I tried everything to get a 3rd shift and nothing. I spent hours trying to lock out 2nd, (thinking that I might have a 1-3 shift) and nothing. So after some searching I looked up several of the posts on 2-3 "fixes" etc. After much reluctance, I removed the tranny and checked it out. I could have put in washers, but that's not really the problem, it is the center ball adjustments that needs to be perfect. It can only be done with the black piece out. Here's how to adjust it...

Squeeze the 2 shoes together, and adjust the center. Check how close that you are by rotating the center piece. Do this to both sides, zero slop. Now Cen says to back it out another 1/8th turn I did not, that will reduce the throw of the shoes, and I wanted maximum engagement. I adjusted the outer screws to the factory 7 1/2 turns out. And put it all together.

Bingo, 3rd shift every time, works great. Mine engages slightly early, but that can be adjusted by reducing to 7 or 7 1/4 turns or so on the outer screws.

I was thinking that was basically why the ".030 washer fix" worked. Only that adds weight. But it allows a small movement to lock the 3rd.

This "fix" allows everything to work as designed. Now in all honesty this isn't a fix, because nothing is wrong but an adjustment.

So, that's all folks, hopefully this will benefit somebody. BTW, 3rd hits HARD! And it's sweet hearing yeee, yeeeee, yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

nice ill have to try this out if when i run my car i dont hear 3rd gear..thanks

i fixed mine by adjusting all of them before even running them. what i did was put all the screws in and ajusted one at a time. first was the 1 -2 shift then the 2-3 shift. i dont remember the turns out but mine were screwed up at the factory. none of the screws were the same as turns out, so i think some of the problems people are having is the turns out are"nt the same i know i did.

In my case it didn't matter where the outer screws were adjusted. If the center screws are off by even a little bit, it just won't work right. But you are absolutely right. Check the outer screws first.

And my 2-3 shift is very precise/predictable, hits hard, and the tone is very noticable. Much better than the 1-2 shift which I thought was good.

On a side note it would be a great time to replace the center grease with Kyosho 500k diff fluid, or at least Associated 300k diff fluid. I would not use silly putty, as it is not a lubricant, and could break down, and wear out parts. Getting the screws out will be a challenge, some have baked the diff, others have used a soldering iron on the screws to break up the thread lock. I used a 1/2 in drive socket with about a 1" size to set it on, a hammer, punch, and a few good allen bits and torx T10 bits. Then replaced the screws. It was work and took a while, but I managed to get them all out of one side. I only have Ofna 120k diff fluid now, and it helps a little, but it needs much stiffer diff fluid. In racing 300k-500k wins races on big trucks for center diff fluid. The small blocks seem to like 300k-400k, so hands down 500k for this beast.

Damn I love my truck!!! It's cooled off by now, time to run her again.

I guess i'll be pulling the tranny, what a weekend.

Hmm i don;t ever hear my third gear either but my truck SEEM pretty darn fast. Should i take apart the tranny then and make sure? I guess it couldn;t hurt right?
Is this relitively easy to do?

Hey JUCD VPR,

1 more quick 1 before I go. Not saying you need to do this, but if you read my [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5754079/tm.htm#]post #4[/link] you will get the the answer to your question, regarding what you need to do when you test her out, & decide it is or isn't engaging 3rd!

Regards, .46NitroAddict [>:] Sorry this is so short - gotta run!...

Cool thanks again! Have a safe flight!

NO...

There is no way that I would do all that work without knowing for sure. To make sure do what I did. Tighten down the screws(outer screws) on the 1-2 shift making sure to count where it is set at. This will lock out 2nd gear.

Then drive it, if you can wind it out and not get a shift, then you should loosen each of the outer 2-3 bolts by say 1 turn, try it again. If you still don't get a shift then you need to take it apart. I highly recommend re-reading this post. I use zero slop and 7.5 turns on the outers and it is near perfect, I think that 7.25 turns would be perfect on mine. And I can't stress this enough, mine hits at the same spot 100% of the time from full cold to racing it through a tank. I think that I will adjust my 1-2 the same way, but I wanted to wait until my 500k center diff fluid got in.

I would also recommend the 500k diff fluid while you are in there, or at least run the locker.

OK i'm totally confused?

How and where do you adjust to lock 2nd gear?

So you suggest running the locker/ OK what is the locker and how do i run it? Install it whatever? I have the piece sitting right here, but i don;t know where it goes or how to install it.

In a nut shell if you hear a shift about 20-40 feet out at WOT then that is 2-3 shift. If you here a shift from inches to 5 feet out or so that is the 1-2 shift. If you are unsure still then read on.

You can lock 2nd gear by adjusting IN the set screws all the way. Look in the manual and it will show you where they are at. Make sure to count how far they need to go in. The standard setting is 5 turns. Also make sure that you are adjusting the correct screws. These will be on the sides not the easier to get at straight on ones. If you are unsure, than it is best to leave it all alone. Basically look at the manual for which screws to adjust. By tigtening these 2 screws, it won't allow those shoes to expand, thus it will be locked out. Of course when you are done, put the screws back to where they were.

Also, it is a great time to use 500k diff fluid if you can get it, if not then locking the center is also fine. This will give you power to the front and back at the same time. In the box there should be a small metal thingy. About 1.5 inches long and probably 3/4 in wide. Just remove the spider gears and place that in instead. I think that this is also in the manual. Now before you think about opening it you should know that those screws for the casing have permanent thread lock on them, and it will be a royal PITA to remove them. Somebody on here recommended the oven set to 250 degrees for 7 minutes did the trick.

When in doubt, come here and ask questions.

That guy needs to download the manual and start reading or take it to a professional cause he hasnt got a clue. I just put my center diff. lock in today , wont be able to run it till fri. 2 days. I'll let yall know how it does.

JUCD VPR,

I'm totally confused you own how many vehicles? and you have posted how many times? and you have never come across a locker? and you show that you own a GST?(Your manual explains this stuff)

I have seen you ask several questions like this in other threads. with your experience, I wouldn't think you would need to ask these things you do.. I think there is someone here that is baiting questions.

Everything that has been explained here has been explained time and time again, and you have read them and even posted to some them. This is not new stuff.

Just haven't figured out why yet??

debo208,
I see somethings wrong with your truck... It is waaaaaay to clean. LOL

Let us know how you like it with the locker, and if it affects your steering.

What would the center diff being locked have to do with his steering?? Does not affect steering. If he put the lock in the front or rear diff then that question would be valid, but how does the center locked have to do with steering??

Just a question?

For bashing there would be no difference or not enough to notice, racing is another story. Ususally it will make it push slightly more in a corner, but probably more due to the fact that the rear is also now powering it threw the corner, forcing the front faster. Think of it kind of like going slow with the wheels at full turn, then do it while it is going much faster. The slower it goes the tighter the steering. I don't know how much of a difference it makes on the GST, if any, which is why I was asking.

air,
Do you have a gst that you race or run on a track, with a locked center diff?? or is this theory? I have a nemesis with a center lock and this thing does NOT have a slight push!! I can dive that beast into a corner or pitch it around the high side(drift style with the right throttle timing) the best one is a power on exit out of the corner and the truck settles onto its haunches and blasts out of the corner after a slight power entrance into the corner. All this is very controllable and predictable on the genesis series trucks properly setup.

BTW what is your setup?

My point is, there are several people here in the forums that "educate" people about this setup and that setup, when they have never even tried those setups on those trucks. I agree, that usually it "might" cause a push in "some" setups, but unless you have personal experience with it then dont "educate" as as if you do/have. The same goes for the fellas that trash talk a product they have never owned.

Just curious,, not flaming..

Edit:
BTW my nemesis can and will overpower a corner if i'm not careful with the go fast trigger

Who's dissin the pinion plucker!?!?! [sm=48_48.gif][sm=punching.gif]

Monaroman, down boy!! He was not dissing my work he just needed an ownership testamonial "education".

I got it..

BTW thank you.

the only thing i noticed when i had the nemesis center locked was when i turned hard on the grass the wheeles would dig in the grass more and try to flip. but on the track it power slid around corners, i didnt like it locked because i like to use it on the grass and not at the track where its slippery. i actually like when the center diff unwinds when you hit the breaks and go into a grass high bite turn and dosent flip and does a ninty degree turn and keeeps going. anyway this is just my preference but i did like the power it had when it was locked. i guess thats the trade off if its locked or not that i found.

Nope no baiting going on here. I guess i just need to read the manual but i haven't been able to locate it, i'll search around for it and read up, out of all my trucks i've never had to install a locker. I know what a locker is but as far as installing one i'm a little lost. Like i said i'll just have to read up on it, I know alot about RC trucks but the GST is still new to me and i learn new things every day, i hate reading manuals, it bores me, but iin this case i guess it's needed.

So will installing the locker STOP my problem of breaking bevel gear shafts?

OOh by the way my truck seems to be shifting into thrid, still not 100% sure but i THINK i hear it.

Dogman,
Actually I am rarely on forums, I have the largest collection (short of a hobby shop) of RC vehicles in Louisville. I have been into RC for 19 years. I have my own track which at the moment is a dirt oval 91.5 feet long by 40 feet wide. I currently have 7 monster trucks. I have a room dedicated to RC that is bright Orange and about 22 feet long x 9 feet wide. I have raced in most classes on and off road. I also have a bike, a few boats, a couple of helicopters, and a few planes. And a crap load of RC cars from 18th scale to MT's. Most of the people on these forums have no where near the experience that I have. I have also built the worlds 2nd RC car dyno, utilizing parts from an F1 car, and making parts from my CNC machine, and writing all of the software. Usually I get in an argument with some kid about something that they have no clue about. Then I don't come back, why would I? I also couldn't agree more with your second paragraph.

So to answer your questions. I do not currently have a locked diff on my GST, which is why I was asking.
Not theory, just observations that I have made in the past from different setups.
Thanks for your experience.

nah, will probably do the opposite putting more strain on