I'm assembling a Phoenix Extra 300S. The supplied fuel tank doesn't match the picture in the manual. Isn't the stopper supposed to fit inside the hole in the firewall with some silicone sealer? This tank has a lip on the bottom and does not allow the tank to fit right.

Something does not look right with your tank. I am thinking that the stopper needs to go in a bit further. The lip on the tank is designed so that you cannot shove the tank forward and pinch your fuel lines. In your case, it is not going to allow you to put the stopper and fuel lines in the hole. There are still tanks available that will allow you to fit the stopper into the hole, or you can use the one that you have and cover the hole. Good Luck, Dave

I agree with David; the stopper should have a small lip on it and it fits into the tank all the way to the lip. There's a backplate that will be inside the tank and the cap that goes outside the tank. Both have holes for the brass tubing to pass through, plus a center hole for the screw that secures the plug.

As far as the hole in the firewall goes, I'd plug it with a thick piece of balsa and epoxy over it, which will fill the hole in and fuelproof it. Then drill a couple of small holes the size of your fuel tubing in the balsa plug; smear a bit of silicone around them to seal the holes against glow fuel.

Dave's right, something doesn't look right with that stopper. The tank at first glance looks like a Dubro tank, but it you look at the photo closely, there is a fuel line nipple molded in just above the bung and the the flange on the bung hole has whas looks like an outside ring to seal something. Also, the rubber bung has a huge lip at the edge of the tank. Different than any tank setup I've seen.

To get the real answer on the tank, how about removing it and removing the bung and fuel pickups and taking some photos of them and post them. Then we can advise a bit better. Garland is correct that the bung will not go through the firewall and it would be best to plug that hole and and then drill for just the brass fuel lines to go through the firewall.

Don

I didn't install the stopper completely on the tank yet. I really don't know what that nipple above the opening is. The only other two planes I've had the stopper fit into the hole with the tank against the firewall sealed with fuelproof silicone.

The extra nipple is there if you decide you want to open it and use it for pressurizing the tank. It's normally sealed. Most pressurize with a line through the bung.

What about something like this? Does the stopper have to fit in the hole in the firewall?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU42&P=0

I agree with David,

in my plane (sealing tank compartment now) the black seal of the tank is much closer to the tank.

im pulling silicon tubes from the tank thords the fire wall, which has two tube diameter holes in it.

i had this kind of seal in my hobbico starfire, but it was going through the firewall, the tank didnt have the lip/chin.

its possible you got the wrong parts in tank kit.

is the tank with this black part sealed?

Alex

I just put the tank sitting there to take the picture. the stopper assembly is not completely on the tank yet. I just wanted to illustrate the tank in there with the lip stopping the tank stopper from going into the firewall.

what bothers me is the big hole in the fire wall

with these kind of big holes in the fire wall, i know the black cap seal them too, and the tubes and brass pipes sitting in the engine mount.

maybe im wrong...

Alex

I have the same tank in my FourStar. What I did was drill holes in the firewall just big enough for the fuel lines.
For those of you that put silicone around the fuel line, how do you get the lines out if you want to replace them? I was thinking the lines may get rubbed due to vibration so I was going to drill the holes out a little larger then use some rubber grommets to protect the lines.

Make a patch plate of 1/8" lite plywood just a little larger than the firewall hole. Figure out where you want the the fuel lines to be and drill snug holes in appropriate locations in patch plate. If holes are snug, there will be no vibration/chafe issue. Attach patch plate to firewall exterior with med CA or epoxy. Fuel proof area (inside and outside) when done. DONE. Your tank is fine, don't reinvent the wheel. The patch plate I suggested will keep excess fuel residue out of the interior. Pad tank with foam to reduce vibration and keep it where you want it.

In answer to this question.
1.No the stopper does not have to fit into the hole.
2.If you use this style of tank and you don't fit the stopper through the hole it would be a good idea to make a brace from scrap balsa to prevent the tank from sliding too far forward and pinch the fuel lines.
3.If you don't fit the stopper through the hole it is a good idea to seal off the big hole to keep fuel residue from getting inside your fuselage.

Many people do not use tanks that are supplied with Arfs. Depends on how much you value your planes. I throw the tanks away and buy a new one for around $5. Replacements like Sullivan or Hayes are cheap enough,why run the risk?

Bruce88123, that's exactly what I was thinking. The fuel line tubes on this tank are made of, maybe nylon (looks like plastic). That's why I was just going to get the rectangular sullivan tank and be done with it!

Looks like a Hayes tank to me and if it is there is no need to replace it. Hayes are good tanks.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK830&P=ML
If it's a poor copy that could be a different matter.

Yup, there's nothing wrong with the tank. Just improvise. IF you don't want to go into too much detail with it, you could just run the fuel lines through the hole and fill the hole with sealant.

Learning to improvise will get you far in this hobby!

I am sure I am in the minority here but I never seal the hole in the firewall as long as you coat the tank compartment with thinned epoxy some 30 min epoxy with alcohol, brushed into the tank compartment to fuel proof it your fine replacing lines is simpler most of the slime is on the outside of the fuse any way.

To tell you the truth Tim, I rarely seal that hole either.

That's NOT a Hayes tank. Hayes tanks have a small plug for the supply line and two molded-in nipples (one sealed) above it. The plug simply pushes into the hole in the tank with a small metal ring around it.

Dr.1

it looks kike a "Great Planes" tank if it is they work fine I have a couple of them there holding up great,some of the ARF supplied tanks are pretty weak,that one looks like a upgrade from some of the supplied ones I have seen,quite possibly there was some complaints about there origonal item so they changed it in the kit,but not the instructions its pretty common.

Hey bigtim, use that "period" key on the keyboard a little more often. I almost passed out trying to read you posts all in one breath. Whew.

I have seen worse though.[:@]

Bruce you can hesitate, and catch a little breath at the commas.

I can? Thank God, because I doubt we'll change bigtim.

I don't need periods because I talk fast,its stream of consiousness fellas. when you chase 2 boys around the house on a Sat. you don't have time for periods.
Tim doesn't change unless I really need to,when is that,oh never!