alright sweet . I have one other to finish first but i think this will be next. Oh yaeh and i believe the nanorare is next after that. Still have't forgotten about it. Phil

Phil,

try the following formers for the T10. Scale up for the T20.

They are already adjusted for the additional size required. Parts are on a piece of letter sized paper. Print PDF at 1:1 evidently.

By the way, I found the system for F3 to be a real pain when building the fuse. I'd just cut it out of a single piece of 1/8" lite ply. For the FW, I'd use 1/8" regular ply. I also sized the inner hole in the firewall and spinner ring so that a 28 mm can motor can be slid in from either side. A cooling inlet will be needed on the underside or two little NACA inlets could be made on the side - perhaps cooler looking.

The dashed line in F-3 can be used for a former doubler (say in the T20 or T40) or one can simply use 1/2" lite-ply rings around the dowel holes as shown for the T10. Oval holes in the FW as shown in the second pic might allow a little more airflow over the battery and ESC.

Hope this helps.

David.

sweet thanks david. I just put an order in to rc timer for a couple 2836 motors. 1120 kv 320 watts. Should fit the bill nicely. Will run on 3 or 4 s so when they get here hopefully construction will comence.also I'm planning on maidening my 40 tsunami at the end of the month. Hope to have a better flying season than i did last year. Thanks again. Phil

ok have the plans and part sheets printed out. Have to order retracts and then i'll get started. Thinking i'm going to go with the e-flite 10 to 15 sze electric retracts if funds allow. If not i'm going to get a set of micro mechanicals. Stayed tuned. Phil

Phil,

for the T10, I think you might find the E-Flite's to be a little large and heavy. The plane wants to weigh no more than 30 oz - 26 would be ideal. The GP 10 size mechanicals are what I had in mind.

For the T20, the E-Flites are perfect. They are really made for 3-4 lb models, 20-32 size engines to my mind. An electric trike 10 size set would be great to have for the smaller scale and sport models.

Attached is a photo of the GP 10 size gear in a 40" span Deception wing. Gives you an idea of the size - they are quite light and could be operated with an HS-65MG or similar (0.6 oz servo). Those are 1.75" Dave Brown Lite Flite wheels - perfect for an electric T10 too.

David.

Just thinking to myself here but if you put a couple of pieces of 3/8" tristock backing up the FW on either side, split them at the thrust line so that you have a 1/16" gap. You can then run a 1/16" ply plate the width of the FW on the thrust line back to F3 and support it with the opening in the former. Another piece of tristock running horizontally in front of F3 under the opening would provide a little added support or you can use some square hardwood and screw the plate into it. This would make access to the ESC easier. Might also need a cross section of square hardwood in between for a nice solid LIPO/ESC tray.

You might also want to check out Frank's retract wing build starting with post #107 here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...tsunami&page=8

David.

i was looking at those to because they are cheaper. Guess i will go with them and an hs-65. Thanks for the tip. Phil

Hey All,

I just finished building a scratch Tsunami 40 E-RG with a foam core wing. I'm very impressed with this model! Here's a video of it flying formation with Frank's Tsunami.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1N6mDdpBkc[/youtube]

Sweet video Brian!

Then again, I had already seen it [8D]

David.

that is sweet. Can't wait to get mine done. Question. Did you just paint the canopy to darken it like you or what process did you use to blacken it like that. That looks awesome and would love to do it to smaller size electric that i'm about to start. Phil

The canopy was carved from foam and painted black.

hey david you think a 2212-06 outrunner with a 7/4 prop would pull the vortex around. It's rated at 300 watts and kept light enough do you think this setup would work? phil

Phil,

what brand and kV is that 2212-06 motor? A 7x4 is going to require a fairly high kV motor (~2000+).

I'm turning an APC E8x6 on a 1460 kV motor (Dualsky XM2834CA-6) for close to 300W (spec) - I've actually not put it on a Watt meter yet. I didn't have one back then. On this same motor an APC SF7x4 would only deliver ~150W input on 3s. I have some APC SF8x3.8 which I want to try as they pull in a different way than the E-props.

David.

it's 2200 kv specs say 340 watts on a 7/4 on 3s. Just curious as i have about 3 of these looking for something to do. Was also wondering if i could possibly run a bigger prop without burning it up. Have 40 amp esc's for em. Just started cutting parts out for and doing some measurements so construction is under way. Phil

Phil,

there you have it. At 2200 kV you have the windings needed to bring the power up on a 7x4. Should be fine and a 7x4 should also keep the gyro effect down. Between a 6" and an 8" prop, I think a 7" might actually just be the perfect diameter for the Vortex (T15). Andy Kunz runs E-Flite six series (2000 kV) on his Gulfstream which is a very similar sized model. He actually runs 6" props though and he says his model is fast! At 340 W you might have to prop down (6"x5") to not burn up the motor.

Have a picture of that motor?

Glad to hear you got yours underway. Whatever you do, build light!

David.

What cell count will you be using on the 7" prop? I understand that the 2212-06 works great on a 6x4 on 3S, anything more and you'll burn that sucker up!

Oh yea, 3s - no more, no less.

Could anyone please tell me what brand a 2212-06 is!? Sounds like a HiMax or the Check motors - forget their name.

David.

There are a bunch of them. Grayson, Suppo, etc.

http://www.lightflightrc.com/HTML/products/2212-06.htm

http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...32043d8aad7fe6

http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt

Brian,

thanks for the info. Generic 22 mm can, 12 wind motor I guess? Come to think of it, a 22 mm can sounds a little small for a 30 oz model (26 oz would be ideal!)

BTW, only the second link in your post above works.

David.

Try [link=http://www.lightflightrc.com/HTML/products/2212-06.htm]here[/link] and [link=http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=116&produc tname=]here[/link]

RC Universe doesn't seem to like the lightflightrc one, it removes part of it. If you're using Chrome, it'll suggest the proper link.

Brian,

Yea, the LightFlight link breaks but I found it from the home page.

Here are the specs:

SUPPO 2212-06
• 47g Outrunner
• Kv: 2200, Rm: 0.045, io: 1.4A, Poles: 14
• Max watts: 240, Max amps: 28A for 60sec
• Shaft is 3.17mm
• Dimensions: 28mm x 30mm

So not a 22 mm can but a 28 mm - much better. Phil, is this what your motor is like? Will you be doing fixed gear, retracts or gearless?

They might not have quite as much muscle as the 1460 kV Dualsky's but they should do just fine on the little Tsunami. After all, 240W max is about 120W/lb which is just fine on a model this size. I want to put in retracts so I'll take the 300W. I just need some small electric retracts. The E-Flite's are too big but I think there are some smaller options now.

David.

well perfect. Yeah the ones i got from are from rc timer. Same as the rest of them. I ran one on a pusher jet with a 7/4 prop and had no problems. Well that means i should get this done faster then. Phil

yes definitly going the retract route. That is the one thing i wish i had on my 40 size. I need to find them light enough and small enough first though. I think this should work if i can keep it light enough.I worse comes to worse i'll retract the gear all the time till i can upgrade the power. Phil

Phil,

At the moment, I'd just go with the GP 10 size retracts - they are small and light - great for this model. Fit perfectly on my Deception 15. The only thing is they have metric struts (2 mm) so you either use a metric wheel on a bent strut (for the axle) or you'll need a coupler at the axle junction (2 mm internal to 1/8" external) to attach 1/8" axles.

I used the GP axles (GPMQ4279) like the ones in the first photo but I'd probably use the DB ones (#613) in the second pic - just a little cleaner and I think lighter.

David.

You could also take a look at the GWS mechanicals. They have two small ones: Micro and Pico. They are pretty low cost at HK. Might consider a servo in each wing panel into a ply shear web for ease of setup.

David.