I hate bending pushrods cause I never get the right legnth. I have been using the great planes ez lock connectors. The ones that have the pin that gets a metal backing like an earring. Then the pushrod goes into the hole and screws down.

Meh, here is a link to what I am talking about but I am sure you guys know.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK098&P=0



But I see a lot of these "ball links" like the one below but just by looking at the picture, I dont see how they attach to the pushrod and the servo arm. Someone wanna clue me in? Maybe a picture of one actually installed?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK093&P=0

or

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK096&P=0


I had an ez lock come off before. It only happened once and I found it on a pre-flight check, but I am kinda worried about using them again.

someone will correct me if I'm wrong but, I think the threaded ends have to be soldered to the pushrods then the female end screws on. the male end would bolt on to the control horn. I bought some du-bro control wires that were simular to that minus the ball joints.

On the first coupler, the black ball goes into the control horn and then the nut goes on the back. The brass threaded piece is soldered onto a piece of rod that is attached to your pushrod and then the white (socket) piece is threaded onto the threaded brass. The ball and socket is then snapped together.

The other one the screw goes through the ball, the brass bushing and the controle horn, and then a nut on the end of the screw then you would attach your pushrod to the threaded hole in the end of nylon part. This is assuming you're using a pushrod with a threaded end already attached.

I would certainly not use the E-Z locks for anything but throttle unless you are flying small electrics.

The snap on ball links are notorious for popping out when strssed... I would not recommend them. The other set is like larger planes use that generate a lot of torsion and force. Highly recommend them . they are available in 440 or 256. You don't need big ones on small planes. Their advantage is by rolling/twisting they allow side forces w/o straining servo or horns. A typical setup would be a ball joint on the control serface control horn and a setscrew like you first illistration on the servo. BUT there are different kinds of setscrew type connectors. The ones with clips like you show are prone to pop loose at the clip and can be hard to install on a mounted servo. I prefer the ones like that but with threads and a nut, not a clip. Much easier and more secure.
MIke

I forgot to add the following...
TYhread a rod into the ball link with a set nut attached. DON'T use all thread rod it is weak. Measure from the ball link/control horn and run the non threaded rod thru the quick connect set screw . Center your servo with the radio and center you control serface at the same time. mark and cut the rod (marks alot works great.) leave about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of rod sticking out past the servo set screw for adjustments in length. Center again as before and tighten the set screw down. I add a drop of thin CA at this time to make sure the setscrew doesn't loosen by accident, but it will break loose later if you need it to. Hope this helps.
If this isn't clear PM me and I will attach some pictures.
Mike

This is how I do them. The clevis is soldered on. The ball link end threads on. I also like to use a heavy duty servo arm. This takes the flex out of the arm under a load. I have seen people do them with the ball on the controm horn. This is a BAD idea with a stock horn.

David

it is extremely difficult to get the EZ connector to pop out of a servo horn using the metal retainer,almost impossible without pliars,if you use the rubber retainer it comes off easy with a slight tug.
I use them quite alot with no trouble at all, a small flat in the push rod, and some locktite on the set screw, and they are fine,I use the blue type so you can get the screw out if needed.
as noted the small ball links are not for control surfaces,stearable tail wheel installation or non critical control linkages,like landing gear,or throttle, they will pop out with the slightest amount of negative pressure.
the larger type require a bit of soldering skill and the brass coupler can come loose if not properly soldered to the push rod correctly which can obviously cause a big problem.
the inside of my P-47 throttle and rudder both use EZ connector,with the metal back retainer,not the rubber one,the pull/pull for the tail wheel use the snap on ball links at the servo arm.

I don't get it, I have used the EZ Connectors on 30% planes without any problems?? On rudders too on 1/4 scale planes. I hate to see them getting A bad rep. They work OK if you use them correctly. Not my first choice but I do use them.

I use these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV39&P=0
and these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV40&P=0

I like them because they lock on securely, but are easy to disconnect.

IMHO the comment saying ball links pop of easily is grossly in error. They are probably one of the most reliable ways to connect to a horn or servo arm. It is almost impossible for one to disconnect unless a very strong force at right angles to the normal stess is applied, even then you may have a hard time popping one off. The ball joint is supperior to clevisis, Z-bends and most other type connections, especially if you do not want any slop in the system.

EZ Connectors work fine AND are reliable PROVIDED you put a drop of blue locktite on the screw before tightening it up. The blue licktite will let you loosen it up if needed, but will prevent the screw from loosening on its own.

Someone else suggested thin CA. You could use that in a pinch, however you run the risk of the CA breaking in cold weather of dissolving if the nitro fuel gets on it. Blue locktite doesn't have that problem. I have flown planes with an OS 1.60 in them that use ez connectors. No problems at all if you use the locktite.