fly boy2

I need a lil bit of help, I have an o.s. 40 and I only have a chicken stick, but the people at my club started my plane with a starter and when I try to start it at home with a stick, it never works, i have seen my engine started with a stick once and that was it ( the guy used his finger after he just had his finger nicked by another plane), so can you use a drill as a starter, the only starters I'm seeing are like $60, thats with starter, charger and bat

blvdbuzzard

You can if you can adapt the starter cone with rubber insert to the drill. Not the best way but it can be done.

You can get http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJC35&P=ML or http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/404041.asp and use (2) 6 cell car packs to power it. You can get the 1600 mah packs on sale for a good price. You can pick up a 12v battery for a motor cycle for 20 bucks from auto parts store and a charger for 10 bucks too.

If you take the cheap route, the cost will off set with work and some frustration. In the end, it will cost you time and effort or money, but you will pay one way or the other.



Dru.

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

I am not sure that most drills will have the torgue needed to start a motor. Getting an electric starter is the best way. As for batteries you can go to any fire alarm company in the area where you live and ask them for one that has been removed from a fire alarm panel. They are required to be changed out every 4 years and while they may not be good for the fire alarm panel they work great for electric starters. You can get a small 12 volt charger for it from Tower for only a few dollars to charge it with. Good Luck, Dave

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Most attempts end up in failure. Making a mandrel and cone cup is the first stumbling block and the next is many just do not have sufficient RPM's especially the geared types.

Last and most important is the handle and trigger orientation is all wrong making them possibly even dangerous to use. Don't even think of one handing a drill starter.

Check around your club there are always starters floating around that can be had for five or ten bucks.

John

Hossfly

fly boy2, check out B&P Associates at www.bp-rc.com. PO Box 22054, Waco, TX. 76702. (254) 662-5587

They make a very fine set-up. Neat small starter that starts my 4 stroke 1.20 and .90s etc with no problem.

Starter has Ni-Cad cells attached and comes with a 14 volt neat little charger. They are very neat little starter units. They are rather inexpensive for what you get. I even started my G-26 a few times with it when the big starter was out of reach. I have 2.

Spacemonkey71

I can say that this just SOUNDS like a million things to go wrong with some BAD unexpected results.... I don't think I'd even waste my time TRYING to make this work; it just doesn't sound like a good idea. Building the head is just ONE of the problems; keeping it ATTACHED to then end of a drill sounds like a great way to get hit in the face with a wad of hard rubber.... If you're really having problems getting past the "firmness of the engine" trying using a drinking straw and "finger tip suction" a couple of small straw sections into the carburator and rolling it into the cylinder. It freed up a "firm" engine that I had that now runs like it was almost new with ZERO start problems.

I saw a 12V electric starter on ebay just the other day for ~$10 + $8 s/h (i think it finally went for $12). But John's right, start at the OBVIOUS place to get used stuff: your local club. There's ALWAYS someone upgrading SOMETHING (or have too much of something; usually MONEY ) so a starter will fall into your hands for well under the $20 mark (if not FREE!) you just gotta be patient and in the mean time, just ask to borrow someone's starter while you're at the field. Believe me, people understand that (a) this can be a COSTLY hobby and (b) not everyone has unlimited (or nearly so) funds to "eat the elephant" at one sitting.

If you just wake up one day, and say, "I'm going to start flying RC planes" by nightfall you'll have maxed out a credit card and torn through a BIG sack of money! Most people (like me!) can't do this, so we get it together piece by piece as best we can, taking the time we need to do it right (or at least RIG a GOOD solution! )

Check the "buy and sell" forum on this site and post that you're looking for a good used starter. Someone's bound to bite in no-time-flat! If you're not cool with the "ebay" thing; although it appears that SOME of the listings DO point you towards an ebay page; but hey, there's nothing wrong with that -as long as you keep an eye on shipping and hanging charges! In some cases you can get a good "cheap" part and then wind up paying OUTRAGEOUS shipping charges!!! Use your head, it does SLIGHTLY more than hold hats and sunglasses [8D] Try to avoid any "hong kong" parts too... you never REALLY get to know what you could be getting into.... including ripped off..... Some LHS also have bins of "used" parts from people who got out of the sport and you can occasionally find a decent old starter there too. Don't be afraid to ask around ! the RIGHT part is worth it in the end instead of some semi-dangerous, half baked slop job that could really hurt you. (if that drill is spinning and the engine "kicks" back a little, that head could pop right off and YOU get a cool new facial scar to show off [:@] )

Red B.

Save yourself some money and learn to start the engine using the chicken stick.
I do not know if your engine is a two-stroke or a four-stroke, but the techniques are similar.

The key to hand starting an engine is proper priming of the engine.

Two-stroke engine starting: Open the throttle fully, cover the carb intake with your finger and turn the propeller over until you can see fuel being drawn into the carurettor. While still covering the carb intake, turn the engine over three to four more turns to prime the engine. Now flip the propeller vigourosly a couple of times to distribute the fuel that has been drawn into the engine. Close the throttle to slightly above idle and connect the glow plug igniter. Smartly flick the propeller in the correct running directions and your engine should start or at least fire. If it does not, prime the engine again. An engine that is warm does not usually require priming, simply start it by smartly flicking the propeller a couple of times.

Four-stroke engines are started in a similar manner. Presuming you use muffler pressure you can prime the engine by turning the engine over a 3-5 turns while covering the exhaust with your finger (throttle fully open). Uncover the exhaust and flick the propeller a couple of times to distribute the fuel. Close the throttle to slightly above idle, connect the glow plug igniter and using the chicken stick, bump the propeller backwards aginst compression. This usually causes the engine to fire and start running in the correct direction.

The above procedures should work for the majority sport-type engines. Large capacity two strokes can often be started the same way I start my four-stroke engines, i.e., by bumping the propeller backwards against compression.

flyX

It's cheaper if you just get a starter set up then to be messing with a power drill.

I had a friend milled me a thing of ma loo even. If you don't have access to a machine shop..it's going to cost ya.
Even if you did get someone to mill you that part it's going to cost you more than a starter set up.

It's only going to be $40-$50. battery/starter.
Just invest $100 for a flight box with all the stuff you need...fuel pump, power panel, glow driver, starter, cross wrench...ect
You'll need it later..Heck you'll get 2-3 flight boxes after a while from horse trading or fun fly sales...as you would with your
model collection.


A good chordless drill will cost you $80 +.

For a noobie...I suggest just getting an electric starter or join a club....Your instructor or ppl will have a starters or will help you
start your engine.

Your hands and fingers are worth a lot more than $50....don't mess around.

$500 to get started is the average.

$300 for a model set up
$100 for a decent flight box set up
$100 for AMA and club fees

If you shop around you might be able to save a little bit of money...
Then just get an iron and a heat gun or whatever other tools you'll need , such as a good allen wrench set, screw driver set.
You'll need all these things....spare props and glow plugs too.

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

You said you have an OS .40, so I'm assuming its the LA 40. These engines are generally pretty easy to hand start once they're properly tuned. They also like to be pretty heavily primed. I normally give my about 7-8 strokes with my finger over the carb at full throttle and then close the throttle, remove my finger, and give it 7-8 more flips. Then put the glow igniter on and start flipping. If it doesn't start in the first 3-4 flips, try opening the throttle one or two clicks on the transmitter and try again. If it still won't start, try leaning out the high speed needle one or two clicks. Every 3-4 flips, lean out the high speed needle one or two clicks. Eventually you should get to the point where it will start.

Make sure you're glow igniter is fully charged. The first start might take a while, and a dead glow igniter can be very frustrating.

Don't be surprised if it starts backwards. Just flip the throttle open and closed when its running backwards. If it still won't turn around, pinch the fuel line. As it leans out, it will turn around.

Brad

fly boy2

ok, that was an idea my dad threw out when we are decideing if i can get a starter with my next pay check, i was wondering if the drill would have enough torque, but I will try to start it tonight

GUNS

OK, I'll be the first to go against the flow! [:-]Yes, you can use a drill if it has enough power. I have used my DeWalt 18v cordless drill to start up to 100cc gas engines. You can buy the Sullivan cone with the rubber insert you need for your particular spinner for under $20. Use a 1/4x20 bolt and locknut for the stud to chuck in your drill. Remember to set the drill to counterclockwise (reverse) and fire it up! A caveat: make sure you have someone hold the plane for you, it is more unwieldy than a starter designed for RC engines.

That being said, I would also recommend purchasing a dedicated starter for RC. In a pinch, the drill will definitely work, it is just not as convenient.

Tim

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

Stop by Walmart and look around the toy clearance section..

Last time I was there they had 12v 4.5a sealed batteries w a charger for $20
Tower has a starter for $18
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJC35&P=0

ceecrb1

I cant say I paid much at all for a starter.

For a 40 size engine it can be one of the smaller cheaper models too....

"BUY RIGHT, BUY ONCE"
Can you honestly tell me you'll go to all the effort of finding a way to use a drill to start the motor and you'll NEVER buy a starter in the future. Buy it once and its "done".

save up and borrow in the mean time, and when you have finnished borrowing, make sure the owners know you are greatfull.

jester_s1

For that matter, entire flight boxes with everything included are around at most clubs. I've seen them for around $50 with starter, battery, panel, glow driver, fuel pump and the box itself.

kid chuckles

For my starter I use a 200amp charger for vehicles. This is at home at the field I ran heavy guage wire from my battery to the back of my truck. Drilled two holes and inserted bolts with wing nuts. I hook my starter up straight to the bolts. You can extend the wire from your starter if you need longer lentghs. This works better and your starter has more power than the small 12V that come in the toter boxes. I have them also for when I just can't use my truck. The drill deal will work in a pinch but man a starter is not much more than a drill. I understand most folks have the drill though.

fly boy2

I already have a drill and i thought i could buy something to fit it, to turn the prop

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Bottom line the likely result will be in either you or your dad getting hurt. Drill motors cannot be handled safely for this use. Somehow when the light clicks on I don,t think this is what your dad really wants for you.

Are you not involved with your local club? are you not getting free flight training? Why have you not checked with members for inexpensive equipment? Heck I have given away tons of stuff including many starters to help new folks shoot I think there are six of them out there now just waiting for eager new members.

John

carrellh

For $14.03, plus a bolt and nut for a shaft, you can convert your drill to be a starter.

$7.29 cone
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL400&P=V

$1.75 insert
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL401&P=V

$4.99 "Parts Express" shipping

Will it work? Depends on the power of the drill.

fly boy2

yeah i'm in a club, today we have a meeting, i ask if anyone has a starter for sale

bruce88123

Why are you re-inventing the wheel when you can buy the starter mentioned in post #2 or Equiv for under $20 and add a battery http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL370&P=ML and have something that is safe and reliable.

opjose

If you have any sort of suitable output, you can forgo the charger and battery.

I hooked my Hobbico starter to a pair of 7.4 volt RC car batteries, and it produces far more power this way, while lasting me through several weekends of starts for each charge. This was cheaper than using the commercial battery packs and far better.

The starters can work with 12v through 16v w/o problems and some people run them even higher.

flyX

I got a complete flight box tower set up with everything I need from tower for $70.
I just used a coupon they send to with every purchase.
I had it shipped the sametime I purchased a model. That in itself saved me money.
Pluse when I purchase more at tower on an order I also get a discount.
So bascailly a flight box is relatively cheap, if you shop around and do your math right.

Why the heck would you want to buy a cone and an insert and whatever else you have to mess with ?
when you can get the starter for $20 without all the hazzle.

Ialso had one of those potable or cordless starter too, $50 as i mention.

Yes you can get a motorcyle battery or put a bunch of AA or C cells togther .
You can even use batteries that gose into the flight box.
But then you still need a charger.

The portable set up comes with a charger already
Why mess around.
Your not going to save any money.lol

Then the next thing your going to tried to do is sand or clip damage props to save a couple of bucks.
Don't mess aroound.

opjose

The "portable" setup is a P.O.S.

The battery barely cranks over larger engines, and the battery dies fairly quickly, usually within the season.
It only holds enough of a charge for an afternoon of flying....

I removed the provided battery and replaced them with two 3800mAh 7.4v rc racing packs...

Now I can turn over 50CC engines ( with the larger starter using this arrangement ) and I can go 2 to 4 full weekends of startups between charges.

I rarely ever worry if I forgot to charge the battery now.

FYI: if you forgo the "portable" pack and simply zip tie the RC race packs in place, as many at our field do... it's about the same price.

It you use smaller packs than I did, say 1900mAh ones ( about $12.00/ea from Nitroplanes which also work ) it's much cheaper yet still provides stronger starts and more duration than the single 1200mAh 12v battery which Tower Sells you.

flyX

I don't know what portable set up you're talking about but mine has a 12 V battery in it.
I've never had any problems with it. I also use it to start my heli.

Personally i think it's Retarded to make portable starters heavier more than they have too, espacailly i need to use it
for my heli too.

I don't plan on messing with starting my models for hours...

If it gets too difficult there's always my fieldbox...if it gets too difficault than that...
there's alway jumper cables in the back of my car.

I don't even need a starter to start my airplane models anymore...but I'm not a noobie and been flying for over a decade.

flyingJ

Hobbico starter 90 deluxe 27.99 Two 7.2v 3300mah batterys from radio shack 20.00 plus ends 5.00 K&n battery holder from tower hobbie 14.00 I already had a charger this gives me plenty of power to start all my planes and I have no cords to get caught in the prop. Also easy to take to the flight line if the engine quits. You can also check at your local Hobby Shop to see if they have a used starter that someone traded in, or they are selling for someone. I see this alot at the shop I use as people upgrade, or move out of the planes and into Helis. I have 3 starters now, sullivan panel ready, sullivan 12v alligator clips and the hobbico converted to portable. I loan out the sullivan with A clips to newbies to help them KEEP their fingers, all I ask is that when the oppertunity comes that they can help someone with some sort of loaner that they do. Examples {props,starter, fuelline or even fuel} Have borrowed a gallon of fuel before when the flying was great and the hobby shop closed. Purchased and replaced with the same as borrowed.