Tsunami Build Thread
#226
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Hey David,
thanks for chiming in.
Regarding the plans, they have been immortalized into PDF. See post #201 above for a 60 size version that I scaled to my liking. There may be other sizes elsewhere. I began cutting parts for a small 43" version that I am planning to eventually build for an electric 300W outrunner. In short, the plans can be scaled to produce a Tsunami of any size one desires.
With that said, Juno is apparently working on a 60 size kit (has for some time now) which I understand is to have a 72" wing span.
David.
thanks for chiming in.
Regarding the plans, they have been immortalized into PDF. See post #201 above for a 60 size version that I scaled to my liking. There may be other sizes elsewhere. I began cutting parts for a small 43" version that I am planning to eventually build for an electric 300W outrunner. In short, the plans can be scaled to produce a Tsunami of any size one desires.
With that said, Juno is apparently working on a 60 size kit (has for some time now) which I understand is to have a 72" wing span.
David.
#227
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From: Singapore , SINGAPORE
Hope this is not too late on the throws for the Tsunami. Have the copy from Kuala Lumpur now. So, if anyone's wanting a pdf, drop me your e-mail on PM. Not sure how big the file will be when pdf'd. If it fits, it'll be the next attachment.
Control Surface Throws:
Ailerons: 5/16" up and down
Elevator: 3/8" up and down
Rudder: 1" left and right
Dave
Control Surface Throws:
Ailerons: 5/16" up and down
Elevator: 3/8" up and down
Rudder: 1" left and right
Dave
#230

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From: caledonia, MI
is there someone here that could provide me with the rib tracings. Have a built fuselage but lost the plans and apparently derek is a little slow getting his kits out. [email protected]. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Phil
#233
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From: Comox,
BC, CANADA
Check out this video: My buddy put his on board camera on the port wing root on my Tsunami, and then filmed the flight from the ground too. It turned out awesome, I think. I really love that all you hear from the on board camera is wind noise, no motor or prop.That says a lot about the power system. We had a foggy start to the day and the fog was lifting when we got to the field. It still surprised me at how low it was.
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF4TEJW9usA">
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF4TEJW9usA">
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#234

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From: Towson, MD
I just found an original Direct Connections Tsunami kit at my local hobby shop and am really psyched about it. Is performance with a .40 engine decent? I already have a Champion 45L with a Jett .46 and it is nerve-wrackingly ridiculously fast. I was thinking that this Tsunami with a .40 might be a little more relaxed as they claim that low speed performance is good. I have many engine options as I have 32 different .40 size engines and many others. Maybe an Irvine .40 diesel, a Taplin twin or even my RCV60. What do you think?
[8D]Max
[8D]Max
#238
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Ronin,
have you considered scratching the model? It is not a hard model to build. There are plans in various posts on the thread here.
The trickiest part would be the canopy but you could make one from carved out wood or make a mold for a plastic one.
I plan on building a little one one day. I've got formers and fuse sides cut but that's about it.
Just a thought, David.
have you considered scratching the model? It is not a hard model to build. There are plans in various posts on the thread here.
The trickiest part would be the canopy but you could make one from carved out wood or make a mold for a plastic one.
I plan on building a little one one day. I've got formers and fuse sides cut but that's about it.
Just a thought, David.
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From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Max,
I had a OS .55AX in my Tsunami. It was a GREAT combination. It's going to be a little slower with a .40, but should still be a great flyer. Regarding the low-speed characteristics, NOT great. Eventually lost mine trying to get back to the field after a flameout.
ChiefK
I had a OS .55AX in my Tsunami. It was a GREAT combination. It's going to be a little slower with a .40, but should still be a great flyer. Regarding the low-speed characteristics, NOT great. Eventually lost mine trying to get back to the field after a flameout.
ChiefK
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From: DeQueen,
AR
I wouldn't mind building it from scratch if I could find some parts tracings or something. But I've had no luck in that area.
ORIGINAL: doxilia
Ronin,
have you considered scratching the model? It is not a hard model to build. There are plans in various posts on the thread here.
The trickiest part would be the canopy but you could make one from carved out wood or make a mold for a plastic one.
I plan on building a little one one day. I've got formers and fuse sides cut but that's about it.
Just a thought, David.
Ronin,
have you considered scratching the model? It is not a hard model to build. There are plans in various posts on the thread here.
The trickiest part would be the canopy but you could make one from carved out wood or make a mold for a plastic one.
I plan on building a little one one day. I've got formers and fuse sides cut but that's about it.
Just a thought, David.
#241
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From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Ronin,
I traced the ribs and formers from my Juno kit. They're TIF files, about 2MB each for the three pages. I could PM them to you in three separate messages...
Greg
I traced the ribs and formers from my Juno kit. They're TIF files, about 2MB each for the three pages. I could PM them to you in three separate messages...
Greg
#242
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Greg,
thanks to your rib tracings I was able to convert them to PDF and reduce their file size to 40K (that's over a 41 fold file size reduction!)
Ronin, here they are attached. If you need a plan scaled to the original 40 size, I can produce that too and post it here. Let me know.
Now that Derek has closed shop, it does leave a hole in the availability of this cool model. I wonder if Derek ever transferred the DC designs to CAD or if the kits he produced were like the originals. Did anyone buy one of Derek's kits? Were they laser cut by any chance?
Without going to the length and trouble of a full kit, a laser kit of the basic parts (ribs, formers, sides, a few other bits and pieces) might be worth thinking about. How much interest would there be in a wood kit (without canopy or landing gear)?
On the other hand, I really have too many "conversion" projects on the burner.
David.
P.S. As a side note, this is an excellent example of raster vs vector file size footprint. An entirely different subject discussed in other threads.
thanks to your rib tracings I was able to convert them to PDF and reduce their file size to 40K (that's over a 41 fold file size reduction!)
Ronin, here they are attached. If you need a plan scaled to the original 40 size, I can produce that too and post it here. Let me know.
Now that Derek has closed shop, it does leave a hole in the availability of this cool model. I wonder if Derek ever transferred the DC designs to CAD or if the kits he produced were like the originals. Did anyone buy one of Derek's kits? Were they laser cut by any chance?
Without going to the length and trouble of a full kit, a laser kit of the basic parts (ribs, formers, sides, a few other bits and pieces) might be worth thinking about. How much interest would there be in a wood kit (without canopy or landing gear)?
On the other hand, I really have too many "conversion" projects on the burner.
David.
P.S. As a side note, this is an excellent example of raster vs vector file size footprint. An entirely different subject discussed in other threads.
#244
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Greg,
I was just taking a look at the rib tracing to check for symmetry. I worked on the root rib and found it to be a tad off - probably die cutting.
In any case, I drew up the first root rib in CAD (its now 100% symmetrical). If I didn't have an impinged right shoulder (yeah... royal rotator cuff pain - literally), I might find inspiration to loft up the full set.
Maybe one a night...
Actually some days are better than others.
David.
I was just taking a look at the rib tracing to check for symmetry. I worked on the root rib and found it to be a tad off - probably die cutting.
In any case, I drew up the first root rib in CAD (its now 100% symmetrical). If I didn't have an impinged right shoulder (yeah... royal rotator cuff pain - literally), I might find inspiration to loft up the full set.
Maybe one a night...
Actually some days are better than others.David.
#245
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From: Foxfire Village,
NC
ORIGINAL: doxilia
Greg,
thanks to your rib tracings I was able to convert them to PDF and reduce their file size to 40K (that's over a 41 fold file size reduction!)
Ronin, here they are attached. If you need a plan scaled to the original 40 size, I can produce that too and post it here. Let me know.
Now that Derek has closed shop, it does leave a hole in the availability of this cool model. I wonder if Derek ever transferred the DC designs to CAD or if the kits he produced were like the originals. Did anyone buy one of Derek's kits? Were they laser cut by any chance?
Without going to the length and trouble of a full kit, a laser kit of the basic parts (ribs, formers, sides, a few other bits and pieces) might be worth thinking about. How much interest would there be in a wood kit (without canopy or landing gear)?
On the other hand, I really have too many ''conversion'' projects on the burner.
David.
P.S. As a side note, this is an excellent example of raster vs vector file size footprint. An entirely different subject discussed in other threads.
Greg,
thanks to your rib tracings I was able to convert them to PDF and reduce their file size to 40K (that's over a 41 fold file size reduction!)
Ronin, here they are attached. If you need a plan scaled to the original 40 size, I can produce that too and post it here. Let me know.
Now that Derek has closed shop, it does leave a hole in the availability of this cool model. I wonder if Derek ever transferred the DC designs to CAD or if the kits he produced were like the originals. Did anyone buy one of Derek's kits? Were they laser cut by any chance?
Without going to the length and trouble of a full kit, a laser kit of the basic parts (ribs, formers, sides, a few other bits and pieces) might be worth thinking about. How much interest would there be in a wood kit (without canopy or landing gear)?
On the other hand, I really have too many ''conversion'' projects on the burner.
David.
P.S. As a side note, this is an excellent example of raster vs vector file size footprint. An entirely different subject discussed in other threads.
My Tsunami was a kit from Derek. I am not 100% sure, but I don't recall that the parts were laser cut. Thanks for sending Kirt the rib tracings... I'll attach the former tracings which I converted to PDF format. Kirt, if you'd prefer the high-res TIF files I will send you those. Please let me know if you're OK with the PDF versions you now have.
Greg
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From: Foxfire Village,
NC
David,
Do you have a coordinate file for the Tsunami root airfoil you trued up? I've got CompuFoil so I could make a lofted rib set fairly easily.
Greg
Do you have a coordinate file for the Tsunami root airfoil you trued up? I've got CompuFoil so I could make a lofted rib set fairly easily.
Greg
#247
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Greg,
working on it. There are still some issues.
One thing I can't recall from the build and can't tell from the tracings is whether the TE of the ribs is constant. The LE appears not to be and by looking at my wing it isn't either - it tapers to a thinner tip LE.
The TE however, I don't recall having to sand down the 3/8" thick aileron stock to a thinner aileron. In fact, the wing tip is a piece of 3/8" balsa which, if I recall my build correctly, means that the sheeted tip TE should also be 3/8" thick. The problem with that though is, if its the case, how does one end up with airfoil contour at the root! It would be way too thin!
I recall maybe sanding my ailerons to airfoil slightly and the wing TE is a piece of 1/4" x 1/2" to allow the sheeting to be butted up against the TE which is then sanded down. The root TE thickness at the hinge line ought to be 3/8" to match up with the aileron.
In short, it strikes me as though the rib TE thickness ought to be uniform at a tad over 0.25" so that when one adds the 1/16" sheeting the thickness is just over 3/8" in order for it to be sanded down to 3/8" thickness at the hinge line.
Make sense to you?
David.
working on it. There are still some issues.
One thing I can't recall from the build and can't tell from the tracings is whether the TE of the ribs is constant. The LE appears not to be and by looking at my wing it isn't either - it tapers to a thinner tip LE.
The TE however, I don't recall having to sand down the 3/8" thick aileron stock to a thinner aileron. In fact, the wing tip is a piece of 3/8" balsa which, if I recall my build correctly, means that the sheeted tip TE should also be 3/8" thick. The problem with that though is, if its the case, how does one end up with airfoil contour at the root! It would be way too thin!
I recall maybe sanding my ailerons to airfoil slightly and the wing TE is a piece of 1/4" x 1/2" to allow the sheeting to be butted up against the TE which is then sanded down. The root TE thickness at the hinge line ought to be 3/8" to match up with the aileron.
In short, it strikes me as though the rib TE thickness ought to be uniform at a tad over 0.25" so that when one adds the 1/16" sheeting the thickness is just over 3/8" in order for it to be sanded down to 3/8" thickness at the hinge line.
Make sense to you?
David.
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From: Spring Valley, CA
Hi David,
I have an original Direct Connection kit that is unassembled. I checked and you are correct, the TE of the ribs are constant. LE tapers.
Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Ray
I have an original Direct Connection kit that is unassembled. I checked and you are correct, the TE of the ribs are constant. LE tapers.
Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Ray
#249
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Ray,
many thanks, that is helpful.
Would you be able to provide me with the height of the ribs at the TE as well as the height of the root and tip ribs at the LE? Also, could you provide the length of the root and tip ribs along a rib centerline? If its easier to get more accurate readings using metric, go ahead and measure in mm.
That should allow us to loft the wing anew in CAD.
Here's the adjusted root rib with sheeting, LE, TE and aileron drawn. The aileron is 1.25" wide and 3/8" in height at the hinge line. The TE and LE are each 1/4" thick.
David.
many thanks, that is helpful.
Would you be able to provide me with the height of the ribs at the TE as well as the height of the root and tip ribs at the LE? Also, could you provide the length of the root and tip ribs along a rib centerline? If its easier to get more accurate readings using metric, go ahead and measure in mm.
That should allow us to loft the wing anew in CAD.
Here's the adjusted root rib with sheeting, LE, TE and aileron drawn. The aileron is 1.25" wide and 3/8" in height at the hinge line. The TE and LE are each 1/4" thick.
David.


