What are those going to be made out of and how much will they cost.

6061 aluminium alloy, unless im mistaken, and cost is not yet decided.

pm replied to DrH.

Everyone is gonna need a set of these!

With all the mods listed in this thread, plus the aluminum cases, plus an RC Solutions roll cage.....bomb proof!

and bloody heavy!

should i measure up a set of big block mounts....? ur gonna need some substantial motor to carry all this bling around!!

I think I will be alright with OS.18 and stock MT2 gear ratio...

If you and Dr. Honda want to make big block mounts I will draw them up...as long as I get to keep a prototype for when my OS gets old.

I dunno about you all, but once ive got alum cases, the only other thing i can think of to mod is to add a big block...
I'd be in if you guys do it.

how about a 6061 chassis with mountings for a 1/8 buggy centre diff? would that be any use to anyone?

Alright - Here are the new drawings

Things I changed:

1) Mounting holes on the front. Deleted top hole, added hole in center of other two mounting holes, offset bottom hole to compensate for bumper mount.

2) Added locating pin and holes on back for rear aluminum brace.

3) Added more mounting holes for tie rod mounts

4) All holes (where possible) are thru. holes. 3mm x 0.5 thread. All holes are chamfered both sides. (Any fastener length from any side for more options)

5) Checked measurements of shock tower mounting holes. Seem to be ok. Checked dimensions of piece with 4 shock tower mounting holes....appears also to be ok....drawing still looks funny. Left the locating pin off as I can not find the error to fix.

NOTE TO DR.HONDA - maybe the first set of cases, have your machine drill the 4 shock tower mounting holes like 0.25mm deep. Then place on your shock towers to see if all the holes lign up. If not you will have to let me know of the changes.


I'm happy with these drawings. Is there anything more that needs to be changed before I send them off?

LA

Hey, I am kinda new to the hobby, but I have a stock atx. I have already chewed up a spur gear, So I was going to buy the aluminum brake seat. I was wondering waht would be cheaper: buying the stock aluminum brake seat, or hiring the doc to make one. Thanks.

fredbobjoe

Probably buy. . .nothing against Dr.H but I dont think he is interested in making just 1 of something.

Tiny

Yeah ^^^. We keep the good Doc pretty busy with making aftermarket parts that arent available from anywhere else.
Soon he will have a monopoly on aftermarket FF parts.
Just step one in his plan to TAKE OVER THE WORLD... MUAHAHAHAHA

Doc should send me parts for my wedding gift

See ill buy the shock towers he throws in the hexes for the wedding huh huh sounds like a deal to me LMAO

Would cost you 1 day labour for me to draw, then another for Dr. Honda to machine, PLUS materials...

You could buy a new FF for that price

Dustin, you figured out my plan!! Curses!!

Boot machine…

The diff cases look great. The only problem is, they are not going to be easy to make. Hummm… Perhaps it’s time for me to fit a fourth axis to my machine. (it’s good for a tax write off)

Poorjudgment…

On your chassis drawing… is the over head view assuming the angle in the chassis, or is it a flat representation? Also… can you tell me what the actual angle is on the nose of the chassis? Just as a verification… the braces are flat… right? Lastly, is 3.2mm (1/8�) good for the chassis pan, or would you like to see it made out of something thicker?

The chassis are relatively easy to make… so I’m going to work up a prototype in the next few days. So… for all of you guys who wanted a JT chassis… be on the lookout for the ARO Products version. (thanks to Poorjudgment)

Just remember to claim a small profit every 3 years

ARO Racing Chassis - sssswwwwweeeeeeeeeetttttttt. Will that include the top plate where the fuel tank mounts and possibly a chassis brace?

the plan view is showing the flat chassis plate, with no kick up. now, there could be a little bit of tweaking to do in regard to the bend point (which i think i showed on the drawing) due to that point being tricky to measure accurately, alloy stretching etc, but the bend point ive drawn will be very close indeed if not spot on.

the angle is 30 degrees for the kick up.

yes, the braces are flat.

3.2mm should be fine for all parts in 6061 as the jt chassis is 3.2mm.

as for other bracings, all rebates in the chassis etc - we could do with knowing whether people want:

1. the rebates in the chassis and braces as per the jt design or a plain flat chassis (cheaper but not as funky)
2. extra holes for roll cages or whatever
3. any ideas as to changing the braces, making a single piece brace, or whatever ur thinking of

just some basic drawings on a photo would do to give us an idea - easier and quicker to understand than words!

Dr. Honda

I agree with you, those cases will not be easy to make... I will send you the drawings to start playing with this weekend.

The rest of you guys...your all crazy...I have not had a problem with chassis flex yet...I can only imagine how hard you guys bash.

...although...new longer chassis would be sweet.

As you making a chassis why not design a rollcage as well hell buy the time you guys have finished it wont be a cen car at all......

All hail the ARO Factor!!!!!!!!!!!!

suppose u want to see the jt rebates, cutouts and layout im on about... apols, here it is.

Bootmachine - no chassis flex?!?! ur kiddin surely? what with all these reinforcing mods, alloy brake seats etc? even the os 18 twists the chassis when u nail the throttle, not to mention its mounting plate! if DrHs chassis' turn out as stiff as the jt ones, theres no real need for the alloy brake seat for a start, and much less in the way of extra bracings.

just think - a nice juicy silver one of these could be urs... lol

That would be sweet if this all happens!
The Funfactor wil be the baddest truck around. Too bad its called the FunFactor[]
I have been looking for a JT chassis for a while now but couldnt find one so I bought azzmans top plates.
If you guys do this chassis, I'd be in. And you should think about a one piece top chassis like azzman had made but maybe a bit thicker and not as wide. and we've already got sweet towers.

Man, I might have to buy a third Funfactor now lol.

I've got a question for the Doc or anyone that knows i guess.
I built me a bit of a roll cage out of some kind of rod for airplanes. The cage works great and is fairly well indestructable. My problem is mounting it to the chassis. The rods are so strong it takes like 2 dremel blades to make one cut or it takes me a fair bit of effort to cut with bolt cutters (and I'm no small guy). BUT what i was planning to do was to bend about 1/2" on the ends and flattening the bent part to drill a hole to screw them to the chassis. The problem is, anything more thana 30 degree bend or so breaks them. Just too brittle. I ended up bending copper batterycable ends and soldering them on but damn is it ugly and the solder is prolly the weak point. Also, this type of rod is VERY hard to weld. I tried arc and mig with argon. The mig did it but not too nicely.

SO, after that boring monologue...

Can anyone reccomend some sort of rods or something that I can use for this purpose that I can bend and weld easier? or suggest a nicer looking way of securing the rods I have?

Thanks

I was going to use two squares of aluminuim to attach to the shock towers with 2 lots of 10mm wide aluminium flat bar to bolt onto that (just to make them easier to remove) The 10mm bar would bend up over the cooling head to protect it. A brace across running just underneath the 10mm bars and attached to them would finish it off and make it stronger. Also where it joined to the shock towers and the body I would place O rings on the bolts between the parts to take some of the shock.

The rod you have may be a high carbon steel or hardened steel which is harder to work with ( it gains hardness but turns brittle). Also trying to weld copper to steel is virtually impossible.

If you have access to mig then why not get some flat bar, drill holes in it and weld them to the rollcage.

I think that makes sense??????

Dustin: Use a different rod, you probably have some sort of high tensile or spring steel which is making it not easy to work with. G et some some mild steel or some stainless and go from there.

PJ: Bootmachine will have plenty of chassis flex, he's been lucky and it hasn't caused him any grief yet. TBH the JT chassis still needs the alloy brake seat to help it flex less, (it still flexes easily with minimal pressure if you hold it at each end and give it a tweak) but IMO if you have a full length top plate (or similar bracing) then the alloy seat is not needed. And remember you cant give it (the chassis) too much extra length as the driveshaft wont fit.

EDIT: Sorry Spentona, didnt mean to repeat you, posted at nearly same time! Flat bar makes sense to me too.

I guess I'll try to find some steel rod then.

Even with the stock chassis, with the alum brake seat, full top plate, and roll bar, I can't see any flex when trying to bend it by hand or over my knee or anything. I'm sure there still is some on hard impacts, but I think wiht all that stuff on a thicker chassis, we should be able to eliminate pretty much all of the chassis flex.

Dr h, you should go into the underground aftermarket part business