I agree, Mono does take more heat. Once I was taught how to cover planes at my LHS... I'm now not afraid to cover anything. Matter in fact that's my favorite part of the build. Plus the more times you cover planes the better you'll become. The hardest part for me was geting my Iron setting just right... not too hot and not hot enough etc. I like using a Iron with a Sock rather than using a Heat Gun, it gives me more control and gives me a better chance not to have my covering pull from the edges.

Once my plane is covered, I attack the areas that wrinkle later on with a Trim Iron with the setting on high. I want you all know I've screwed up a few cover jobs and wasted a few rolls by trial and error while learning, so don't give up... OK?


Good Luck!

So do I just use my knife to cut it then the iron to release the adhesive?

Don't forget the glove or sock to follow in behind the iron with your other hand

Yes. Or lift the covering at the TE and once you have enough to grab, grab it with a gloved hand and pull while using the heat gun

Your wing looks pretty good[sm=shades_smile.gif]

where is a good place online for ultra-cote. I couldnt find any on tower.



john

Tower doesn't carry UltraCoat. They carry Monokote. If you want to get Ultracoat you'll need to go to [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com]www.horizonhobby.com[/link]

Ken

Cool thanks Ken



john

Uc may be easier than mono, but solartex has got them all beat five way to Sunday

Well the major parts are covered now im working on the control surfaces. This is what i have so far.




john

John... your doing a fantastic job so far! Keep up the good work. Make sure you keep the tension on the Mono... it will keep it from loosening up. Plus with Mono you will want to apply the heat and back off from it and wait... and watch to see if the wrinkles disappear.

With Ultra, I can apply the heat and in most cases it will tighten while I have the Iron on it. Basically Mono is a little tricky, but once you learn to work with it you'll love working with Mono.

If you decide to add any designs or striping, use Ultra on the Mono. You can't use Mono on Ultra because of the difference of the heat sensitivity of the Ultra. Meaning you can apply Ultra stripes with the Iron and it won't effect the Mono... and less chance of playing "Chase the Wrinkle" game. [:@]


Your first covering job looks better than some who have been doing it for a while that I fly with at my club. Matter in fact it looks better than my first airplane. [&o] Take your time.

Thanks Luft. Well it took 5 hours but i got the control surfaces done. It is looking pretty good I think. Going to work on stripes and stars tomorrow.






john

Not true, I've done it both ways.

In fact, applying MK trim over UC is my preferred methid because you can use Trim Solvent and avoid using ANY heat

Hmmm, never thought of that. See I even learn new idea's in this foum. MinnFlyer isn't windex like a MK solvent? I never used it but I've read many times at RCU it was and I never tried it.

Yes, using Windex is a great way of putting Monokote over either Ultracoat or Monokote. The ammonia in the Windex activates the adhesive in the Monokote and lets you apply it with no heat.

Here is a pretty good thread that describes how to do this method.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_603331/anchors_603331/mpage_1/key_flag/anchor/tm.htm#603331]Applying monokote graphics with windex.[/link]

Ken

Got a little more work done tonight.

Finally got a pic to upload well i thought i had the pics uploaded [&o]

JM,

I've only covered a few planes and have never come close to doing as good as you are doing now. But 5 hrs for just control surfaces explains why! I've never been that patient.

A couple of ARF's I've been piddling with come covered in Oracover. I've read its the same as Ultrakote but don't know that for certain. What I do know is the amonia based blue window cleaner works great for the trim. Just spray it on the area you want to apply the trim, peel the backing off the trim and spray it as well then slide it on and scoot it to where you want it. You can then hold in place with a fingertip while you squeegee the fluid out with the edge of a credit card. Let set for a few hours or overnight. You can then followup with the iron around the edges if you wish.

The trim can be made withtrim sheets, or monokote. Stick decals on the same way.

BTW, are you going to seal your hinge gaps?

I have a kit in the closet and you're giving me the urge to try it again,

Clay

MinnFlyer, do you prefer to cover the fuse with the stabilizer and fin attached, or by themselves and then glue them on when finished? Just curious as to which is easier. Also, I've seen planes that have a support at the fin/stab interface that looks like triangle stock but is dished (concave) on the side that is showing, are these store bought pieces or hand sanded? Thanks, StikDude

I prefer to assemble first and then cover.

It makes covering a little more difficult, but the end results look so much better.

I can remember when ARFs first hit the scene. Two of the things that just bugged the hell out of me (aside from the poor quality of early ARFs) were the plastic parts (like wing tips, stab tips and a fin tip) that were just glued on after covering, and the big open seam where the stab and fin met the fuse (Due to being covered first and then assembled)

Besides, with MOST kits, assembly is done long before covering, so to cover first would require some re-engineering on the part of the builder.

The trick to covering a plane with installed tail surfaces is to iron a thin strip (About 3/8" ) to the corner first.

Below is a pic of how it's done and a pic of my current covering project with the corners covered

It is also demonstrated in the first video in this article:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=726

Edit: PS, Although ARFs have come a LONG way in quality, they still have those big ugly seams where the stab and/or fin meets the fuse. To me, covering after assembly is a "Badge of Honor" so to speak, that shows it was BUILT and not just ASSEMBLED

Gee MinnFlyer I don't have white, would it work with a different color?

Actually, you make a good point Gene. If that seam will be covered with two different colors (Like a Yellow Stab and Green fuse) use the lighter of the two colors for the corners

Hope fully it worked this time

Thanks Clay. The only reason it took so long on the control surfaces is I did each one a different way to try to find the best way to do it for me.




john

Should the hinge gaps be sealed? And what is the best way to do it? My manual says to use tape on the bottom side.




john