For people just getting into electrics.. I would offer a little advice.</p>

Try to "standardize" on battery sizes/shapes/capacities. Why? So you can move/use your batteries in multiple planes, thus spreading your battery costs.</p>

For example, I'm mostly standardized on ThunderPower Pro-Lite 4200 mAh battery packs. I get them in both 2S2P and 3S2P set ups. I started to really hate Dean's connectors, and converted all my batteries over to 4mm bullet connectors. On all batteries, I was consistent, one male connector on the positve, and one female connector on the negative battery leads. Then I wired up the ESCs just the opposite.</p>

Why do I do this? The bullet connectors allow me to connect the batteries in series without extra connectors/adapters. I can now assemble 2S, 3S, 4S, 5S and 6S battery setups with two battery packs. Just hook 'em up.</p>

The bullet connectors also allow me to add in an arming switch really easily. If I desire. I actually find the bullet connector easier to plug in/pull apart compared to the Dean's.</p>

Like I said spreading the battery costs across multiple planes is the biggest benefit. My LT40 uses a 2S and a 3S pack in series. My US 60 uses two 3S packs. My next plane may need a 4S. All possible with the same batteries.</p>

Also, as time goes by, you can add batteries to your inventory one-by-one. If you're ordering stuff on-line, and you need to spend a little extra to get free shipping, or some sort of discount.. add another battery to the order. You'll use it eventually...</p>

Personally, I see the magic cost cut-off at about .60 size aircraft. If you already have a good collection of batteries, .60 sized airplanes aren't to expensive to electrify. But if you're just starting?the upfront cost can be pretty intimidating. If you're just starting out, I'd say the line might be at the .40 size.

Electric really has a benefit (and costs) when it you start getting into multi-engine birds.. But that's another story/thread/post/argument.... :-)</p>

</p>

Cappaj1, I don't have any full length pics of the plane yet, but here's some pics of the conversion. U can find the plane on nitroplanes.com, Extra 330L 63". It was only $124.99!!!!I bought the red with black/white checkered design, Ilove it.
The recommendations about power from pkh are pretty good, not sure if you really need 200w+ for 3D, 150w+ seems to work for most, depends on prop size, etc. But with the LT40, you certainly won't be hovering it, so 100w/lb should be plenty for you

Thanks, guys.

vmsguy - yes, if you have the specs, that'd be helpful.

The deans are kinda difficult to pull apart sometimes without gripping the wires themselves. I ordered the hobby city deans that have grips on them. The link is broke so I can't post it.

Here's the thread on my LT-40.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6359162/tm.htm

I *think* I could've made the smaller motor work, but I mistakenly thought, "morevoltage can swing bigger prop faster." That was wrong...

Ithink, If I had gone with a smaller prop at the higher voltage, the original motor probably would've worked.The 11x6 I started with, was justover the edge of what the motor/ESC could handle. A slightly smaller prop, like an 11x5, or a 10x6 would've probably been within the power limitations of the motor/ESC. 11x5 would probably be the better choice. The LT-40 isn't exactly a speed deamon, so you don't need the speed of the higher pitch prop. Where-as the extra thrust 11" diameter prop would've pulled the plane around (albiet more slowly) with authority.

Then again, my current motor flies the plane really well.

I think if I were starting over, I'd try something like a Rimfire 42-60-800, an 80Amp ESC, a 5S2Pbattery setup, and a 10x5 prop. You could then keep the stock landing gear. Actually, I'll be using this setup in a 4*40 that's waiting to go on my building board.

Its getting to the point where you don't have to do anything in this hobby anymore except spend money and go fly. A bit boring if you ask me. I will stick to building my planes and glow motors for now.

Yes, there are builders that are not goodpilots and barely if ever fly what they build. If"go fly"is boring, I guess itmakes sense to stay home building and tuning nitro stuff that will rarely flyanyway.

Gerry

Building is building....</p>

Doesn't matter if the plane is powered by glow or gas or electric, or steam, or... or... or a mouse on a treadmill. (I'd personally like to see that one!)</p>

You still have to build straight and true. Keep an eye on your weight... make your glue joints tight...  All that good kind of stuff.</p>

When it comes to building, glow and electric each present their challenges, and their advantages. </p>

It still boils down to.. a well built plane flews well, a poorly built plane doesn't.</p>

   I too fly both and enjoy them equally. As far as calling electric set ups expensive, which I have done myself. Think of the way it was told to me just yesterday. With the glow you buy a gallon fuel and go fly, for electrics when you buy the batteries you are in essence buying fuel in bulk. Yes remembering to charge and store lipos is a hassle. On the other hand so is spending ten minutes at the end of the day cleaning goo off every part of the plane you touch, or might come into contact with my car. </p>

   My first couple planes were electrics and the biggest problem I had was operating the throttle because when you can't hear it, it's kinda hard to determin what in-puts you need to make. With my glow plane I can hear the engine and can tell when I need more power, when it's at idle etc. Maybe thats just me.  </p>

   On a final note, I just love the smell of nitro. S </p>

  </p>

I do want to point out one thing about cleaning up after a day of flying glow. Like everyone else, I sometimes wish I didn't have to do it. However, on more than one occasion I've found an issue that needed attention/maintenance while cleaning the private parts of my plane - I'm absolutely positive it would have been a long time before noticing any of this had I not needed to wipe down my plane. I think it's safe to say that the clean up at the end of the day is where you really get to know the condition of your plane, and really knowing your plane is a good thing.

I fly both and out of a necessity let me say <div>Our club and the country where I live have strict rules and regulations, no nitro before 8am, btw 12 and 2pm, and after 8pm.<div>So during these times, we can fly only electric, obviously because of noise issues....</div></div>

I once saw a guy trying to start his fuel plane for at least 20 minutes.

In the same amount of time I flew two sorties.

I don't like breathing fumes any more than I have to - or having to clean an oily plane.

Seems dangerous as well- you have to adjust the thing while its running- just inches from the spinning prop.

From observation it seems fuel plane enginesstallmore often. Usually with my electrics there is some sort of warning that the battery is cashed (like an engine pulse) although I don't always notice it right away.

Then there is carbon footprint- and yeah I know batteries are toxic too but you can recycle them and fuel planes also need batteries to run..

You have to lug the fuel around- and maybe that starter thing- looks heavy too.

And of course at least two of the four places I fly only allow electric anyway.

True, True gaRCfield, but vibration is virtually nonexistent on an electric plane, so there's MUCHless wear and tear. Regular inspections should be done regardless of the type of power you choose, just common sense.
Don't get me wrong, I still love fuel powered planes, I just don't fly them anymore.
'I love the smell of Nitro in the morning. Smells like...............Victory!!!!!' Oh, wait! that was napalm.........

I once saw an electric esc catch on fire in midflight, I laughed and started the TT up with two flips.


And who really cares about the carbon footprint?

I saw a guy at my field flying a large electric 3D plane, he smoked his Castle Creations 125A ESC in mid hover! He'd flown the plane several times before, and his setup only pulled 90A max. Something just went wrong on this occasion. He was lucky it didn't burn up his plane or damage his LiPo packs!

I rarely have problems starting my nitros. The trick is to prime them first before you fire them up. With no glow starter applied to the plug, open the throttle all the way, put a finger over the exhaust, and spin the prop until fuel starts to spray into the carb. Then put the glow starter on the plug and spin the prop again, she'll fire right up.

People with conciouses maybe. People with lung diseases. A lot of people thought recycling was silly and never bothered to but they came around.

<span style="font-size: larger;"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;">Each of us have stories about EP or GP, good or bad. To each his own I say. I still fly 90%EPand 10% GP. No matter what I still like my TT46 and my Jett Q500 engine. Its just apples and oranges ...

My friend's brother is a good builder, be it scratch or kits ... I will not even trust him to fly a 40 sized trainer! Hahahahahaa ... but he is a darn good builder.</span></span>

so you charcge your lipo's with solar now?

Good one! But I'm sure your concious (sic) is bothering you for calling him on it.

If I ever use up all my glow fuel, I'm going to fly strictly gas (spark ignited) larger planes, and small electrics. I can do that now, but I have too many glow planes! So much fun, so little time.
Dave Olson

Consience doesn't have much to do with it when you actually know the facts. The carbon emissions of a nitro engine are almost nill. It's almost all methanol anyway.

Burn methanol, get CO2 and H2O. Insignificant so far as our activities are concerned.