would some one tell me the advantages on throw adjustment..will less throw make the plane fly smoother (Alerions) i have bought a war bird and it is real light on the stick

yes and no.
if you have a war bird..then i'm assuming you're TX has a dual rate switch.
low rates, less throw of course....yes in a sense. That's why my extra is hot,
hot but lands like a kitten.lol

No..no wind over control surface = no control.

A lot of new fliers get into trouble becuase they get ahead of themselves
or don't practice those boring proceedure truns or fly at a slower speed.
The controls becomes very slugish. it is where flight theory cames into play.

That's why a nice PC TX is nice to have..you can dial in or out the stick,
making it more or less sensitive, at low rates or high rates or to whatever
feels comfortable to each model. Plus you don't have maunally adjust the throw
everytime.lol

will less throw make the plane fly smoother? no... less throw will make the airplane less responsive. In other words if it will fly like a tank. if your throws are where they're supposed to be by the manufacturer of your plane leave it there.
If you have a computer radio perhaps some expo would be more in order. expodential allows smaller control surface movement at the beginning of stick travel and full control surface movement at full stick travel.
Hope this helps you

I think control surfaces throws which are known as travel adjustments in a computerized radio system, should normally what I read be +100%, -100%, rest it also depends upon your model, upon your choice, but in my very short experience, these throws should not be less than 100%. I'm sure some expert would describe in more details, if Im wrong, that expert would also rectify me.

Thanks

Mody

bad habit,

BTW, about which plane you are talking about, is it a trainer or some other plane, can you specify please?

Mody

Adjusting the throws modifies the amount of control surface deflection.

This can make the plane not pitch up and down as quickly ( or more so ) , not roll as quickly ( or more so ), or not yaw as quickly ( or more so ).

If you find that your warbird is too "twitchy" on the stick and you have a hard time controlling it, there are a couple of other things you should consider first.

First and foremost, add EXPO ( exponential ) to the respective channels, say around 30-50% except for the rudder.

Expo turns DOWN sensitivity around the stick center, causing the plane to be "smoother" and easier to control but not affecting overal total surface deflections.

Next you can move the C.G. forward.

Planes that are more nose heavy tend to be a bit easier to land.


If you are trying to combat left yaw at runup prior to takeoff, additional right thrust will help as will elevating the tail.

Most Warbirds are tail draggers that have the tail sitting very low. This causes quite a bit of yaw and difficulty in getting the plane to track straight.

Increasing the height of the tail gear to give it a LESS "nose up" attitude will make the plane track better.

etc.

PRACTICE makes you (your plane) fly smoother. If you don't have enough throw you may not be able to control the plane or recover from unusual attitudes or prevent a crash if something goes wrong. If you have too much throw you COULD cause accidental stalls, secondary stalls, spins and snaprolls without intending to. ALWAYS set the plane up initially according to manufacturers instructions until you are familiar with it. THEN you can experiment slowly if you wish.

Most ARF's and kits have something in the manual that details the amount of throw to use. Some even say that for the first or maiden flight, set the throws using xx setting. (xx being whatever the numbers may be). Then another set of throws for moderate flying and another set for 3D or extreme throws.

Usually, it is most prudent to use the initial throws for the maiden flight so that you can get the plane up, do some orbits to adjust trims and see where the 'zero' point may be, then after landing you mechanically adjust the position to compensate for any extreme trim adjustments (if you built it right, these should be unnecessary) then you set the throws to whatever you wish them to be. Being careful not to set them to radical so that you lose it.

it's a common thing, so i wouldn't worry too much, At first I thought the throw to my trainer was a bit too much.
Then I got a contender...I thought that things was too much at first. lmao
As most people know the contender lacks roll abilities compair to other models.
I get those models like the Sum'in extra..now there's some control surface on models like that
and you can roll to the moon.


I went from too much throw at first to where I can't get enough and extending control surfaces.

It's just a matter of get flight time in. so your brain can catch up. After a while you'll notice
the control surface moving while the model in the air or doing evasive manuvers.
You don't notice stuff like that at first.
You actaully start using your rudder to make minor flight path adjustment without thinking.
Flying becomes natural after a while.

yeap make minor adjustments, in your flying skills and adjusting your models.

Not sure if your instructor just truned you loose, but mine made me do those basic manuvers
again and again at slow speed and just mastering one manuver at a time.
I thought it sucked at first, but in the long run i'm a better flier.

Bad Habit - If you've bought a warbird but are asking a question like that I'd wonder if you have enough experience to be flying a warbird ????????????
That said I've always been advised to strart with lower rates as long as they're enough to control and fly the plane properly and as you get used to that and are comfortable flying the plane like that then slowly increase them, if you go too far for your 1st flight and it's a more advanced / responsive plane than your previous plane chances are you'll need a bin liner with you. Start low and increase if neccassary is a lot better than destroyed plane and wish it hadn't been so sensitive !!!!!

What throws?

Fly the airplane to find out.

You want just enough throw to do the following:

Ailerons? One axial roll per second.
Rudder? About 45degree deflection.
Steering? About half as fast as the rudder.
Elevator? Just enough to still be able to fly a square loop. Can just stall wing on aerobatic types.

The airplane's performance in the air is the only true answer.

BTW, warbird or trainer, "light on the stick" is not clear. Our sticks are "light" if the springs in the TX are light.

Do you mean that the airplane responds too quickly? If you're not comfortable with how fast any surface is responding, if the response is too quick, then move your pushrod connection on the servo in. When you run out of holes on the servo arm, then start to move the pushrod connections on the horn out, away from the hinge.

It's not as important how far or how much a surface moves compared to how the airplane flies from that movement. The first order of business is to find the neutral trim for each surface, then flight trim the amounts of movement by judging the airplane's response for each surface.

thanks guy's for the info....maybe i should make myself clear on my ability to fly.i have flew for several months now,starting with an Alpha trainer ,and a Nextstar trainer.. piling them up in a cotton patch every now and then.the planes are gettin shabby lookin ,so i went and purchased a hanger 9 p-51 trainer,for my 2nd plane.Its just real touchy ,and i built it according to manufactors specs.Not having an instructor available make things kinda tough..So thats why i was wanting to know how to set the plane up a little different.The different rate's and expo's on each channel.I have cut them to 50%, on the low switch. Do i need to go lower?
I also have a 27% scale Cap 232 / J-3 Piper still building them.Lord knows i need to get more advanced on skills before i fly them..........

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Get some help?? Meet some friends??

The PTS P-51 is fairly DOCILE.

It's throw rates are also VERY conservative because it is targetted for newbies.

Do not lower the throws as you'll end up without enough elevator for landings or roll when you need to right the plane because of a crosswind.

Instead set the Expo HIGHER to approximately 30 ( for low ) and 50 ( for high rates ).

I don't remember if the included radio has EXPO settings. I never flew mine with the radio that is provided.

He didn't say if he got the ARF or RTF.

i don't know .I'm assuming you flew it already to know that it's too much. just dail it out accordingly.
It's hard to say what's too much for you. 50% sounds like a good start , if it's still too much, dial it out.
if it's not enough dial it in. if you havn't, finish your club and make the transition from your trainer
to the cub first instead of going directly to a warbird.

The cub is not a flat bottom with less diehidral so it'll roll more than a trainer but not as much as a hot rod.

or just not it a hole in or out via the cleves or control horn..

Keep the linkage closest to the servo's center to retain torque. moving it out will give you more throw
but you'll loose torque.

you do seal your hinge line don't you ? via clear tape or mono coat . this will prevent air leakage to the control surface.

like opjose said..that's one of thing i hate about trainers, it dosen't roll fast enough when you get in trouble.

So its just a matter of you putting flight hours in

Yup, but even at maximum control horn positions, the plane could use MORE throw. The ailerons are fairly thin in width.

It's safe to assume that either way it's set up as per the manual, as a typical pilot response would be to immediately set things back down to spec if something is too twitchy.

you can get a cheap flight sim to improve your reaction time.

down load FMS for free then download the superman.lol All you can go all out and get the G3.
it'll save you money either way.

You have to dial in or out the sims too, Adjust the inertia in FMS to make it feel more like a your model.

Do you know how to check the CG location? Where is it on the airplane. If it's not where it should be, the mfg's other suggestions are pretty much worthless.

wow! thanks again guy's,this helps a bunch,I have a 2.4 Fasst TX/RX radio with some good features,works great too!. I did have some radio interference with the 72mhg .no problems with the new radio.But with the warbird i dont see how it could be easy for beginers to fly,it is very difficult to control ,a little better when i removed the break'sand the wing lifts. I have the r/c simulator ,and it does help a lot. think i will go to the cub instead for right now,have flew it with not many problems,just the 40 motor was not quite enough power,so i got a 46 max.i think it will be a little better

Good point da Rock. A neutral balanced plane will be very light on it's responses.

The exponential rates, if you have a transmitter capable of those, are a good idea. I had them on my Contender 60 with an OS F70-II. Talk about a jerky plane. I ended up going back to straight rates and just pulling out the Contender when I feel like a "hot" plane. Smooth is how you fly it. If you are reacting you tend to fly jerky. If you are grooved and anticipating 20 feet ahead of it it is smooth, though fast.

You might also try holding your sticks with thumb and forefinger instead of just thumbs. A light touch is something that comes with time, practice and confidence. Warbirds in general are relatively unstable (or they'd be sitting ducks) and take minimal control input. If you throw the sticks around it will fly all asses and elbows. Hum a slow and easy song to get your timing smooth.

That Cap 232 ought to be able to out maneuver your H9 P-51 all ways to Sunday. (in other words even less smooth on it's own . . . so don't let it be on it's own).