After running with some buggies and truggies at the local track, I decided to bring my Genesis down from it's Monster truck status and make it just a truck(if that's possible). I took off the top shock on the front and back. Removed the shock spacers to lower it a little(it doesn't roll as much) and now I'm trying to figure out how to get it lower. I've seen that picture of the factory teams racing Genesis, but without a picture off, or some info, I don't know how they got it so low. That's the least of my problems...what pipes fit on this truck? I broke the piece that holds the exhaust line on the muffler(don't ask me how). I've read around the board and found some threads about removing something out the inside of the stock motor. I took a look in mine...what are you guys talking about? Also, where can I get the wheel hubs to put 40 series tires on my truck?

I'm looking at the truck to try and see what else I need...oh...shock oil..what weight?

People have been complaining alot about the Genesis on this board. How it breaks, cheesy parts, slow, etc. I must say, even stock with 20% fuel, it held it's own against all types of truck and buggies with modified this and upgraded that. LST's, Hot Bodies, Ofna's, Kyosho's; you name it, it was there. Besides handling the jump and the sharp turns, it was one of the few trucks that didn't have a broken part when the day was over.

After having the truck for about 2 months and basically being married to it to get it running the way it does; I must say, I love the thing. I've seen plenty of these other trucks running at the track, they all break, they all have bad days. It's not just Genesis trucks, they all break parts, they all stall and won't start back up, you name it, they all do it. In the beginning, me and my truck had a hate relationship...now it's nothing but love.

Hey there mate, good to see you racing the Genesis. Be sure to let everyone know how you get on.
As for the problems you are having, I think New Era Models did a pipe that would fit the .46. Might be worth a quick look around their site. The wheel adapters, as far as I am aware, have not been released yet. CENs' website has more info on them. http://www.cenracing.com/frame.html That should be a link to them, they are in the new products section.
Shock oil would kind of depend on the track you are racing on. If the ground is very bumpy and uneven, use a lighter weight oil to help the truck stay level over the ruts. If the ground is level, maybe a thicker oil would be best. If you e-mail Andrew Smolnik, he will tell you the set up he uses on his racing Genesis. Hope this helps.

I gutted my exhaust pipe, can't wait to see how that turns out. I broke the nipple on the exhaust, went to replace it, but I don't know what size it is. Does anyone know what size I can get that will fit into the pipe without having to use glue or anything?

Also, shock oil weight....what are you guys running?

I'm using 30WT in all my shocks.

Here is another post where another way to lower it is shown:
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2881391/tm.htm]Need stiffer springs for modified Genesis_ - 4/16/2005[/link]

I kept the top shocks and Jected did not.

"I attached the bottom of the 8 shocks to the overhead shock tie rod end mounting holes on the lower A arms. I mounted the tie rod ends to the lower knuckle hinge pin point using the long screw(s) from the original shock mounting point. This has lowered the truck about an inch and the shocks have a lot more leverage."

I orginally did this with the stock shocks and A arms. I am now using , I believe, "Savage" size alum shocks as Jected shows which required spacers inside the shocks to shorten them.

Thanks Twin! I saw that post a while back, but I couldn't figure out what was going on there. It also threw me off because you have a quad shocks setup where the stock only has dual. I'm curious as to why you kept the top shock and jected didn't? I took mine off, but for some reason in my head, I think for racing, it would be better to have it on to keep the truck balanced in the turns.

Jigga2177,

To take a lil monster out of your truck and bring it down to race status here are the steps being taken by our team drivers

1. Remove the horizontal shocks over the shock towers (which you've done)
2. Remove the bumper apparatus except for the vertical chrome piece.
3. Disable Reverse by removing the reverse gears and replacing with a spacer. (I believe the exact details on how to do this are somewhere else on the site)
4. Install an extremely high torque/speed servo such as an Airtronics 359 for steering. (it doesn't hurt to put in something with a lil more speed for the throttle as well.
5. Put those 40 series wheel adapters on as soon as they come out...they should be out soon. Until then I would go with our 55 series and our "like" bowtie tires.
6. It is up to you which stiffness you use but our guys have been running white springs all the way around. (I believe they are kyosho 1/8th scale buggy springs)

If anyone else knows of other "go fast" tips that I've omitted please post them here. I think I nailed it pretty solid but I know there's always something more that can be done.

Thank you all for your continued support,
CEN Customer Service

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

Ok, I got the shock off, working on removing the reverse next time I have to break down the truck. I currently have a JR Radio's DS8611A for steering and a Z650M for throttle/brake. It's not helping me much with the brakes, still rolling to a stop. I ordered the wheel hubs from new era models to give them a try. I don't know where to get those 55 series wheels or tires online. I'll try the Kyosho springs to get a feel for them, see if they make the truck a little more stable. I still come pretty close to rolling over on the turns. I'm going to try to use the 40 weight shock oil along with the white springs.

Thanks again for the help guys.

I found this thread on how to lock the transmission:

Removing Forward / Reverse:

REMOVE: GS069 shift lever, GS086 reverse gear. REPLACE GS086 with a second GS054. Then minimal shimming is needed.

This locks the transmission into forward.

Per Andrew Smolnik

Does this mean I need to put two GS054's on the shift unit? I tought I could use the lock block to do this?

Here is a picture of the reverse shaft with the two GS054s installed.

Now pictures...[8D]

Is it just me...or are these CEN guys getting better by the day?

where can i get the Matrix buggy online

I'm not sure that question fits in this thread.[sm=pirate.gif]

Do you mean these Kyosho springs?

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT925&P=7]kyosho springs[/link]

jigga,

I'm gonna run that pic by Andy and I'll have an answer for you regarding the springs a lil later in the day.

What about diff-lock oil? What's are you guys using in there?

Ok, here's what mine looks like now. I put on two bearings and the spacer that was on there. Is this enough or too much?

That looks good jigga.
I am using 5,000 in the front diff 20,000 in the center and 1,000 in the rear diff.


William Copley
CEN Racing

Hello. I was just wandering what to do to keep my front tires on the ground. When turning if I get on the throttle hard the truck has so much torque that it lifts 1 front tire way up off the ground and the other tries to pull straight. For instance, if I turn hard right and get on the throttl hard then it will pick up the right front tire off the ground, like several inches off the ground and the left will try to pull it straight then. Is there a fix for this or do I just need to ease up on the throttle when turning?

Thanks
Robert

I have just bought myself a CEN Gen. LE. I ran 1 tank of 20% with no batteries installed and of course no electrics on. Engine idled perfectly, just as described in the operation manual (step 13) found on CEN website.

Step 13. Proper engine break-in is very important to achieve the highest possible performance and reliability
Allow yourself some time to properly break-in the engine. This is one of the most important steps to follow so take your time. Do not run the engine at high RPMs until it is completely broken in. It is usual for the engine to stall, run inconsistently, and even foul glow plugs during the first couple of tanks. If this is happening to yours, don’t worry about it too much. It is a normal step in running any nitro powered R/C car. All of this will go-away when your engine is broken in well.

However when I came to run the 2nd tank through, with new fuel 25% and batteries install and electric on, the truck decided it didn't want to sit and idle like before it just tried to take off down the street at pretty much full throttle.

I don't know much about the Airtronics MX-3 Radio System, therefore don't know the correct setting nor what I am doing when trying to set it. The current setting of the transmitter is 88/75.95 MHz.

I have not played with the carb. settings bar the idle. I don't understand why the 1st tank ran through perfectly with no radio system, then the 2nd played up with radio system on unless the settings are incorrect on the radio??

Please help anyone, don't know anything about what I doing with this truck. My last truck (Smartech Magic Wheel/T-Maxx) is a toy compared to this one. Any helpful hints would be great.

Got mine already broke in. Just trying to keep all 4 wheels on the ground when turning and hitting the throttle..lol...Any advice?

Robert

Unfortunatly not, I have only idled the first tank through this one, when I came to idle the 2nd I didn't have a problem with keeping the wheels on the ground, however controlling it and keeping it at idle is difficult. [] [:@]

Actually thinking about it, I don't think there is any fix for this problem, just easing off the throttle a little while corning may just do the trick. Had the same problem with my old truck, if you put the power down to early while corning not only did the front wheels come off the ground but sometimes you would have to run down to it and flip it back over off its roof.

I havent had to flip it over but when going around a turn and getting on the throttl e hard you can see how much torque this thing has...lol.. It doesnt even act like it wants to flip on over though, or at least it hasnt yet anyway..lol

Robert

Oh yea, I cant say much for the idleing issue you are haveing. I didnt have that problem. However, I have noticed that at the moment it seems I have to stay on top of the tuneing procedures. This truck seems like it gets faster after every tank. And the funny thing is that I havent even seen it hit 3rd gear yet. I have heard when it hits 3rd it is really moveing..

Robert