Low speed needle setup on gst 7.7........
#1
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I finally figured out the setting on the lsn that was causing the high pitch sound. it seems like the lsn likes to be rich. ok no problem. but for some reason it keeps stalling on me on slow down, why is that? I cant run any leaner on the lsn for i found the perfect spot. a little leaner will cause it to high pitch and overheat. so i am running it a little richer. also, shutting it down seems a little bit of a pain. because i am running little rich on lsn, it take some time to shut off when pinching the fuel line. i am affraid that it will run so lean that it will start to blow the glow plug. so what are my options here??please let me know, appreciate all opinions!!!!!
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From: Ellensburg, WA
You might be better off to keep your tuning ?s within one thread. you have 3 going I believe and it can get diff to keep up with where you're at. Just a suggestion.
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no problem, thanks for the suggestion. i will make sure it will stay under one thread. do you have a solution to my problem in the mean time??appreciate it??
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my lsn is set a little too rich!!is that normal on the gst 7.7. my idle is set almost all the way. i have a good 1mm gap. should i increase it using the radio??
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From: Ellensburg, WA
They just give you a starting point on all this. You could play around and set the gap a bit more or use your trim to experiment. Factory settings are not set in stone due to climate, type of fuel, etc
#7
if its shutting down then you have the idle too low or it is not stopping at the set idle stop. when you hit the breaks it closes the throttle too far, so you need to set it so when you hit the breaks and turn the idle set screw till it stops at about 1mm or 1.5mm. if the idle stop is not being used and you have it set by the radio settings only it will go past it and close the carb and shut it down.
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ok, let me discribe exactly what is happening. when the truck comes to a complete stop, it doesn't shut down right away. It will shut off in 10 - 15 seconds. it will start to idle down slowly like it is shocking. any suggestions???
#10
yep thats how mine is too , it needs to be cleared out or it will stall, do what nomobux said and that will be the best for that motor. the high speed as long as it sounds good and gets up to speed without sounding its straining thats the best setting , the low is really rich as you found out , and i think i mentioned that but it only needs fine tuning a little at a time . you will know when its far enough, i usually run one full tank to warm it up then do my tuning at about half tank. that way you will get the best tune out of that engine and for that matter any engine. like i said before it took mine almost 2 gallons to finally run right , but thats because i add more oil to it so breakin took a bit longer.
#11
forgot to mention , if the idle is set too high it will sound like its too lean . that gap needs to be set first or you will never be able to tune it .
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I have to agree with you. it seems that this particular engineruns way different then my revo 3.3 and savage xl. so you recommend setting the idle gap first then tuning the lsn. with that, i have to use the radio because i think i am all the way on the idle screw. now that shouldn't be problem right?? i gotta tell you it ran pretty good last weekend. i went through one full tank, no problem. now by raising the idle a little bit i should be good then. One more thing, it takes so long to shut off when pinching the fuel line. is it because the lsn is rich??is yours the same way?? let me know.
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From: Ellensburg, WA
ORIGINAL: nitrotec
I have to agree with you. it seems that this particular engine runs way different then my revo 3.3 and savage xl. so you recommend setting the idle gap first then tuning the lsn. with that, i have to use the radio because i think i am all the way on the idle screw. now that shouldn't be problem right?? i gotta tell you it ran pretty good last weekend. i went through one full tank, no problem. now by raising the idle a little bit i should be good then. One more thing, it takes so long to shut off when pinching the fuel line. is it because the lsn is rich??is yours the same way?? let me know.
I have to agree with you. it seems that this particular engine runs way different then my revo 3.3 and savage xl. so you recommend setting the idle gap first then tuning the lsn. with that, i have to use the radio because i think i am all the way on the idle screw. now that shouldn't be problem right?? i gotta tell you it ran pretty good last weekend. i went through one full tank, no problem. now by raising the idle a little bit i should be good then. One more thing, it takes so long to shut off when pinching the fuel line. is it because the lsn is rich??is yours the same way?? let me know.
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well, according to the manual the idle screw should be flush with the carb body. after that, you cant really turn (clockwise)no more to increase the idle.what could be wrong here!!unless my carb is damaged or something.
as far as the pinching the fuel line, the lsn is a little too rich, so i think common sense it should take a while before shutting off!! let me know what are my options
as far as the pinching the fuel line, the lsn is a little too rich, so i think common sense it should take a while before shutting off!! let me know what are my options
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I'm wondering if you damaged the screw. You should be opening the throttle before you screw it in. Pull the air filter and look down the carb, open the throttle a bit and adjust in and see what happens. You may have worn the tip down or something.
#16
my idle screw is not flush , i just checked it and i would say its recessed in 2mm maybe 1mm but its definitly not flush. i would need to get back to you on the fuel line pinch, i never needed to cut the fuel to shut it off before . but in my last vid it ran out of gas so that should be a indicator of how long it took , maybe 4 or 5 seconds?
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i double checked the manual, it says flush on the idle. it almost put the idle all the way no more room to turn. i baught a new carb thinking my old one was bad, i just went to check it is same thing. flush with the carb puts it all the way. to increase the idle i have to use the radio.
#18
are the new engines different than the ones with the red head engines ? i wonder if they changed the carbs on them . have you tryed to lube the o rings on the carb with green slime, that will prolong the life of them and seat the orings better in the needles .
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSF70&P=ML
without physically seeing the truck its hard to diagnose what is wrong. i do know the idle up at braking is caused by the radio idle stop and the carb is not being stoped by the idle stop needle . you could try this , take the servo horn off the servo and reposition it so it sits closed on the idle stop screw, then check your gap. you may need to subtrim the throttle on the airtronics radio but that should stop the the idle up and down on the braking.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSF70&P=ML
without physically seeing the truck its hard to diagnose what is wrong. i do know the idle up at braking is caused by the radio idle stop and the carb is not being stoped by the idle stop needle . you could try this , take the servo horn off the servo and reposition it so it sits closed on the idle stop screw, then check your gap. you may need to subtrim the throttle on the airtronics radio but that should stop the the idle up and down on the braking.
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yes they are different, i got right now 2mm air gap by using the radio. i will try it tonight and see what happens!!!




