What glue for sheeting???
#1
Thread Starter

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hey,
What glue do u guys use for sheeting balsa to an open frame wing? Some guys have told me CA thick and other Great planes wood glue.
Cheers
What glue do u guys use for sheeting balsa to an open frame wing? Some guys have told me CA thick and other Great planes wood glue.
Cheers
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (15)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: va beach,
VA
if you are sheeting both top and bottom of the wing,i use ca on one side because you have access to the underside to apply the ca then white/wood glue (i use titebond) on the other side and as said here tape pins ect.wood glue tends to cause the sheeting to bow some so make sure you have it pinned taped weighted or whatever is needed to hold it down.
#7
Thread Starter

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Yea, thanks for the help guys.
Im just scratch building a c152 and i was just sheeting the flaps.
Just another question, would a HS-81 have enough torque to control the throttle on a OS46AX?
Cheers
Im just scratch building a c152 and i was just sheeting the flaps.
Just another question, would a HS-81 have enough torque to control the throttle on a OS46AX?
Cheers
#8
I use either Elmer's Carpenters Glue or Tite Bond II for almost all my building. Aliphatic resin glues sand a lot better than CA will and give you time to work.
An HS-81 will work, even an HS-55 will work fine for the throttle servo since there is no real torque required to rotate the throttle barrel.
Hogflyer
An HS-81 will work, even an HS-55 will work fine for the throttle servo since there is no real torque required to rotate the throttle barrel.
Hogflyer
#10

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Jacksonville, FL
Ok Bruce why not white glue? after a crash that did not involve a wing my daughter jumped on the wing and jumped off, the wing flattened out and sprung back up. used white glue on everything except the spars.
#11
Thread Starter

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hey,
Thanks for all the info!!!
Once the plane is finished, what methods are there of covering it??
The 3 that i know of are glassing, fabric and dope, and monokote. I dont like monokote cause it always wrinkles in the sun. I want a covering that is easy to put on and that i can spray paint with out worrying about the paint coming off. Ive been told the glassing is hard and adds a bit of weight so i dont really want to do that.
Cheers
Thanks for all the info!!!
Once the plane is finished, what methods are there of covering it??
The 3 that i know of are glassing, fabric and dope, and monokote. I dont like monokote cause it always wrinkles in the sun. I want a covering that is easy to put on and that i can spray paint with out worrying about the paint coming off. Ive been told the glassing is hard and adds a bit of weight so i dont really want to do that.
Cheers
#12

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Jacksonville, FL
if monokote is applied correctly it wont wrinkle in the sun. it may lossen a bit the first trip to the field but a heat gun will tighten it up.
Monokote is by far the easiest.
Monokote is by far the easiest.
#13
You can also try a low temp covering like Ultracoat.
As for gluing skins onto a frame, there's the iron on technique which works quite well. Apply an even coat of alphatic resin or PVA glue (carpenters glue) to all the ribs and spars. Apply an even coat to the skins where it will meet the ribs and spars. Let the glue dry BEFORE assembly (about an hour). Place the skin into position and use a covering iron to "reactivate" the glue. Once the glue is heated, the bond is almost instant like contact cement.
Scott
As for gluing skins onto a frame, there's the iron on technique which works quite well. Apply an even coat of alphatic resin or PVA glue (carpenters glue) to all the ribs and spars. Apply an even coat to the skins where it will meet the ribs and spars. Let the glue dry BEFORE assembly (about an hour). Place the skin into position and use a covering iron to "reactivate" the glue. Once the glue is heated, the bond is almost instant like contact cement.
Scott
#14
I used a small servo on a 60 size plane and yes it will easily have enough torque to operate but I had a hard time getting enough throw to get the full range out of the throttle due to the short servo arms. I managed to make a longer arm but I won't use small servos again, not worth it to me!! [>:]
#15

ORIGINAL: jetmech05
Ok Bruce why not white glue? after a crash that did not involve a wing my daughter jumped on the wing and jumped off, the wing flattened out and sprung back up. used white glue on everything except the spars.
Ok Bruce why not white glue? after a crash that did not involve a wing my daughter jumped on the wing and jumped off, the wing flattened out and sprung back up. used white glue on everything except the spars.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Collect some old phone books from your friends; they make great weights for sheeting. I use weldbond glue for nearly everything.
#17

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Jacksonville, FL
ok bruce thats different than white glue should not be used. the last kit i did was over 2 1/2 years old with well over 150 flights on her. never had a problem.
#18
i will only use monocote on an airplane im building becuase if i crash or my retracts stick, its easy to patch fiber glas would hold but paint may crack and the doping could break, rip and its harder to repair, my friend lost hi landing gear on hid doped plane and it cost him $560 to fic the covering becuase he couldnt do it himself. My opinion tho.
#19

My Feedback: (13)
sheeted the top of my P-47 wing with tite bond what a pain in the rear, thick or med CA works well for me.
after sheeting one side I had to go back and reglue a bunch of areas.
the other side came out perfect using med. CA all the compound curves came out perfect unlike the other side which was a mess all distorted and full of pin holes a learning experience tite bond is a great adhesive, I am not so sure for where you need fast tack and a solid grab like sheeting a wing.
if you are planking a fuse then your better off using tite bond/wt.glue where you have to sand alot, CA doesn't sand unless you break out the heavy grit paper.
its about building style I would think.
after sheeting one side I had to go back and reglue a bunch of areas.
the other side came out perfect using med. CA all the compound curves came out perfect unlike the other side which was a mess all distorted and full of pin holes a learning experience tite bond is a great adhesive, I am not so sure for where you need fast tack and a solid grab like sheeting a wing.
if you are planking a fuse then your better off using tite bond/wt.glue where you have to sand alot, CA doesn't sand unless you break out the heavy grit paper.
its about building style I would think.
#20
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: BONAIRE,
GA
I like the original Titebond glue over the Titebond II, as the Titebond II sands a little rubbery. Both are grate products, I just prefer the original.



