Hello,

Here is my problem, the bottle and the nozzle of the TiteBond are huge means its hard to get the nozzle into tight places like shear webs and corners.

So far I used to squeeze a little bit and spread it with a Q-tip but I have the feeling it doesn’t penetrate between the parts like med CA does.

I was using small syringes and I see that big ones are $1.79 each, can you clean them for reuse?

So far I’ve been using TiteBond 3 and its hard to sand and messy, but I like the results.

I’m definitely do not want to go back to big gluing session with CA health wise, so lets see your methods.

Thanks
Alex

i only ever use the qtip method, and it works fine. as far as glue penetration, i think that it would be better than med CA cause the titebond takes a while to dry. this allows the glue to penetrate the wood.

You can get these syringes at any pharmacy. If you're in the middle of a lot of gluing, there's no need to clean, just keep a cup of water handy and drop it in there to keep the tip wet.

When you're done, just pull out the plunger and rince it with water.

Another option is to transfer some of your Titebond into a tiny elmers glue bottle (1 oz.) with the orange twist cap. It never hardens up and it can reach most places. For the really tight corners I have a piece of scrap 1/32 ply shaped like a quill pen. I dump some glue on the tip from the Elmers bottle and transfer it into the recesses of the structure smearing it along the surface as I go.

The nice thing about building this way is I can pin the entire structure together, check and cross-check alignment, and then start gluing. If you don't feel comfortable with the Titebond, glue a couple of pieces of scrap together at right angles, let it dry and then try and pull it apart. It's amazing stuff.

I use a CA bottle. I picked up a bunch of extra tips and caps a couple years back and I also picked up a 20z bottle. I add about 5 to 10% water to it to thin it out for better penetration. Start with the smaller amount of water and increase if you need to.

There is one application that doesn't lend itself to the Titebond though. I was scratch building a plane that required a 1/32 ply doubler on 3/32" balsa. I smeared a lite layer on and put the pieces together on a flat hard surface and put a piece of board over then loaded it up with weight. I think I had close to 40 lbs on it. Well, the next day when I pulled the stack apart, the glue had dried, and I had a 1" bow in the 3" width of the side. What a mess to try to over come. I had to clamp the sides to the formers and I still ended up with a slight bow. I'm still flying the plane, but the covering was never good and after replacing the covering last month, it still isn't right. I'll go with a thin coat of epoxy next time.

Don

Thanks guys, its just I feel like a race against time to save the syringe when I start gluing.
Never thought of thinning titebond with water….

Don thanks for the story with the bow, you saved me from doing this too.
Thanks
Alex

Thanks MinnFlyer, that’s exactly the spot I was thinking about, can you glue the both sides sheeting and then do the shear webs on US60?

Alex

no now that im thinking about it there is no benefit in this, i'll just stick to the plans.
Thanks

For LE sheeting, I've taken to Gorilla glue. Put just a very thin bead along the rib, spar, and LE spar. Lots and lots of blue tape and tape the sheeting in place. The glue will foam up and fill any gaps and it is not that dificult to clean up after it sets. Just shave the foam out off with a Xacto knife or razor plane. Then you can sand down glue joint. Make sure you wipe up any foam out when it starts to kick off. If you use just a very fine bead, there will not be that much foam out anyway.


Don

I use Titebond II and usually apply it with an artist brush. I keep a 2 oz jar with straight Titebond and another 2 oz jar with Titebond thinned with water 25%. For applications needing extra strength, I apply the thinned Titebond to both surfaces and let them dry for at least 1/2 hour, then follow with full strength and clamp if possible. I buy the brushes at Harbor Freight, 20 for 3 bucks. I keep a container of plain water beside the small jars of Titebond to rinse and keep the brush in while using . Once finished, rinse the brush out and let it dry. Makes for a very light build. Not as light as CA, but no side effects and still very light.

I use the elmers ultimate/gorilla glue alot as well.. I have never used q-tips so much as just balsa scrap sticks, dip it in a little puddle of white glue, and work it in the joint. if its a tight joint I usually get both faces of the area wet with glue and then put it in place, and pin or weight the area...Pica used to make a white glue that worked like titebond, but dried MUCH faster, wish it was still around.

I buy small applique bottles at Michaels craft store. There like $.50 each as I recall.

This is the best applicator I have found. They come in 1 & 2 oz sizes, and I find it excellent to apply small amounts of glue exactly where you want it during general construction. The cap is tight and keeps the glue fresh. I am sure you can find it cheaper elsewhere if you looked around.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=60363

I use these, and titebond 1.

I put a small dab of Titebond on a piece of wax paper and then use a coffee stir stick. I apply the titebond to the piece prior to placing it (checking the fit first of course). One tip I heard was to apply the woodglue to both surfaces and let it soak in for a minute, then reapply so glue and place the piece(s). I like the Titebond, more time to place the piece and no adverse health stuff.

I use the CA bottle as well, the tiny aplicator helps with getting into small areas,for glue type I prefer titebond I or II ,the III is a exterior adhesive and doesn't sand as good as the I &II does.
I use titebond for work so I get it in the gallon jug and pour it off into the several different sized containers I need for whatever application applys,large,med, small,and CA bottle.

The syringe that MinnFlyer uses works very well. I get a couple during my dental visits just for the asking. Puts it right where you want it.

My wife was a Dental Assistant. That's where I got it

Several years ago at a farm supply store, I picked up a syringe and several different tips to for it. These are designed for live stock (and a short life, I am sure), and are pretty cheap. But by cleaning it out (occassionally) mine has kept working just fine over several models built from kits. I like the idea of "storing" the syringe in a water container, though, and have not tried that. I just stick a thin straight pin in the tube and pull back on the plunger to keep things pretty usable. Also, I find that these resin glues are heavy if you over-do their use, but don't think that CA is ultralight either! While the resin glues lose some weight as the water evaporates from them, that smoke you see coming off a tight CA joint is not adhesive departing the model. If you use up a one ounce bottle of CA on your model, you added one ounce of weight to it.

toothpicks and small paint brushes work also

I have an applicator kit from Rockler.. I've been using and cleaning the same ones for a few years..
These are great for doing pin hinges..

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...4&cookietest=1

Thanks guys,
this kit looks nice sscherin.

I've got some small syringes with squared off "needles" that came with an old inkjet refill kit. Works great for reaching into tight quarters or leaving a small bead of glue. I've also bought syringes at the local farm and home store in the livestock section... just cut the sharp tip off of the needles with a dremel and cutoff tool.