Believe it or not, my wife bought me my first four stroke. A Saito 82. The manual says to run "20% oil and 10-15% nitro. If this is not readily available, (I love this part) the next best selection is a high quality 2-cycle glow fuel" and it goes on to list every brand. It says straight castor is NOT recommended and a synthetic-castor mix is acceptable. The LHS has Powermaster YS/Saito 20/20 (the only fuel with 20% oil, and it is straight synthetic, no castor) and I presume that the other 20 is the nitro content. I have read numerous threads on fuel for Saito's and other four strokes. It seems that Saito owners are running just about every oil/nitro mix. I have Powermaster 10% with 18% synthetic-castor mix for my two strokes. My question is, can I use what I have to break it in, and switch to the powermaster 20/20? Or should I stay with what I have, or maybe switch to 15% nitro? I am not looking for "killer performance", I am more concerned with engine life. I am only a little confused[sm=72_72.gif]. Thanks for your help.

The powermaster you are using right now will be just fine in this engine. You don't need to worry about it. I run Cool Power 15% in all of my engines, 2 and 4 stroke, with no issues whatsoever. And yes, I am running a few Saitos in there!!!

ken

I am running 15% nitro 18% caster-synthetic blend on all my 4 strokes including my Saito 100.
I started with the 10% I was running in my 2 strokes but found they seem to like the 15% a little better. I see no reason to use 20% (except in my buggies)

I'm running Helimax 20% nitro with 18% synthetic oil in my Saito 82. Seems to run very well with this blend, I run it on the rich side.

God Bless!

Wow, thanks for the quick responses!

I'm used to paying $50-$80 for my OS FPs, Tower and Thunder Tiger 2 strokes but just plonked down $200 for a Saito FA .62a. I'm not about to risk my $200 on fuel manufacturers who market their fuels only as "containing the finest ingredients" but then tell you it's a "secret" formula.

If the manufacturer recommends 20% oil, then that's what I run in it. If I can't find a commercially available fuel I supplement an 18% or 17% fuel with enough Klotz or castor to bump it up to the recommended brew.

The fact that you have to wipe off the residue from your model should serve as comfort you're only wiping off oil, not metal.

Good point. And that is what had me worried about the 18%. And the manual says NOT to run straight castor and that a castor/synthetic is"acceptable" and lists Powermaster as one of the brands. That leads me to believe that a straight synthetic is better. But then the 20/20 Powermaster is 20% nitro (I am guessing, as the can does not clearly tell you), and the manual says 10-15% nitro. But then the manual says that "the next best selection is a high quality 2-cycle glow fuel. That's why I am a little confused.

mesaflyer, Saito is just covering their butt. They figure if you run 20% oil you wont have a problem. I believe this is also their thinking on the factory low speed needle settings. I just broke in my 6th Saito motor. All have been at least 1-1/2 turns rich on the low end. The YS20/20 blend is 20% synthetic oil and 20% nitro. Many people run it in their Saitos with no problem. I personally run PowerMaster 15% nitro in all of my Saitos but one. I run PM 30% in it. The fuel you have will be fine. Just make sure you break it in really rich and get a tach to tune it. I don't use the YS blend because I use the same fuel jug for several two stroke planes also.

David

Thanks David. I have the tach. Was just a little worried, since this is my first four stroke. As soon as my prop gets here, I am going to bench run the thing for at least an hour with the fuel that I have. Not all at once, of course. I am not that new.

Good to hear. So while your waiting on the prop do a few things to get the engine ready. Pull the valve covers and check the clearance. While the covers are off run some light oil or after run oil down the push rod tubes. You should also put a piece of fuel line on the crankcase vent and put a little oil in there. Now check every bolt on the engine with your tool kit. Then stick it in a zip-loc and when the prop comes you will be ready.

David

Hey thanks David. I read that in the manual about putting in a little oil, just as you described, before starting. Wouldn't have thought about the ziplock. Good idea. I have read on different threads about guys that check the clearence often and guys that never check, and some in between. Have you had many engines get way out of adjustment? And since I am asking questions, the engine is going on a VQ Warbirds P-51D .46 size. I ordered three different props listed in the manual. 13x8, 14x6, and 15x4. Any suggestions on what would be best? I figured I would put the 13x8 on for break in, and then see how it flys. Then experiment with the others.
Peter

I found that the APC 14x6 is a great prop for this motor. I have tons of pulling power and throttle response for my PA Edge 540T.

God Bless!

I would also say 14x6 or 13x8 for a warbird.

David

FYI, I checked the valve clearences, they were ok but one of the lock nuts was a little loose, as was one of the bolts next to the carb. Go figure, and thanks for the tip. I will check EVERYTHING on my all of my future motors. Thanks again for all the info.

I run the 82a with a 14/4w on a PA Edge 540T and it will go vertical forever, but were taking 6 lbs. Don't know what your P51 wt. is.

I don't know either. Not done putting it together. Waiting for new engine mount and fuel tank. Maybe next week.

I have a couple of Saitos. I run YS 20/20 Wildcat fuel in the Saitos. I also add about 2-3 oz of sig castor to the mix but be aware you'll have some varnish on the muffler if you do this. I my engines have performed and lasted great.