So whats the deal? The right rear diff bevel gear shaft snapped in half AGAIN, it did this a few days ago, i did get about 2 hours of fun out of the GST before this happened and it was a BLAST. I took video but it's kinda crappy since i have to drive and tape at the same time, i'll make a vid out of it tomorrow and post it up here! Anyway SO why is this happening? Luckily i have the other side of the one i broke last week so i'll just take them apart and swap them out, but i don;t want to keep repeating this. Any suggestions? Nemesis diff? On e-bay they say genesis/nemesis diff and they look the same?

The Nemesis diffs have a alloy diff case, other wise they are the same. It could be that you put it back together wrong or you are getting a lot of flex in the diffs. I am not sure what else could be the problem, but if it is flex, than the alloy diff case should solve this problem.

Must be the flex then because there is no way i put it in wrong, it ran great for 2 hours with me bashing the hell out of it!

I am not sure if Understood your question correctly. Are you breaking the gear inside the diff or are you breaking the drive cup on the outside.

OOh sorry, its the shaft on that drive cup that is breaking, the right rear for the second time now, two totally different differentials.

The nemesis diffs come with the stronger drive cups.

Ahh good good! Thats what i need then! Now some say you need nemesis bulkheads to run the diffs, is this true or false? I have the GST 7.7 so they should fit right?

Anwhere else to buy them besides e-bay?

WWW.customrccars.com has them in stock for 69.00 with the bulkhead. the part number is gss07

Yes, it is true that you need the Nemesis Bulkheads, but on some of the latest GSTs they have the Nemesis bulkhead that has a green anodized spacer that takes up the extra space. So if you buy the Nemesis diff conversion, you will end up having spare bulkheads, always nice to have spares!

But as for the diff shaft shearing. Sometimes I seen people not properly adjusting the gear mesh of the internal bevel gears and this cause the broken outdrive as well. What I mean by this is if you reassemble the diff, rotate the outdrive and see if the diff is gritty or if it is fairly easy to turn. If the diff is really hard to turn, then two things might have to be done. First check to make sure the metal plate that holds the smaller bevel gears is properly seated in the slot, if that is fine and you still find the diff too hard to turn, then you might want to add one of the thin metal shim (GS221) between the diff case cover (GS060) and the Gasket.

Let us know how this works out for you if decide not to get the Nemesis diff upgrade. But I recommend the Nemesis diff upgrade for an ultra strong driveline.

This was a new Diff i installed, everything rotated smooth and no grit binding or anything so that couldn;t be the problem, but i'll keep that in mine when i take it apart.
I'll have to check my bulkheads and see if they have that green spacer, i really don;t want to spend 60 something bucks for a diff and bulkhead!

Thanks for the help fellas!

what oils you runnin? When I ran a locker with 10k up front AND rear I was snapping the same part as you about each tank or two. I have since changed to 1k in rear and it has stopped, I think the oil weights could go up all round (eg 30k front and 10k rear possibly) but while I'm still bashin each week I'm not changin till its tear down time

i run mine with the center unlocked and with thicker oil in the front and rear so i dont get that horrible one tire ballooning and breaking the cups. thats the problem i was having one tire would balloon and the cup would break, this engine has way too much power for one wheel to take. i would suggest some thicker oil in the front and rear than using the grease. i think the grease is 3000 or more so i would go up from there, i think i have 20k in the front and 25k in the rear, i dont remember it was a long time ago i will ckeck to see if i still have the bottles.

i got two nemesis diffs on ebay for 29 a pop
when i was first shopping around i saw one go for 6 dollars....

but there aren't many listed on there...here ill link you to my auction


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0666&rd=1&rd=1

email them and ask if they have any more....

alsoif u have the green spacers these fill fit in nicely....(as they did in my car)
but you will also need the screws that hold the diffs in place... on the left and right side (download the nemesis manual to see)

as the ones that screw into the plastic gst diff casing don't work..
if you have any more questions let me know

That eBay Seller almost always has the Nemesis diffs. if he does not when you look then go back later he will have them listed soon after the listing has either ended or been purchased.

find the listing [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/CEN-NEMESIS-Front-or-Rear-Differential-Gearbox-New-Diff_W0QQitemZ190105954594QQihZ009QQcategoryZ34063 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]HERE!!![/link]

Thanks for the help so far guys. I e-mailed Cen and they said they'll send me replacement cups, but i do need to upgrade soon. I bought 10K weight for the front ans 5K for the rear, thats what some were suggesting last month so i got it, but it looks like some of you are running alot thicker oil. My diffs are totally stock right now with the same ol grease they come with.

So i remember reading somewhere to bake the diffs in the over for a while to loosen up the screws, what temp and how long?

Hey JUCD VPR,

I'm using 120,000wt in rear and oem in front. Works pretty good for me so far!!

250 degrees F @ 15 minutes has been proven to work!!



EDIT: Got new smaller diameter wheels we'll see about diff juice, now...

Thanks for the temp info!

So is the 10K and 5K diff oil i order useless?

Not if you have a smaller vehicle...

yea order some new stuff and send the other stuff back.

So when you say smaller vechicle, should i use it in my E-Savage, E-Maxx, or Stampede?

What weight will be the best for my GST and my soon to be new LST2?

What about the grease in the diff case? Just leave it as it is, or add different grease? Or diff oil? ou just add the oil inside the actual diffs right? And use grease inside the plastic diff case?