i cant get the damn scres out. i wasted a crap load of butane and just got oneloose. anyone got any bright ideas how to get 3 stripped screws out now lol. i dont think jesus himself could get those screws out

if you have an electric stove you will not have to worry about running out of butane, be sure to use a good quality driver..if that still does not work then get a [link=http://www.aldn.com/grabit/]Micro Grabit[/link] to remove the screws. If that still does not work then you will have to drill the heads of the screws off and trash the diff housing.

Hope this helps..

i just had to drill the heads off of the screws. how much does a new diff cup cost??

Whitaker, [link=http://www.toyhaus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=BASK]About this much!![/link] or [link=http://www.headrushhobbies.com/estore_dtl.aspx?pid=140&catn=Genesis/Nem%20Parts]this much.[/link] or for ten dollars more you will get [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/GENESIS-NEMESIS-GST-7-7-6-Gear-ALUMINUM-DIFFERENTIAL_W0QQitemZ140075926650QQihZ004QQcatego ryZ44028QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]extra parts(drive cups, bevel gears ect)[/link] and one more shot(practice) at heating the case and opening the diff.


Good Luck-Have fun!!!

yeah i like the idea of the extra parts, but then i would bein the same position of trying to get those screws out of the other one aswell. thanks for your help. everytime i would put gst diffs in google it would just pull up the truck itself say ing that it has them. i couldnt find were to buy the parts themselves. thanks again.

Will locking the centre diff make the truck run truer?

I find that on asphalt or concrete the nose lifts, more power goes to the front, eventually one front wheel will lift, tyre expands and throw it off of line.
Its a real challenge to keep the thing straight.[]

I would have thought locking the diff will mean the front and rears are spinning at the same rate.
But I am concerned about tearing up drive trains.
I am not after moretraction so much as being able to controlling the thing.

I may try the thickest diff grease first.
Will this help, or is the only way to go would be to lock it???

Hey ScottGTR, I have to tell how nice it is to see someone use the search feature to dig up these old threads on a subject that has been questioned to death!!!!! I personally would be more inclined to answer a question this old thread rather than start a new thread on the same subject, again!!!!!!

Officially, unless your center diff is locked you will always spin/balloon the front tires upon excessive accelleration. Unless of course, you have a racers throttle control.

When power is applied the front wants to lift, and when you input too much throttle, the front tires will want to pull off the ground(wheelies!) However, if your center diff is open(unlocked) the minute the front wheel or wheels lift, the center diff will unload and send the MAJORITY of the engines power to the front and "overspin"(ballooning) the front tires and no longer propelling the truck forward because the fronts are spinning and rears have alot less power sent to them. Now you could counter that loss of power if you put heavier diff fluid in the center diff. However, no matter how thick the fluid is(unless its over 500,000wt) the fronts will always unload and "overspin". Thats where throttle control is required.

So,, it stands to this reasoning that if you lock the center diff, you will get even power to the front and rear. No matter which wheel is lifted/unloaded, you will see a marked improvement in power transferr as well as awsome wheelie potential!!! This setup is great for bashing, but the racer boys want a small amount of differential action to improve handleing on track. I run my Nemesis on track once in a while and I find a fun as hell to keep up with some of truggies in the straights and outpower them out of the corners, pulling away with the suspension squatting and the tires digging in hard!! But entering corners is still a challenge, I just need more practice on the track.. I dont do too bad tho..

Now, when I run on asphalt or concrete, this truck feels like it is on rails. With my sway bars and shock setup, the truck squats and the inside front tire lifts under power and pulls like a banshee around corners, without unloading the inside tire.
That means I can put full power down to the surface without upsetting the trucks cornering set, maintain more speed out of the coreners!!!
That is badass to experience from a 4wd monster truck!! And since you no longer are unloading the tires in an unbalanced manner the truck runs a whole straighter and more predictable!!

I hope this helps!!!!

Dogman,

Thank for your reply.

I think I'll give locking the diff a go, unless I can find some 500,000wt.

But reading your reply, I was very intrigues to read you have sway bars!
Did you fabricate them your self, of convert something from a buggy???

A have been wanting to try one on the rear to keep her level through the corners.

So where did you get yours?

Scott GTR, I am actually building a few sets for people. They are going to be $15.00 + Shipping for a complete set(front and rear 2mm-3mm each) Interested?? [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5643394/tm.htm]You can see pics here!! See Post #24[/link]

If you are interested, send me a PM.

Hey Scott GTR,

I have been contemplating the same question myself. In response to my search for some heavy shi.... you may want to check out Blitzekriecs' response [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5659095/anchors_5680813/mpage_2/anchor/tm.htm#]here post #26[/link].

Regards, .46NitroAddict [>:]