Hey everyone,

I've been away for a while, but I am back. The FF MT2 is out of the closet, and almost ready to run again.

Only thing left I have to work on is the steering servo. For some reason it seems to be binding up when I engage the servo with my controller. The servo itself is fine, whatelse should I be looking at? Is there another way to mount the servo? I think I remember reading that guys are using the RC10 servo side mount? Or maybe I just made that up.

Anyway any help would be great!

If you have happened to use another servo mount, can you please post pictures if they are available? I would like to see how it is setup. Sorry for the n00b question.

Steve

Disconnect the linkage from the servo arm and see where its binding.. most likely its in the ackerman arm.. maybe a nut or bolt hitting the chassis or one of the linkages is not set the same as the other side.. there are not alot of parts on the steering system, so its a process of elimination..

Maybe its me, but the design doesn't make much sense of it.

Thanks Cenracer1. It looks like the joint of the piece that connects to the servo and the arm that connect to the steering is what is binding.

I did change the servos out before it sat on the shelf for a year or so. But it worked fine before it Sat. I still have the stock servo, but id really hate to put that back in.

I ran the Hitec hs645MG in there and never had a binding issue.. that servo had too much power and if it did bind, I wouldn't have noticed...

Dunno how well you can see it form this pic, but you can just get a set of Rc10GT servo mounts, drill two holes, and now you have the laydown steering servo.

What did you do to shorten the arm from the servo? I dont have the truck in front of my but seems like my arm is too long.

Dustin, kind of hard to tell where anything is because you changed alot of the truck.. I remember the chassis plate issues and they helped the spur gear mesh.. I went with a much stronger servo to combat the joke that cen supplied with the original FF truck.. here is the pic of mine, unfortunately this was taken before alot of the mods were done to it.. full T-maxx drivetrain, proline bow ties on 40 series wheels and OS 18CVRX...


here is a pic after the conversion, but sadly I don't have any with the body off..

I figured it out. Thanks guys!

Now my question is with a much strong servo why am I still getting crap for a turning radius? If I turn the wheels while the truck is off the ground I get a much better angle compared to when I am running it.

How much did it cost you to do a full TMAXX conversion? Would it just be easier to buy a TMAXX? I already have the OS .18 in it. I need to get all the metal gears, and shift kit in there. Right now I am running it as a 1 speed. I can't seem to keep the shift kit screwed it. Keeps falling out .....suggestions?

There are alot of things that are easier to do, but where's the fun in that!!!!!
If I remember it cost me about $80 and alot of fitting to get everything to work.. You have to graft the cen dogbones onto the traxxas plastic sliding shaft. .you have to replace the axle carriers with T-maxx ones and then you have to get T-maxx size wheels.. 14MM the cen uses 12... worked very well... Someone made adaptors for the cen axles to accept the 14mm hexes, but they quickly snapped the axles on the cen... they were never designed for the added size of the larger wheels.. and the cen dogbones and cvd's were kind of expensive...

I have the 14mm hexes that Dr.Honda made. I just haven't bought any wheels for it yet. Kinda pointless to buy wheels for something that doesn't even turn lol

Ok so I have the new servo in and working fine, it is turning the car, but not what I expected. It still takes a long time for the truck to turn around in the grass, on asphalt it will slide around, in the grass it flips.

what servo are you running? that would make a difference to the speed that the wheels turn... also, the narrow wheel base of the MT2 makes it very prone to flipping over.... the Proline tires on the offset wheels make the truck much wider and more stable...

I have the hitech 645mg I think it is in the front.

I have tried the stock ones, a futuba one, and this hi-tech with no luck. The car just turns like crap

are all you linkages even on both sides.... I don't remember mine too well, but the turning radius of mine was very sharp... actually too sharp and the truck would flip easily. .I had to dial out alot of the throws... Are your endpoints set right? has to be something there that either hitting or binding.. You mentioned that it would go all the way with the wheels off the ground, but not on the ground.. Mabye the servo saver is too loose... If I remember correctly, its built into on of the posts... on the right front, make sure its not too loose or your steering will suffer...

I think there is a nut or a collar on the top of the post under the plate that if you turn it clockwise it will tighten it up a bit... don't go too tight unless you have metal geared servo's or they will strip...

trading in the bushings on the steering posts for bearings helps a lot too, can't remember the size off the top of my head, but im sure you can google it.

Sorry to be a n00b. But what bushings are you talking about?

The bushings are part # SP29. the Size is 5x8x2.5 mm to get bearings There are 4 of them and they go as in the picture.

I cant quite see properly, could you make the pic bigger please...[:-]

when you hover on the picture the little cursor says magnify but you press it and the picture gets smaller, ha.

lol my bad. Guess you can post photos at full resolution...... thought it would auto resize for me