thread Size: 1/4-28

UPDATE:

dumped the RMX .40 engine and got myself a Irvine .40 with a 9.5x5 prop (for £25 :P)

and also:

i followed the advice my instructor gave me and got myself a PC simulator and dedicated dummy TX, not bad for £12 from ebay, should be flying in no time

also went and checked out the field, looks nice but there was nobody down there as it wasnt a meeting day

how does £ convert to Us currency?......just interested in how much you got these items for.

From Google

Ken