goirish

I am very allergic to CA so I normally use the wood glues. This time I wanted to do the tail feathers in transparent so I had my grandson use CA to glue the joints. The stab was built over the plans with plan protector on top of the plans. When I went to remove the stab it would stick to the plan protector. Heck of a mess. Having to do a lot of sanding to remove the protector. What did we do wrong and is there a better method of removing the glued on protector sheet. Shoulda stayed with the gorilla wood glue.

yel914

Try using plastic sheeting from the hardware store, 2-3 mil thickness, as a plan protector. It's cheaper and is easier to peel away from parts that get glued to it. Also, if CA is too much for you, try yellow woodworkers glue, like Titebond. Gorilla glue has it's uses, but not on most parts of model airplanes. Good luck

goirish

The gorilla glue that I use is the wood glue, looks like titebond only it dries more clear. Grabs fast. This is not the glue that expands like I would use for robart hinge points. I normally don't use CA but did this time and it will probably be the last time.

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

I just use good ole wax paper over the plans.....

goirish

Does the CA stick to that?

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

a tiny bit, but it usually peels right off....

goirish

Boy, not with the protector sheet. It really hangs on. Don't know if I can use the heat gun and peel it off like I would Monokote.

Deadeye

If you use acetone, you might remove it. Just be careful not ot soak the joint and ruin it. CA has it's uses, but not very many in my workshop.

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

I second the wax paper. Cheap, and nothing sticks to it. I also use it extensively in fiberglassing. I also don't use CA. Clean joints just mean being careful will the glue. Carpenters glue sands much easier that CA if you do have a blob that gets through.

Acetone does a poor job of dissolving CA. You'll have better luck with MEK, but use it out side, as its more toxic than Acetone. Becareful it doesn't debond you're glued joints.

Brad

goirish

thanks Brad

I used the heat gun and that seem to work much better than the sanding. I always use the gorilla wood glue but opted to try CA. Back to the wood glue. I also found that with some aggressive sanding some of CA joints broke loose.

JohnW

My Feedback: (6)

Something is wrong with the CA or process used if the CA joints broke loose. I tend to avoid using CA, but will use it on the right project. For the best wood to wood joints, the parts should fix exactly. If there are any gaps, the joint will be greatly weakened. Then wick a bit of thin on both parts and then wick medium on one part then join the parts. The combo of following with medium after then thin before joining makes for a very strong joint. Other notes, the wax paper works good, a bit of paper may stick, but sands off easily.

goirish

Thanks John

The parts were tight fitting. Not having used CA-maybe my grandson didn't put enough on. But I will stick with the wood glue. Not in that big of a hurry. There is always other parts that need to be built while the wood glue is tacking. Thanks for the info. Guess I will start using wax paper certainly a lot cheaper than the plan protector roll. Cost as much as a roll of covering.

Stick 40

Hi Irish,

sorry your having problems, I use wax paper also and have had good luck with it. It might stick a little , but not much. We used to try and put the waxie side to the where the glueing is going on, but I don't know if that is still the case with the newer wax paper.

I can't really tell one side from the other, anyone know if the wax paper has a difference to the sides??????

goirish

Hey Stick

Weather is not cooperating very well. Maybe I will get out in the morning. The Tiger 60 is coming along other than the stupid plan protector getting glued to the stab. I may need your help with the installation of the DX-7. Gonnnaaa try it.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Goirish,
Save the backing from Monokote when you cover. That is an excellent plan protector, glues will not stick to it. Also, pick up vinyl sheeting at your local Lowe's or Wal-mart. It's used for dropcloth when painting. The 3 mil sheeting is more than enough for what we do, and a roll will last you for a good 8-10 kit builds. It's not that expensive either.

Ken

goirish

G'afternoon Mr. Ken

Thanks for the information. I build mostly kits or scratch build and I have always used the plan protector. But!! I always used wood glue or epoxy and never had a problem with it sticking. Dumb CA. I will use the ones you suggested as the plan protector is rather pricey. Building the Tiger 60 because I had a ASP-75 laying around looking for a home. I lost a Magnum 70 4 stroke to Mr. Davy Jones at the Midwest Regional Float Fly. I had it tethered but the upright that held the pod broke off. So it lays at the bottom, still tethered.