I'm starting an LT40 soon. My first build. I am planning on not using CA.

Dumb question...

Can I use titebond (or other aliphas) just as I would CA? I know it won't fly for hinges. But if I frame up a wing, can I then just glue it together with titebond allowing the glue to "wick" into the joint? (like discussed in this thread... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8104967/tm.htm)

Thanks

You sure can. The only advantage to using CA is it's quick setup time.

I wouldn't recommend it. I would suggest coating both pieces that make up the joint, then placing them together. Titebond will wick some, but nothing like CA. Best of luck!

I have framed up wings, with everything pinned in place, and then gone over all of the joints with yellow glue, thinned just a bit with water, applied with a small paintbrush. The glue always penetrated fine and nothing ever came apart.

It makes for a much more enjoyable build than using CA.

I like r2champion's answer best. "Buttering" at least one surface with glue first works best because aliphatics don't wick as well as THIN CA will. A small fillet can be applied after if the buttering was marginal.

True, I didn't notice the "Wick" comment at first.

OK, then those who build with aliphatics... do you butter the end of each and every piece? Wings too? Frame the entire thing out, then go back piece by piece and butter? Fillet as necessary?

I'm sorry if this sounds so silly. It's just every building manual I have seen uses CA. I'm going to be building in the basement. I used some CA in the house before and the Mrs was NOT happy. It's mainly concerns about domestic tranquility.

Thanks for the help everybody.

I used to build with CA, but gave it up many years ago. First of all was the health reasons. I just don't like what it does to my eyes, nose, and lungs. It was unpleasant building with it. The only thing I keep it around for now is for hardening threads that I cut in wood, and for the reviews that I do. Otherwise, I don't use it.

The other reason why I build with wood glue is that I get a better built plane out of it, IMHO. Youdon't get hard spots that are next to impossble to sand like you do with CA. Also, with wood glue you get a little bit of time to make sure your parts are set properly before the glue hardens, but with CA it has to be right the first time or your sunk.

This is one area where Minnflyer and I always disagree. He likes to build with CA, I prefer wood glue.

Ken

Chuck, a lot of model planes were built before CA came on the scene. Aliphatic Resin is an excellent adhesive. No, the technique is not the same as CA, but you will develop a workable technique for your own building style. I have seen a very thin, wickable version of AR glue that resembles a CA bottle, but I have no personal experience with it. Aliphatic Resin is a water soluble glue. The water evaporates, leaving a light weight, very strong bond. I built the SIG 1/5 Cub mainly with AR (and some CA) and the Dynaflite Deacathlon with nearly all AR and some epoxy. And the cost is much less for AR over CA.

Go for it, you will like it.

You lay out each piece and test fit it for proper fit. The decide where it will need glue applied. Remove the piece as much as needed to apply the needed glue and do so. Reinstall the piece and pin/clamp/weight it into place if needed. Let it set up a bit if needed and proceed to the next piece. This should not be a race to completion but rather an enjoyable pastime. You can do a wing piece on one building board and while waiting for it to "tack up" glue up a fuselage piece or the other wing on another board. Or just read ahead on the directions again. You can NEVER read the directions too many times. Heck, get up and go get a beer. What's the hurry??

I like Titebond II for building. Aileen's "Tacky Glue" is a good one, too. A little better for some non-wood materials (it is a Vinyl based, water soluable white glue).

I keep a little dish of water and an acid brush on hand. The water is handy for wiping any overspills off the balsa (will make the final surface clear without sanding and cuts down weight).

I use the brush to "paint" the glue onto both surfaces. With aliphatic (or Vinyl) it is vital to clamp or pin the parts together while the gule dries. Partly because it strengthens the bond and partly because the glue is wet and the wood will warp from differences in moisture. That's what makes such a good bond - the glue permiates right into the wood cell structure.

I would never "wick" wood glue like I would CA and expect it to hold. You could also use Ambroid if you could find any around or perhaps UHU. But it would present a similar smell issue I imagine. Here's a good link for your reference: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform.../adhesives.htm

You can also add Gorilla glue and Gorilla Wood glue to your selection.

Regards,

Clay

Thank you everybody!

It's not that I'm in a hurry. I just want to figure out the "correct" process to make sure I do it right. (It's a hard core left-brain thing. ) If I was in a big hurry I'd be in the AFR section! (no offense anybody).

I have only gathered up the parts to my first kit build and I already thinking about the next 2 I want to build. (SIG 1/5 Cub and an UltraSport).

I picked up 3 ceiling tiles for building boards. I was thinking about "doubling up" after I finish the first wing half.

Again, thank you everybody for your input. I think I'm going to have to leave work early today to start gluing.

Can I assume you meant ARF ?

Yes I did. [sm=red_smile.gif]

This is my first build with wood glue. All the other times i've used CA and it is a bear sometimes when something is not glued straight or CA runs all over the parts that need sanding. I just completed one wing panel on a SS60. My method was to setup all the ribs with the spars, leading edges and trailing edges pinned. I zapped them with alittle CA and let it set for a second. I then used Elmers wood glue to add all the sheeting. That way the parts that are going to be sanded do not have CA on them. Working good so far.

skeeter

Oh Bruce, can you imagine what my plane would look like if I went and got a beer. The wing would probably have the TE in Front right behind the stab. One wheel up and one down.

Chuck, I commend you on choosing to build your trainer. You will have a better plane,
and you'll know how to make repairs should they be needed. Good luck.......Dan[sm=shades_smile.gif]

You didn't read carefully did you? I never said to open the beer.

You know how us RC addicts are. give us an inch and we take a mile.