Hey guys Im just now in the process of building my first airplane. (trainer). I have just hinged the ailerons, elevator, rudder with the CA hinges. Like the dirrections said I used the thin stuff, noy is it a mess! It is thinner then water it runs all over the place! Is this a big deal? I just let it harden wherever it drips. Will it just dry fine no problem?

You will need to clean off the excess with de-bonder as it will restrict the movement of the surface. When you apply next try deflect the surface to one side and apply drops to the hinge until it starts to build up. Wait about 10 minutes and move the surface the other direction and then apply drops to the hinge on the other side (it normally doesn't take as many). Allow to cure for another 10 minutes and then flex the hinge for easy motion.

Two very big DO NOT try this:
1. Do not glue the hinges in one surface and then into the other. Once the glue hits the hinge it will flow to the end. If this is then applied to a plane they might come out! I was on the sticks of a new member's trainer when both ailerons parted company of the plane. Landed safely with rudder and elevator but not a fun few minutes.

2. Do not go back and reglue after later. The addition of new CA will cause a build up at the hinge line and can cause enough pressure that the hinge breaks in half causing the surface to part company of the plane.
EXCAP232

I believe acetone may be used in place of debonder??

Exellant advice from EXCAP232 !! I might add that you might try buying Dave Brown CA applicators. You can litterly put one drop of CA out there by easily altering the tip of his applicator. I think the directions are on the pack. Basicaly you grab the tip with pliers and SLOWLY start pulling. You will see the plastic tube start stretching and of course, getting skinny. Before it breaks, stop pulling, and use a #11 and cut it at the skinny part. Walla !!! The tip diameter is now very small. I like the CA hinges with the slot cut into them in the middle, so the glue will be sure to get to the back of the hinge. This may not be necessary..... but it makes ME feel more secure!! .......lownslo..

Bob

I sympathize. Boy, do I sympathize. I am working on my first "modern" kit. I used to be quite good at white glue, lots of balsa stringers, dope and tissue. CA happens a lot quicker than aliphatic resin (aka "white glue"). I resorted back to Aleene's craft glue for the emphennage, but resigned myself to doing the wing with CA if it killed me. And so far it's still a possibility.

The Dave Brown applicators are a big help - I'm having a problem with tip clogs. (NEVER squeeze a CA bottle if it seems to have stopped flowing mid-run. I got a tiny fountain that went straight up at my face). I became quite good at dripping with the D.B. applicator in my right hand and then squirting with the accelerator in my left. Except for the sensation of having my eyes burned out with a soldering gun, it went quite well. I am working on a fully symmetrical wing (Contender) and tacked a few ribs lightly to the wing spar and trailing edge strip, lined everything up square with pins as needed, and then went right across the wing, hitting every joint in turn. It went incredibly fast once I started. There could be a future for this nasty CA stuff. I'll be sheeting the wing tonight. Yeeha!

Charlie P.

Guys (im a noob) and when I was gluing the hinges it made a mess. It got like all over the elevator. I didn't wipe it off as I was scared I'd glue my hand to my plain. It now has hardeben, is it necessary to remove the rough spots it makes?

no need to remove the glue if the controls flex ok.May fly the plane at a distance and keep it covered on the ground because you'll get lots of free advice at the field on how to wipe off excess ca

I went by my kits instructions when it said apply 6 drops of thin CA to both sides of all hinges. After I did then I waited for them to dry and all but I noticed that the surfaces are petty tough to move. Not smooth like hinges. What shoulld I do, I worry they will bind and chatter my servos

that is normal for ca hinges,I'll work the hinges by hand couple of dozen times after the ca sets up to help loosen the hinge line.

I'm building a Greatplanes Spacewalker. I've changed from the CA hinges to 1/4 scale nylon hinges. Should I pin these hinges. Also I have a gap in the elevator. Will this effect the flight characteristics of this plane, and should I seal the gaps. (gaps are about 3/16"). It's my first build (assemble) and got a little to excited and didn't notice.

unless it's a large 3D or hot dog type of plane with large throws I don't generally pin the hinges,use silicon, tape, or one of the films to seal the gap on all controls.MinnFlyer has pictures some where on this forum,do a search if you wish to see them.

As someone mentioned earlier, acetone will remove cured CA.
Just put a little on a tissue and let it sit on the spot a few seconds and rub it off. It won't hurt Monocote or Ultracote, not sure about some ARF's with the wallpaper coverings. I use small disposable syringes for applying thin CA to hinges or screw holes, the amount of glue is very easy to control so none of it goes where it's not wanted. If your quick enough with it you can empty the remaining CA from the syringe and clean it with acetone so you can use it again. The only problem is you'll need to know some one who's a diabetic or works in health care to get your hands on some. As far as the Spacewalker hinge gaps, you can seal them if you prefer but I wouldn't worry about it if the gaps are reasonably tight. If the gaps are 3/16" it might not be a bad idea. I have one myself (normal gaps) and I didn't seal the them, flies just fine. This plane doesn't burn holes in the sky so the gaps are no big deal.

Stang, why not go ahead and pin the hinges and seal the gaps? If you are going to be alive somewhere for a hour or so why not be alive at the building board doing those things....its only time(quality) spent.

Yep, decided to seal and pin. Can't fly in this weather, and I'm still alive. It can't hurt. Thanks for the response.

Just starting to trail fit parts on a UStik120 with the CA hinges with a center slot cut out.
When you pin a hinge into position, do you really just use a 'T' with point and all and stick it in sufficient to penetrate the hinge but not exit the other side of hinge point? Do you drill a tiny lead hole or is it not necessary? Do you try to put any Ca on in the pin/hole when you insert it.

The vertical fin has a poor fit to top of fuse leaving a 32nd to 16th space in aft part of fin. Any thoughts? They instruct to install hor stab before vert fin. If it should be pinned guess you would do thru the hor. What type size of pin material would you use for this type of mod /reconstruct of new contruction?

mikenlapaz 1000 miles to nearest LHS

I hate those CA hinges, since there is ALWAYS some resistance and it's too easy for them to rip out. I use real hinges like the Great Planes hinges shown below. I place a toothpick (or other HARDWOOD) through the entire trailing edge and control surface, then cut it off and sand flush. This is how I was taught to "pin" a hinge. I've never had one let go. The entire trailing edge will rip loose first.

I have a cap 232 66" I was thinking about cutting the ca hinges out and installing a piano hinge the whole length of each aliron..


anyone tried this?????? would seal the gap as well.

I see they make a 25mm or 1" wide x 1mm thick hinge

strato911
Sounds like you are a 'kit' builder. Well, what would your suggestion be to a first timer with covering in place on a ARF?
They did not furnish any experimental hinges so have no idea how tough the material is and just how much the CA stiffens it.!

Any other opinions on using some metal pins as mentioned in my prior post.

If I'm reading right excap232 and lownslo [QUOTE]Two very big DO NOT try this:
1. Do not glue the hinges in one surface and then into the other. Once the glue hits the hinge it will flow to the end.[/ QUOTE]
AND
if you can, get it down into the balsa slot, physically other than relying on just wicking and get all your glueing for a given area project done quickly.

Does this hinge and the wood surrounding it have to be totally saturated to make a proper adhesive contact/ bonding?

I find no cure time on my as yet unopened thin CA, medium- states cured in 20-30 seconds; thick- full cure in about 1-2 minutes.

Does thin cure faster than medium?

Excap232- I'm confused by your warning and your instructions, they seem to be in conflict. With a product that full cure so quickly it would seem that waiting 10 minutes (20 or more full cure times) before going back to do the other side would go against your #2 Warning:

Could you explain your reasoning and timing a little bit further for us totally new to hinges and CA application procedures?

A "CA" hinge is a limination of plastic and a fabric type of material. It is cut into pieces to form the part. The "CA" glue used to install them works with capillary action to penetrate the surface of the hinge and the balsa it is attached to. The glue won't go arond the corner. Will add more to this later.

EXCAP232

I was under the understanding the material that CA hinges are made of SLowwwed the cure time off CA glue.

high humidity would make the cure time very.

Mikenlapaz,

Read this article on installing CA Hinges:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/reviews.ph...ew&reviewid=55

MinnFlyer has hit the nail squarely on the head (as ussual). However, I would like to add one more thing to his instructions. Draw a line down the center of the hinge (parallel to the trailing edge) prior to insering them. That way, if they should move before you glue them, you can see it. The line you draw should be visible at the hinge line at all times.

Dogz - my tests with CA hinges indicates they do not slow the curing time of CA.

mikenlapaz - yes, I am a kit builder (and custom designs as well), but I have had one ARF in my life, and I still used the same pinned hinge technique I mentioned. The toothpick is barely visible where I poked it right through the covering material. If you do pin a hinge through the covering, don't forget to seal it with some thinned epoxy or some CA. You won't see it in the air.

Yes mikenlapaz, thin CA sets even faster than medium, typically 5-10 seconds (except on flesh, thats 0-1 sec).

MinnFlyer, Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, I skimmed one of the other articles as well and hopefully remember where to find them in future.

The trimming the hinge area and the hole for glue access was totally omitted in manuf. instructions.

Adding lownslo comment, re center cutout in hinge, to your center hole seems to be a natural. I'm visualizing a #60 .040" hole to depth of hinge and a covering cutout only the width of the center cutout slot, let it wick to outer edge from the center vs. trying to get it all wicked from actual flex joint area.

Strato911: I like the reference line, would help if you pin before CA application too.

Coming off a boat, my experience is "glue and screw it if it goes to sea". Are there any negative comments about using parts of steel push pins for the 'pinning the hinges'? Does CA stick and seal to the covering materials ( Goldberg something) and metal?

Preping the hinge area is now much clearer and logical. Hope excap232 can clarify the timing routine part.

I see no harm in pinning a CA hinge the same way. As for using steel for pinning the hinge, DON'T. CA does not bond to metal as well as wood because metal is non-porous. CA does bond quite well to covering material.

I think excap232's timing was to do one side of the hinge in both surfaces at the same time, wait several minutes to ensure it has fully set, then flip it over and do the other side. Make sure you apply enough the first time (per side) since you shouldn't re-apply glue to a side which has already been glued. Using thin CA, it will wick to the ends (but not around the corner to the other side) untill full, then it will start to puddle in the middle where you are applying it. That's when you stop. It's been a few years, but I think it will take approx 5-10 drops per side.