I might replace my NT-16 engine and I was wondering what crank it is?

It's in my TR4

From the pictures on CEN's website it looks like a regular shaft with a slide carb.

NT-16 is a Standard Threaded Shaft. Soon to be released is our NX 3.0 .18 engine. Comes with an anodized blue head. ABC construction and retails around $199.99-$210.00. Part # is G70356.

Regards,
CEN RACING

Here is a link to a picture of the engine I just metioned.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...d.php?t=181270

will that engine work with the NT-16?

Thats the megatech Neo isnt it (except its 18)? heh.

is that cen 18 just the 16 with the .18 sleeve and cylinder from their marine 18? but with a pretty head on it.

if u want a cheap 18 then fit the sleeve and cylinder from the marine one in ur 16, it works fine apparently, not as powerful as some major brand 18s, but better than the standard 16....u pays yer money....

Actually no,

Its the same size crank case as the .16 as all other .18 engines. The difference between the .18 marine engine and the one in the picture is the construction of the piston and sleeve. The Marine engine is nickel plated. This one is True ABC construction. And yest it has a nicer cooling head. Quite attractive imo. This engine is quite powerful, out team drivers are very impressed.

It will fit any where a small block engine will fit. Perfect up-grade for .12-.16 trucks, cars etc.

Regards,
CEN RACING

Alrighty, so basically same head as the megatech Neo and K12... is this an SH made for CEN i can assume?

rccars411,

Actually we are the only ones with that particular head design as of yet. We make this head for other engines, such as O.S. engines, nova rossi, and the HPI .12. In various colors.

CEN RACING

Is this turbo plug or regular plug? Can you post HP and torque numbers?

Thanks

hey just wondering did ant one try putting the marine .18 piston and sleeve into nt 16 engine if so let me know id like to do this to my mt2.
im running 25 fuel how mant gallons should i get between rebuilds.
thanks mad mark

Yes you can use the piston and cylinder to turn the 16 into an 18. The horsepower is about the same but there is a slight increase in torque.
Further details are listed in this forum or on wildhobbies.com forum I don't remember which.
Time before rebuild varies on how the engine is treated, which fuel is used, what the oil content of the fuel is and the after run procedures if any are used.

i use model technics [ only fuel my model shop sells ] 25% with average oil content .
could u explain to me the after run procedure this is the first i ve heard of this. i dont use any.. is this bad and does this increase the wear on my engine .
could someone tell me about the temp nt 16 should run , i use the spit test and when i run my truck around high end needle 2.5 turns from close it still boils the spit off within 2 seconds if i run any leaner it seems to sluggish , i normally use my truck on road which means flat out on straights stop turn around hit the gas back up the way [ get air off kerbs ] is it the flat out on the straights thats causing my truck to run hot, its never cuts out due to overheating.
oh ya thanks for the info on marine piston ,sleeve you think more torque , is it possible to pull wheelies then with this mod.

thanks very much for info please get back to me with any new mods ,trick, tips
madmark.

just a simple question will guys discontinue model very quickly and will thr parts still be availble........................because i first got into rc cars trucks with kyosho alpa gp2 with gx 12 engine only problem go look for parts and im told their discontinued f*** GREAT.
tell me this wont happen and ill keeping buy CEN.

thank madmark

For me personally, if my car is going to sit longer than 1-2 weeks I will put a few drops of after run oil in the motor and down the carburetor spin the motor a few times and set the piston all the way to the bottom. At the end of every run I clean the air cleaner and set the piston all the way to the bottom.
Continuously running the motor flat out can cause over heating. You really shouldn't run the motor over 270 degrees Fahrenheit. Try richening the high speed up about an eight to a quarter turn.
The .18 conversion won't wheelie but will give you better speed going through grass and such.
I don't think that they are going to stop the Fun Factor anytime soon but I could be wrong. They sure don't promote it very much and their rep isn't very helpfull. My LHS is about to quit doing business with them because of this ( can't type what the owner of the LHS said about the rep but trust me it wasn't nice).

MadMark,

We will always offer parts for our vehicles. Even if they are discontinued. However the FF series will be around for a while. We may introduce newer versions but we will not discontinue it anytime soon.

Rolland,

Sorry to hear about your LHS. Please forward me the information ( [email protected] ) and we will get to the bottom of it. Thanks in advance.

Kind Regards,
CEN RACING

CEN RACING,

Info sent via PM

Thanks Rolland

CEN RACING

hello once again ,can u give me some advice, i had abig crash with a herb the other day which caused the truck to flip 11,12 times ,it landed on the wheels and drove off perfect.
later on that day i noticed mt pinion spurs [ next to flywheel] were loose , also there seemed to be alittle bit off play around ----------behind the flywheel wnd between the eingine case around the spacer [thing located behind flywheel] i noticed a bit off fuel coming from here so i tightend up everthing and drove it ,and nothing came out anymore out but my diff does not appear to be working right very stiff more than normal and very grindy sounding ,opened it up but can not see much wrong[there is grease in there] could this be the cause of my pinion teeth loosing , iknow there is aone way bearing in there and that system is not working right .how i noticed this was ,when driving the diff would,nt work on gravel or tar .........on gravel when slowing down and turning it doesaloow one wheel to travel faster than the other .hence it skids out the hole time while turning .are the parts [diff,main shaft with spur in the end expensive].
could u think of anything else to check or any advice
thanks very much

desperately waiting madmark

madmark,


You want to make sure that your chassis, center shaft, rear shock tower, or rear brace is not bent. IF one of them are, it is possible that your pinion gear that goes to the rear differential is not meshing correctly with the differential main gear. Check it out. When you roll the car forward is it moving smoothly or making noise?

Regards,
CEN RACING

Cen

no the truck is noisy while pushing it , also if i lift the truck off the ground and spin the back left wheel one way the diff should work and spin the the back right wheel in opposite direction, but it wont !!!! make any sence to ye.Will i see easyly if the chasis is bent and causing this ,can this do damage the engine by persistently using it like this.
I might go to my lhs and get new shaft withspur on it and try this.
One thing that i thought that felt wrong was there is play between the shaft and plastic diff case when put together again which is allowing the spur to make bad connection with the main diff spur, is it possible the plastic outer casing is worn allowing the two spur[shaft and main] to skip.

thanks for help hope this is'nt to hard to follow

sincerly madmark

MadMark,

The rear Diff will only "Diff" If you are holding the spur gears while turning the back left tire. Try that. if the other "right side" tire diffs while holding the spur gears in place. then everything should be fine in that area....

CEN RACING

w'll uh, i have 3 things. on the cen website theres the link to the "factory" fun factor. can you buy that truck? i havent seen it anywhere. oh, and the engine on it, its a .21 right? and the other thing, you guys should use engine head buttons like other engines. i dont know if you guys dont becasue most of your engines are small, but its cheaper to buy a new button rather than a cooling head becasue you stripped the spot where the glowplug goes.