I know it would fly at a 23 oz/sq ft wing loading, but at 18 oz/sq ft it would open up the flight envelope. After building pylon racing models for over three decades, having airplanes weigh less than the minimum weight is an obsession. Plus, my club field is at 3200 ft and summer days are hot, which is saying I really miss flying at Sea Level.

If anyone supplied the glass fuselages, I would just build a new one. I've wanted to fly one of these for years after reading about how well they performed. Your building thread has really increased that desire for me, and no doubt for others.

One final request - could you take 4 pictures of the plans and post when you get a chance? Just show high detail shots from the middle of the plans to each corner so that all the details and fine print can be read.

Let me know if this helps.
Dave

That's great Dave. Thank you very much!

No problem at all..

Cabanes are now ready for the top wing.

The system they use is a slot with a dowel glued in one end.
The cabane has a notch in it that hooks the dowel in the wing.
No screws to mess with...........

How did you hinge your ailerons? I am glassing mine for static competition but can't figure out a good way to go about it. I don't want the plastic pin hinge joint poking out of the top of the wing...

On the used plane I bought the ailerons used flat, pinned hinges (like Kletts) inset 1/16 down from the top surface. The leading edge of the aileron was beveled so the "point" was 1/16 down. I replaced the hinges with 3 new ones in different spots. They were really in there; I had to cut them flush because they wouldn't pull out.

Jim

Hope you don't mind, but maybe I will just jump in on this thread since the guy who started that other thread has not updated his build in a while.

I started glassing my wings (and ran out of glass) so I decided to mess with the struts. They just looked too plain, and since I want to compete with mine why not go the extra mile.

I added some tristock around where they meet the wings. No doubt these will also add some lateral strength.

I don't mind you jumping in as long as you tell me how you got such a damn nice looking center pylon on that fuse.
Man that looks really really nice.

Have you considered a gapless hinge?

I use gapless on everything, have not used a pinned hinge in 20 years.
Perhaps something to consider................

Easy to do and looks great.

Mine was a mix-match. New fuse, covered wings (with no tips) and a donor fuse with the cabane and stabs. I just re-cut a new cabane and cut the saddle portion off of the one on the donor fuse.

I don't know how to do gapless hinging. Do you know if there is walkthrough somewhere?

Dave,

I would consider Robart Hinge Points gapless but they are pinned. Are you talking about something different?

Nice builds guys.

David.

I'll try and post a pic of one of my planes and try to walk you through it as soon as I can.
A buddy got hurt at work and lost a finger today.
I'm really tied up at the moment but I'll catch up after the drama subsides.

Lost a finger?! Yikes. I hope they can reattach it.

Got my spinner today. It's a Dave Brown Ultimate pointy job. I think I might actually go back to a normal spinner though as this one doesn't follow the contour of the bottom of the fuse as well as I thought it might. We will see as it goes together.

To get the spinner backplate spacing correct I had to extend the fuse 1/4 of an inch with the YS 63. My firewall was already glued in (well) so I wasn't going to risk tearing it out. Prop is a 12x8.

Amazing! I didn't think a YS 63 could pull a 60 size bipe along with authority.

David

Well honestly I have no idea how it will do but it will spin a 12x7 or 12x8 at around 11k, so it is similar to an O.S. 60FX. It just looks and sounds way cooler, lol.

Typically 4 strokes need to be larger than 2 strokes to produce the same level of power. Static RPM on a given prop doesn't necessarily translate to the same power output on two different engines. Although I have never run a 4 stroke, my understanding is that 90's are comparable to 60 2 strokes. The YS 63 apparently works well on 40 size models. I have a YS 53 (never run) which I thought I'd put into a 32 size scale model - just haven't decided which one.

I'll be interested to know how it performs on the Pulsar though!

David.

Well 90 4-strokes are usually comparable to 60 2-strokes, except with YS. They are monsters, and the 63 is comparable to an O.S. 60FX as I stated before. But flight will be the true litmus test.

I picked up a bunch more fiberglass cloth, so I am continuing with the wings. In the meantime I fitted some wheel pants. Totally finishes off the fuse lines on this plane.

I robbed these Sig plastic wheel pant mount things from an old Ultra Sport I won at the Toledo show. They work perfectly on the Pulsar's wire gear.

Buddy did indeed lose part of his finger, chain and gear ripped it off.

Been helping him out so Pulsar got put on the back burner for awhile.

OK back to the plane............

I started the fuse and began to get the tail ready.
Hope my fuse looks as nice as the other guy on here.

Still pondering engine choices.....

Wow, that is unfortunate. I hope it wasn't one of the more important ones, i.e. thumb or pointer.

My wings are fully glassed and primed and all that is left to glass is the struts and ailerons. I am still not sure how I want to hinge those though. At this point I might just go with hinge points.

And then the sanding extravaganza will begin.

I am not sure what scheme I want to do on this plane but I am thinking something similar to the classic sunburst theme.

Cap aileron ends with your covering of choice.
I use a Sig easy hinge cut in half the long way for my hinges.
Install aileron and glue hinge with 1/8" gap.
Cover entire panel and allow covering to fill the gap where the wing and aileron meet.
Hope this makes sense.

BTW it was the right index finger he lost..............

That stinks, I hope he isn't a shooter.

I am glassing and painting my Pulsar (the whole thing) so I don't think that method will work for me. Thanks anyway though.

Starting to see a shape.

I'll keep assembling and make sure everything fits together right.

Then the finish will come later.

Tail wheel installed and fuse is cut for rudder and stab. Some color on the tail as well.
Not sure if I'm going to stick with this color and pattern.
Was bored and wanted to see how it looks.

No pinstripe yet so I'll walk past it a few times to decide if I like it.