after stripping the screws and breaking some tools, I give up. I've been trying all morning to open my diff cases that have been what seems to be permenantly bolted into the diff casing. Guess I can't change my diff oil like some of you mentioned in other post. This locktight is becoming a menace.[:@]

go to radio shack and buy the soldering torch kit or use a torch lighter. thats the only way i removed those stubborn screws. it will require alot of heat to remove the green loctite, you will almost hear and see the loctite boil up around the screw, thats how you will know its time to remove it. be paitent though you dont want to destroy the o rings either.

Jombo Nailed it!!!!!!! Be Patient!!!!! Heat enough for the "Glue" (loc-tite) to melt... if you stripped the haed out already then you will have to carefully drill the head off. Don't drill so much that you drill all the way thru diff cover, but just enough to pry the diff cover off. Now, be sure you have enough of the screws left grab with vise-grip type plyers. Hea the screw and case enough to melt the loc-tite and turn counter clowise to remove remainder of the screws,, Be Patient!!!! I you do not have enough screw to grab then the party is over and you will have to order a new diff case and screws.... But Be Patient!!!!!

Ok, I'll try that. i have a soldering iron, guess I need the heat torch. It's the red locktight, I use the blue, easy to break without heat. I wish they didn't put that stuff on from the factory, but I guess someone has made a fuss about them not doing it in the past.

I got a set of alum nemmy diffs for my genesis. I used a butane torch and my snap on 3/8 drive hex's to get the screws out to change fluid. Thing is, I couldn't get 2 screws out of one diff.... At all...

Everything else went just fine, but theses 2 screws stripped to shreds. I gave up and just put the diff in with the stock fluid, but with enough patience and enough heat, it should be possible

I worked on the front diff and the rear diff with three seperate torches, I would heat a screw with one torch until the lighter was to hot then I would switch torches, after going through a lot of butane I gave up, having only loosed one screw after a couple of hours. I plan to try again sometime with a high wattage soldering iron. That locktite is the devil to get off.

i used a heat gun held it at a angle were i could hit the screw head and sides of the metal diff cup were the screws were located and i was able to remove the screws very easy buy hitting the side of the metal diff cup you are able to heat up more of the threaded area

so i'm not the only one stripping screws and throwing things....ok...maybe just me throwing.[:@]

I'm stuck with the stock in all three diffs....hate this locktight...it's the DEVIL I tell you!!!

nope, not the only one to throw things when things break, you just need to make sure that you dont break something else when you throw it. i look around before i throw it or i get a 10 lb rock hammer ( when in doubt use a bigger hammer)

hey this is a noob question

but i keep reading that people want to change their diff lube/grease?

why? what benefit's does this have on performance?

just curious


sounds like it's not worth the hassle to me!

but ya loctite is a pain sometimes, i dread the rc10 chassis because the screws are not recesed and they get all eaten up and crap, ive had to use a lighter a few times and a dremel to get em off

Using a thicker oil in the diffs provides a "locking action". For example a thicker oil won't let the wheels spin as much. If a diff has a lighter oil, when the car turns you can see that the tire that has less grip will unload more.

Usually a thicker oil in the front diff will provide more on power steering. Whereas a lighter oil will let your truck turn off power a little better. A starting point I like to use is run 10,000wt oil in the front diff/ 50,000wt in center/ 5,000wt in the rear diff. Feel free to experiment with what works for your track. But usually the center diff uses the heaviest oil. Hope this helps.