Beveling Basics help
11-01-2009 | 05:25 PM
#1
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From: Germantown,
TN
Beveling Basics help
I am at the point where I need to bevel my elevators before hinging. The plans called for doing the "1/8" inch measurement then using a straight plane (which I have) to bevel at a 45 degree angle to the 1/8 line. I tried this on a spare block of balsa and was surprised how difficult this is to do. Since I've put a lot of time in building the elevators, I wish not to have to start over for what looks to be something simple (but isn't).
I'm sure this is in the forums, but why not just cheat and get a piece of correct sized tri-stock and glue it on? This would give you a perfect bevel, no hassles. Sounds too easy so maybe I am missing something. Is this method acceptable?
I'm sure this is in the forums, but why not just cheat and get a piece of correct sized tri-stock and glue it on? This would give you a perfect bevel, no hassles. Sounds too easy so maybe I am missing something. Is this method acceptable?
11-01-2009 | 05:29 PM
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From: Houston, TX
RE: Beveling Basics help
ORIGINAL: jigeye
I am at the point where I need to bevel my elevators before hinging. The plans called for doing the ''1/8'' inch measurement then using a straight plane (which I have) to bevel at a 45 degree angle to the 1/8 line. I tried this on a spare block of balsa and was surprised how difficult this is to do. Since I've put a lot of time in building the elevators, I wish not to have to start over for what looks to be something simple (but isn't).
I'm sure this is in the forums, but why not just cheat and get a piece of correct sized tri-stock and glue it on? This would give you a perfect bevel, no hassles. Sounds too easy so maybe I am missing something. Is this method acceptable?
I am at the point where I need to bevel my elevators before hinging. The plans called for doing the ''1/8'' inch measurement then using a straight plane (which I have) to bevel at a 45 degree angle to the 1/8 line. I tried this on a spare block of balsa and was surprised how difficult this is to do. Since I've put a lot of time in building the elevators, I wish not to have to start over for what looks to be something simple (but isn't).
I'm sure this is in the forums, but why not just cheat and get a piece of correct sized tri-stock and glue it on? This would give you a perfect bevel, no hassles. Sounds too easy so maybe I am missing something. Is this method acceptable?
Yes! Pick up some 1/4" tri-stock. It works fine.
11-01-2009 | 05:39 PM
#3
RE: Beveling Basics help
I picked up several pieces of 90 degree angled aluminum stock from my local Home Depot. Pic 1 shows one with 80 grit paper glued to one edge using 3M77 spray adhesive. Pic 2 is with it on edge exposing the sand paper. I can use this as a 90 degree sanding fence or flip it over to sand an angled surface. This one does NOThave equal length sides so it won't make a 45 degree angle. Use one with equal length sides and the resulting angle will be 45 degrees.
11-01-2009 | 06:02 PM
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From: Sailing in the Eastern Caribbean
RE: Beveling Basics help
I do this by marking the centre line of elevator edge then marking the top and bottom to give the desired angle.
Using a razor plane [ if you do not have one go out and BUY ONE NOW ] with the cut set very thin it is an easy job to plane to the lines and do a neat job. The key is getting a good job is getting the plane set to just remove a very thin cut and eyeballing the job as you go.
Using a razor plane [ if you do not have one go out and BUY ONE NOW ] with the cut set very thin it is an easy job to plane to the lines and do a neat job. The key is getting a good job is getting the plane set to just remove a very thin cut and eyeballing the job as you go.
11-01-2009 | 09:07 PM
#6
RE: Beveling Basics help
I use a similar method. Mark the center of the surface LE then where I want to angle to on the top and bottom. For larger surfaces I may use a plane or hobby knife to remove some material then follow up with a sanding bar and 80 grit. On thinner surfaces I just use the sanding bar. Coarse sandpaper cuts through balsa like butter. Sometimes as I get it close I will switch to a finer grit.
11-01-2009 | 09:37 PM
#7
Senior Member
RE: Beveling Basics help
Long ago I made several sanding jigs to suit various angles, 45 degrees being one of them. I used 1/8 ply about 3-4" long, glued together to provide desired angle with a pc of ply that angle attached to back to maintain the shape which also forms a handle when in use. Have come in handy many times over the years.
11-01-2009 | 10:06 PM
#8
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RE: Beveling Basics help
First thing I do is use a center tool on the LE then cut my slots or holes for the hinges, then I mark the top and bottom with a line where I want the angle and use an electric palm sander to get my bevel. I have done a lot of them so the sander is just how I do them, I also use a palm plane once in a while then sand. I have used angle stock on more then one build too. How ever you want to do them is the correct way.
11-02-2009 | 12:17 PM
#10
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RE: Beveling Basics help
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
Excellent point GB - ''cuttin' the slots'' B4 ya bevel the piece. Thinkin' that that suggestion comes for some personal experience
.
Excellent point GB - ''cuttin' the slots'' B4 ya bevel the piece. Thinkin' that that suggestion comes for some personal experience
.
11-02-2009 | 12:28 PM
#11
RE: Beveling Basics help
GB - me too. Easier to correct any major CG or assembly issue B4 covering. I also do a lateral balance and epoxy necessary wing weights b4 covering too 'cause weight of covering doesn't affect lateral balance.
11-02-2009 | 04:20 PM
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From: Grand Blanc,
MI
RE: Beveling Basics help
I have a sanding block made from a piece of 1x6 about 1 ft long. One edge is beveled 45 deg and the other edge is beveled 30 deg. I put a strip of 100 grit sticky-backed sandpaper on each edge.
It is similar to the last two pix on this page.
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ing_blocks.htm
It is similar to the last two pix on this page.
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ing_blocks.htm
