reaming prop
#4
Senior Member
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Ok, I'll go against the grain and say that while I usually use my prop reamer, I can't always find it in my messy shop. If I can't I use my drill press.
You MUST have a clamp on the table - not to clamp the prop, but to give the prop something to hit that will keep it from spinning out of your grip just in case. I've never had it happen, but better safe than sorry.
Contrary to popular belief, a drill WILL follow a hole, but there's a little technique involved. You need to hold the prop loosely, so it can "Float" under the drill bit and center itself. This is why you really need a clamp or soomething to keep it from spinning out of your grip.
Bring the drill down into the exisiting hole, and it will move the prop into the proper position, then you can firm up your grip a little and bring the drill all the way through.
Ok, flame suit on. Let's hear all of the nay-sayers.
You MUST have a clamp on the table - not to clamp the prop, but to give the prop something to hit that will keep it from spinning out of your grip just in case. I've never had it happen, but better safe than sorry.
Contrary to popular belief, a drill WILL follow a hole, but there's a little technique involved. You need to hold the prop loosely, so it can "Float" under the drill bit and center itself. This is why you really need a clamp or soomething to keep it from spinning out of your grip.
Bring the drill down into the exisiting hole, and it will move the prop into the proper position, then you can firm up your grip a little and bring the drill all the way through.
Ok, flame suit on. Let's hear all of the nay-sayers.
#5
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
Ok, flame suit on. Let's hear all of the nay-sayers.
Ok, flame suit on. Let's hear all of the nay-sayers.

Ok, it that enough to get my monthly royalty check now???

I've used a drill press using the same technique as mike does before as well. But it's still best to use the prop reamer if you have one. But you can get it done in a pinch with a drill press.
Ken
#10
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From: Nevada City ,
CA
what I have always done is used the pointed base of a metal file. I start very gently, and turn it both ways, making sure I go all the way around so I dont make an oval. They have a very shallow taper, so its easy to take out just the right amount.
Also, I do this Before I balance the prop, so if I get off center with the hole it will show up then.
Also, I do this Before I balance the prop, so if I get off center with the hole it will show up then.
#11
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From: BONAIRE,
GA
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
That really IS the best way, but you still need to use the same technique
That really IS the best way, but you still need to use the same technique
#12
Senior Member
Yeah, a drill press works for me too, BUT it's not really as simple as described (at least for me).
The drill BETTER be sharp.
And the cutting speed BETTER be FAST.
And I use a press vice to hold the prop square and give it some mass.
With the press OFF, bring the drill down and to the hole. Turn it backwards by hand to get an rough idex to the hole to set the vice location.
Turn it on and take a very, very small cut. That will give you a very good look at your centering. True up the centering if needbe. Take another indexing cut and true if needed.
That works for me.
The drill BETTER be sharp.
And the cutting speed BETTER be FAST.
And I use a press vice to hold the prop square and give it some mass.
With the press OFF, bring the drill down and to the hole. Turn it backwards by hand to get an rough idex to the hole to set the vice location.
Turn it on and take a very, very small cut. That will give you a very good look at your centering. True up the centering if needbe. Take another indexing cut and true if needed.
That works for me.
#13
Drill press works for me too. You do need to have the correct size drill. Just getting the size to the nearest 1/16 inch is not close enough. For metric size prop holes (like Saitos require) you will need either a set of metric drills or a set of numbered drills. Numbered drills are easier to find in the U.S.
#14
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From: Burlington,
OK
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK248&P=ML
Get a Reamer & save yourself a lot of trouble. There not that expensive.
Get a Reamer & save yourself a lot of trouble. There not that expensive.
#15

My Feedback: (3)
ORIGINAL: 2HI2C
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK248&P=ML
Get a Reamer & save yourself a lot of trouble. There not that expensive.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK248&P=ML
Get a Reamer & save yourself a lot of trouble. There not that expensive.
Just Kidding!!!
Dave Olson
#16
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From: , MD
Now I know why I have a few of those reamers.. When my father passed away and left me his flying stuff I took up the hobby. I saw those things in the tool box and thought maybe they were for tapping holes for screws or something. Now I know what to use them for!
I'll stop using my car key to ream the props.
Thanks!
I'll stop using my car key to ream the props.
Thanks!
#18
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From: Incirlik, TURKEY
as far as centering a drill bit or reamer on the drill press, start with one that is the same size as the existing hole in the prop. put it in the hole, clamp the prop in the vise or whatever you are using to hold it in place, then swap out for the oversized reamer or bit. it will be centered if you didn't move anything. works like a champ.
#19

My Feedback: (1)
This is not a flame, but a little bit of logic here. If he can't afford a reamer, I don't think he can afford a drill press.
Prop Reamer.. $9.99 at Tower Hobbies. If you can afford an RC aircraft, you should be able to pick up a prop reamer at those prices.
CGr.
Prop Reamer.. $9.99 at Tower Hobbies. If you can afford an RC aircraft, you should be able to pick up a prop reamer at those prices.
CGr.
#20
Senior Member
No flame taken.
But often, guys have some common tools when they don't have the uncommon ones. And very often on a topic it's good to move out a bit on the topic's main point for the benefit of any beginners reading the thread.
BTW, I'd say that if anyone is spending any money on RC at all, they'd be well advised to protect whatever that amount is. And a reamer is along the lines of balancing props, as a very sensible expenditure of money and time. Truth is, there is a huge parallel between the reamer and a balancer.
And I'm surprised the topic hasn't gotten some of the same marginal advice that balancing gets. After all, they're basically the same issue. Same deal, just to a different degree of probability.
Also, consider how much has been spent on a model whose size requires props that need reaming. Very few cheaper, smaller models' props need the holes opened up.
I'd suggest that no matter what your budget is, your advice is good without the caveat. Protect whatever was spent. And it looks like you found the best price around. (I had just done a search and come here to post that link. chuckle.... You gotta get up pretty early to beat the best, don't ya'.)
But often, guys have some common tools when they don't have the uncommon ones. And very often on a topic it's good to move out a bit on the topic's main point for the benefit of any beginners reading the thread.
BTW, I'd say that if anyone is spending any money on RC at all, they'd be well advised to protect whatever that amount is. And a reamer is along the lines of balancing props, as a very sensible expenditure of money and time. Truth is, there is a huge parallel between the reamer and a balancer.
And I'm surprised the topic hasn't gotten some of the same marginal advice that balancing gets. After all, they're basically the same issue. Same deal, just to a different degree of probability.
Also, consider how much has been spent on a model whose size requires props that need reaming. Very few cheaper, smaller models' props need the holes opened up.
I'd suggest that no matter what your budget is, your advice is good without the caveat. Protect whatever was spent. And it looks like you found the best price around. (I had just done a search and come here to post that link. chuckle.... You gotta get up pretty early to beat the best, don't ya'.)
#21

My Feedback: (1)
Ah yes. You are so right..
, but I just bought another reamer (a metric one) so I knew just where to go.. 
But, one thing that my instructor told me when I was trying to outfit my RC, at least initially, was fuel, some sort of way to get the fuel into the tank, a glow starter of some kind, a chicken stick, AND a reamer.
Basic tools, of course also were a necessity, but the above items were pretty much a requirement. It's pretty difficult to get a prop with a hole that is to small on to a shaft that is to large...even by a 1/2 mm. You can force it on, but good luck getting it off. And beginners are gonna break props, there's no getting around that.
And, remember that there are metric and standard (SAE) reamers. If a hole is reamed out with the wrong reamer, it now becomes to large for the shaft and will not center properly.. become wobbly, same as being off balance, which, in reality, is what it is when it is off-center.
, but I just bought another reamer (a metric one) so I knew just where to go.. 
But, one thing that my instructor told me when I was trying to outfit my RC, at least initially, was fuel, some sort of way to get the fuel into the tank, a glow starter of some kind, a chicken stick, AND a reamer.
Basic tools, of course also were a necessity, but the above items were pretty much a requirement. It's pretty difficult to get a prop with a hole that is to small on to a shaft that is to large...even by a 1/2 mm. You can force it on, but good luck getting it off. And beginners are gonna break props, there's no getting around that.
And, remember that there are metric and standard (SAE) reamers. If a hole is reamed out with the wrong reamer, it now becomes to large for the shaft and will not center properly.. become wobbly, same as being off balance, which, in reality, is what it is when it is off-center.
#23

ORIGINAL: CGRetired
Bruce.. I had a loaner car yesterday while my volvo was getting a service done. It was a Dodge Charger. The key.. didn't look like a key.. they call it a 'Fob", whatever that is. Well, there won't be any reaming with that gizmo.
Bruce.. I had a loaner car yesterday while my volvo was getting a service done. It was a Dodge Charger. The key.. didn't look like a key.. they call it a 'Fob", whatever that is. Well, there won't be any reaming with that gizmo.
#24

My Feedback: (1)
No. Well, not the Charger. The Alfa Romeo I rented in the UK in Sept had the FOB with a push button start. This Dodge had a slot that was about a half inch square that the "Fob" key fit into, like a key would, and then you turned the FOB as you would a key. The key slot was in the dash just as a key slot would be.. not in the steering col. It (the FOB) was all made of high-impact plastic or some such thing, and had the car lock system built in. Not much bigger than a key like my volvo has, but it was not a 'key'.
CGr
CGr
#25

Check out the Toyota Avalon "Keyless" system. You never take the "FOB" out of your pocket/purse. The car detects your approach and unlocks. Then you just push a button on the dash to start. No FOB in pocket - no start. Push button again to turn car off. Walk away and the car re-locks and arms alarm.



