dhal22

guys, please enlighten me. why vertical on the wood grain?

8178

My Feedback: (17)

So the ribs under the skin can hold it in place with the grain 90 degrees to the ribs. When you go the other way the skin will easily bend around the ribs.

dhal22

ahhhhh! therein lies the reason for the warp then. don't know why i didn't realize that earlier. most of my builds have been slab stabs[&o].

pimmnz

Treat the fin, and tailplane like the wing, the grain follows the leading (or trailing) edge, and this also allows the skinning to follow (conform) to the rib section without hollowing between ribs. You can see where this is going, by simply reshaping the usual flat section, built up tailplane or fin with a few wider, symmetric ribs before sheeting, you end up with a nice airfoiled section with no increase in weight and greater stiffness. The decrease in weight from a typical 'slab' tail has to be experienced to be believed, and it can't warp either. Just a thought.
Evan, WB #12.

grotto2

My Feedback: (2)

I find that when I make a goof like this I'm better off rebuilding it than trying to hide it.
Why not sit down in a comfy chair with a metal rule and sharp scalpel and cut the entire wood panel off one side of the fin, replace it with a new piece of wood with the grain direction correct, and then do the same thing on the other side.
Then a little bit of sanding and you'll feel better that you did the job right.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Well, now that you mentioned it, I think that would be the best solution too. I thought that from the beginning but didn’t want to deliver the bad news. But in the end the process would make it all better.

dhal22

i thought about that. i thought the fill in was worth a shot. it actually feels pretty good since i've already done the fill in. if i'm not satisfied i will do the alternative. the (2nd) skim coat has been applied.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with grotto2. Now is the best time to simply build a new fin. You'll be glad later on.

If you want to see a drastic re-do:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7391639

I stripped off all the dope and the plastic canopy and basically started over. I'm really glad I did it now.

David

dhal22

the low spot isn't really that big. i filled it before i made the move to to cut the entire area out and was surprised at how firm it was. after some more thinking i decided to glue a few toothpicks through the stab in this area. it is now very firm. i will dremel the toothpick ends smooth and fill again. i think i've got it now.

the canopy is next.

dhal22

i decided to do the fillets before the canopy for obvious reasons. this is the 2nd time i've used the technique that 8178 showed in his BA build. a strip of heavy fiberglass cloth resined to the fuse and then resin and micro balloons slurry to finish the fillet. then lots of sanding. here are a couple of progress photos. eventually the fillets will be glassed and polyurethaned like the rest of the fuse.

dhal22

since there are currently questions about epoxy and microballoons i thought i might bring my thread back from the dead. on my wing fillets i used 60 min epoxy and mixed in enough MB to make a self leveling paste but not too runny. turning the plane on a 45 allowed the paste to settle in evenly. the ends of the fillets still need some work but still this is a great way to build a fillet. someday i will have finished photos of the fillets, trying to get a couple of other projects out of the way 1st. and i use a dust mask when mixing microballoons.

dhal22

i sure wish people would nag me about this project more.[X(] at least i've pushed another project out of the way to get back on the BA. i suppose that qualifies as progress.

Aurora_60

My Feedback: (1)

What you started a different plane Before finishing one that was already started?
Lately I don't even need a place to fly, just more tables to build the other kits I have laying around!



DM

dhal22

nah, i have a couple of planes essentially ready for paint. planes i built before the BA. i thought i would be clever and try to get them finished. it hasn't worked. i am actually thinking about having someone else do my painting.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

David,

Don't do it.

After all the hard work you've put in to your build, having someone else paint it will leave a bad taste in your mouth. When you see her take off for the first time after countless more hours painting it, you will then remember why you did it.

Few other things in life bring such a grin to my face... and so I submit.

I hope you choose the path of glory!

David.

P.S. I can bug you a little more often if need be...

dhal22

not the BA, i'm looking at shopping out a couple of other planes to be painted. planes of little interest in this forum.

dhal22

starting the canopy process. the easy part is out of the way. have i read somewhere where someone used a wood floor shiner to wax their canopy (mop and glo?). has anyone done this?

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

Looks Nice Dave!! Keep up the good work... [8D]

Is that an MK Wild Beat kit in the background?? How Kewl...

I know you said you were collecting a few MK kits but I forgot to ask about them...

Have Fun...

Chuck

dhal22

hey Chuck, yes it is a Wild Beat. it is probably my next project. it is a beautiful kit.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Way to go David!

nothing quite like the first layer of paint. I assume she'll be finished in the classic scheme? What kind of paint do you have in mind using? It looks like you're using some Krylon for non exposed areas...

On another note, I plan to use Jeff's (Bootalini's) water based colours and your polycrylic technique for doing the flying surfaces on a Tipo (fuse is glass). How many coats of poly including those with talc/MB to fill the weave would you say it takes to get a surface ready for priming? In how many stages do you proceed with the poly? Something like 3-4 coats at a time, let rest, apply more in a day or two? It's quite amazing and clearly doesn't add much to the airframe because your fuse hardly looks glassed although I know it is.

I believe I used a similar water based product from Varathane years ago to finish a table and was amazed at how easy it was to work with the stuff. I finally landed some Minwax stuff (tricky to get here) so I'll be using that instead. I believe that both you and Jeff used 1/2 oz cloth rather than 3/4 oz cloth - any recommended sources for this in larger quantities? I've used 3/4 oz hobby cloth in the past.

David.

dhal22

hey david, thx for the comments. i order glass from thayercraft. http://thayercraft.com/ there's not much difference between 1/2 and 3/4 oz cloth. use either in my opinion. this approach is ridiculously light. it's the paint that adds the weight. i usually lay 3 coats of straight polycrylic then sand and clean. i then paint 2 coats of polyc and talc, sanding as needed, then i cap that off with another coat or 2 of straight polyc. this stuff dries in 20 minutes so youcan be ready for primer in 1 day.

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

You may have said it elsewhere in this thread but are you planning on the Nelsons paint for the BA??

Thanks for the link to Thayercraft!! Good Stuff..

I guess you will know better when your are done but do you feel you'll wind up with a durable finished product?? What I mean by that is more resistant to dings and nicks than monocoat?? The reason I ask is my field is grass and a little rough for these 60 sized planes...Not a real problem for bigger planes with 3.5" wheels but it's been a little tough on my Dirty Birdy that I'm flying there now...I'm pretty sure I'll be glassing and painting over monocoat anyway but I sorta hoped there may be a little durability gained too...

I'm trying to figure out how 3.5" wheels would look on a tricycle gear retract set-up..he he

Chuck

dhal22

chuck, too bad we couldn't build a fall away larger wheel rack for smaller panes that take off on grass. as for the durable finish, polycrylic and glass seems to be fairly strong, of course glass and epoxy would be stronger, but weight is an important factor so take your pick. no monocote means no seams and a finish of your choice. inn my opinion anything with a paint finish should be transported in wing bags, etc or more. i really admired a custom box made for a plane that i saw somewhere here on RCU. the guy had a stain finished box with brass hinges, corners, etc and a custom foam cutout interior for the plane. a little much but it gives you an idea.

dhal22

the canopy is on. i used the only epoxy i had on hand (60 minute), therefore it should be ready to sand sometime in 2012. i don't really like epoxy but but that's what the Blue Angel bible said to use.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Great progress! Don’t forget the glass cloth part.