So i picked up a couple of planes in a trade that have been sitting for some time. Anything i need to do to prep the engines? What about oil? do rc engines use oil? what kind? etc.

Thanks!

Any pictures?

Oil comes pre-mixed with the fuel you buy.

Read these articles:

http://www.masportaviator.com/ah.asp?CatID=8&ID=46

http://www.masportaviator.com/ah.asp?CatID=8&ID=47

http://www.masportaviator.com/ah.asp?CatID=8&ID=95

http://www.masportaviator.com/ah.asp?CatID=8&ID=54

http://www.masportaviator.com/ah.asp?CatID=8&ID=70

RC engines use a mixture of methanol, oil (castor or synthetic) and usually nitromethane. if the engines youve bought are used, put some afetr run oil in before you turn them over as the lube in the fuel can't protect an engine that is completely dry. Follow this link, http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ines/index.htm, there is some good reading there.

You should get some good advice from this forum also. Good luck and enjoy!

I'd get some Rislone at the auto section of the local big box store. Put some in through the carburetor and through the glow plug hole. Put a prop on the engine and wiggle it around until every thing turns nice and free. Check to see that the needle valve is not clogged up. If it is, put some Rislone through it. Now you are ready for fuel and fire and getting the engine running.

If you have some fuel,,that will free most engines up fine....pull the plug as said...pour some in the plug hole, fill the carb, make sure it turns freely too, remove the needle valve and put it in there too.....spin it over, if there is resistance than work it back and forth until it spins over,,dont look down the hole or you'll get an eye full......Rog

they are OS max FP .25 and .35 engines.
the .25 turns over good and has good compression throttle lever moves pretty well and so does the needle but could use a cleaning
the .35 doesnt have a plug in it so no idea on compression the carb is gunked up throttle lever wont budge.

WD-40 is pretty good at dissolving gunk.

A little heat from a heat gun can sometimes help the oil/fuel, etc. cut thru the gunk. Slowley work the prop back and fourth gradually dislodging the varnish from the piston and crank. You will may have to remove the back plate to soak from inside. I would do this as a matter of course as most of the stuff/gunk/dirt,etc. will be accessable from the back.

Seafoam is your best friend man, I absolutely SWEAR by that stuff, it's kind of hard to find, usually at auto parts stores, but drizzle some on the carb, it'll be clean, fire one of those engines up and drop in a little seafoam in the carb as it runs, it'll run like it's brand new. Then, when your done, pour the rest in your cars gas tank and by the next time you fill up you'll be mapping out the places that carry it.

AFAIK the FP's all used a cast iron piston and steel liner so should have been run with castor in the fuel. If so then the castor is gummed up and I've found acetone to be the fastest thing to loosen gummy castor but once freed up you need to flush it with fuel before the acetone evaporates to keep it free. The one thing that nothing (including acetone) can get at is the wrist pin area. If that's gummed up, and it will be, you need to remove the back plate, invert the engine and fill the inside of the piston with acetone or fuel then try sliding the rod along the wrist pin until it comes free. I use the short end of a small allen key to pull the rod back then push with a finger. If this isn't freed up then the wrist pin will rotate in the piston and wear out the piston holes.

If you have a ball bearing engine with rust do not run it until after the rust issue is taken care of (replace bearings in most cases). Nothing will take out a piston and liner quicker except a rel lean run.

didnt think to use seafoam. I build bikes and love the stuff. Would it be safe to oven the back plate and soak the insides with seafoam and move the piston?

I also use Seafoam in lots of applications but there is no substitute for making sure things are really clean and a simple "soak" would not be satisfactory for me. Dirt, Gunk varnish, etc. will damage your little engine in a heart beat, much of the things found in old engines will do lots of damage in a short time......Clean is best and there are no real good short-cuts.