Curare Build
#101
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From: Engomi Nicosia, CYPRUS
Greetings,
Many thanks Andy and Dave for the suggestions, illustration and discussion.
I see how these joiners would take the loads and allow the anhedral and the incidence to be adjusted.
How long would you have each joiner extend into the stab halves? And how is everything fastened and held together?
Best regards,
George
ORIGINAL: AndyKunz
Hopefully the attached will present the concept in enough different manners that all will grasp.
Hopefully the attached will present the concept in enough different manners that all will grasp.
I see how these joiners would take the loads and allow the anhedral and the incidence to be adjusted.
How long would you have each joiner extend into the stab halves? And how is everything fastened and held together?
Best regards,
George
#102
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From: Rose HIll,
KS
Nose blocks are glued and roughed-in, center block is hollowed out rough. Beginning the landing gear installation in the wing with a layout of the mounting pads location.
#107

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From: Hoodsport, WA
ORIGINAL: jmb52760
I will go with the flaps/spoilers, with the servos in the wing (outboard of the centerline).
I will go with the flaps/spoilers, with the servos in the wing (outboard of the centerline).
Also, I read that you're going with mechanical retracts. Robart 609? 85-degree or 90-degree?
Your build is a real gift to those considering this kit. Thanks for sharing and for answering questions.
EJWash
#108
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From: Rose HIll,
KS
Yes, that is my plan, to have the spoiler/flap combination. I'm not planning to use the original linkage, however. My plan is to have four servos in the wing, and the retract servo at the centerline. I'm just now trying to figure out the best location for the wing servos.
The retracts that I will use are the ones I was able to pick up at the LHS. They are Hobbico retracts. I hope they will be ok, as I have passed the point of no return on that decision/
The retracts that I will use are the ones I was able to pick up at the LHS. They are Hobbico retracts. I hope they will be ok, as I have passed the point of no return on that decision/
#109
Mitch
One note on those particular retracts, loctite the screws/nuts.
They have a tendency to come loose and cause you some grief.
Hobbico has been making them for years; they look allot like the lower MK line.
At the prices I’ve seen for them, you could get 5+ sets to one set of air units. IMO they will be fine.
One note on those particular retracts, loctite the screws/nuts.
They have a tendency to come loose and cause you some grief.
Hobbico has been making them for years; they look allot like the lower MK line.
At the prices I’ve seen for them, you could get 5+ sets to one set of air units. IMO they will be fine.
#110

My Feedback: (3)
Mitch,
Ron's question is the same that I was going to ask. Looking at your photo with the line templates, it appears that the blocks are almost in a tail dragger position! However, 5+" for the gear line sounds right - same distance as on a Tipo wing. Maybe it's just optical. In the second photo showing the blocks installed, they appear to be further back just because of the angle of the photo.
Usually, the CG just hovers in front of the gear axles (~4.9") - make sense?
Oh, I just realized that Don's cores are cut with ailerons included - that's why the gear looks so far forward.
David.
Ron's question is the same that I was going to ask. Looking at your photo with the line templates, it appears that the blocks are almost in a tail dragger position! However, 5+" for the gear line sounds right - same distance as on a Tipo wing. Maybe it's just optical. In the second photo showing the blocks installed, they appear to be further back just because of the angle of the photo.
Usually, the CG just hovers in front of the gear axles (~4.9") - make sense?
Oh, I just realized that Don's cores are cut with ailerons included - that's why the gear looks so far forward.
David.
#115
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From: Rose HIll,
KS
ORIGINAL: pitstop000
Mitch
One note on those particular retracts, loctite the screws/nuts.
They have a tendency to come loose and cause you some grief.
Hobbico has been making them for years; they look allot like the lower MK line.
At the prices I’ve seen for them, you could get 5+ sets to one set of air units. IMO they will be fine.
Mitch
One note on those particular retracts, loctite the screws/nuts.
They have a tendency to come loose and cause you some grief.
Hobbico has been making them for years; they look allot like the lower MK line.
At the prices I’ve seen for them, you could get 5+ sets to one set of air units. IMO they will be fine.
#116

1 ½ inches short, looks more like for a 40 size version. I have three other sources for curare canopies, even for original MK curare kits. PM me if you’re interested. Keep up the good work
FB
#117
Not to worry, your gear position is perfect, I was more concerned about my own. I have a Curare I started many years ago and was wondering how close they are. They are identical. Keep up the good work, like your build. Did you say how you will use the flaps? coupled to Elev, Landing, Dive brake?
Thanks
Thanks
#118
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From: Rose HIll,
KS
I'm thinking about using the flap/spoilers as a speedbrake, for use in controlling speed during a dive, or for slowing down a hot approach to the runway. I can take out any pitch up or down with elevator mix.
#119
Speedbrake during verticals is what I had in mind when I started building my Curare. I was flying the Phoenix 7 in competition and had no intention of switching. I built the Curare to explore the speed brake issues. Hanno used several methods of speed control all interesting. I imagine there are many people out there who tried a speed brake, it would be interesting to hear what they experienced. Will this be your first time using a speed brake? keep us posted on how it works please.
#120

My Feedback: (3)
Mitch,
I measured the MK plans digitally as I was a little puzzled by that gear location. I measured 5.35" at the root from the front of the LE to the gear axles which lines up just a little forward of the rear side of the gear servo.
I think your first photo with the pink angle ruler shows this measurement, just shy of 5.5". The CG is stated as 130-135 mm (min) = 5.12-5.31".
If the gear axles are located at 5.1" from the LE, they would actually be in front of the foremost CG position! The plane will rest on it's tail unless you make it quite nose heavy. The CG might end up being too far forward for good flight.
I'm sorry about this bad news.
David.
Edit: Ahhh! Never mind, I was measuring to the real LE of the wing, not that of the core. Apologies - all's good, whew!
I measured the MK plans digitally as I was a little puzzled by that gear location. I measured 5.35" at the root from the front of the LE to the gear axles which lines up just a little forward of the rear side of the gear servo.
I think your first photo with the pink angle ruler shows this measurement, just shy of 5.5". The CG is stated as 130-135 mm (min) = 5.12-5.31".
If the gear axles are located at 5.1" from the LE, they would actually be in front of the foremost CG position! The plane will rest on it's tail unless you make it quite nose heavy. The CG might end up being too far forward for good flight.
I'm sorry about this bad news.
David.
Edit: Ahhh! Never mind, I was measuring to the real LE of the wing, not that of the core. Apologies - all's good, whew!
#121
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From: Rose HIll,
KS
The only time I have ever built an flown a model with speedbrakes was about 18 years ago. I had a 100 inch wingspan Osprey glider. I originally built it without speedbrakes and found it very difficult to land. Any time you got near the ground and tried to raise the nose to slow down, it would float for what seemed like an additional 100 yards. I added speedbrakes to the upper surface of the wing just aft of the spar. I put the speedbrake channel on the unused throttle stick. Throttle forward was clean wing, throttle back was speedbrakes full. It became similar to flying a powered plane, with the throttle controlling your decent on approach. Spot landings were then possible.
#122
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From: Rose HIll,
KS
David,
The 5.1 inch measurement is to the edge of the foam. The wing leading edge is an additional .3 inches thick. So the current location is 5.4 inches from the leading edge.
That puts the CG roughly .1 inch ahead of the axles as stated (at the rearmost cg location of 5.31).
Mitch
oops, fired this before reading the note at the bottom of your post, never mind as well![8D]
The 5.1 inch measurement is to the edge of the foam. The wing leading edge is an additional .3 inches thick. So the current location is 5.4 inches from the leading edge.
That puts the CG roughly .1 inch ahead of the axles as stated (at the rearmost cg location of 5.31).
Mitch
oops, fired this before reading the note at the bottom of your post, never mind as well![8D]
#123
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From: Rose HIll,
KS
I got tired of the wing and decided to make a mess with the fuselage. I'll clean up tomorrow.
Shape is not nearly complete, I'm sneaking up on it!
Shape is not nearly complete, I'm sneaking up on it!
#124
Hi,
I love pictures when people is slicing or has sliced balsa... I remember when I built my Curare many years ago it was balsa all over the place. I think I had a big rubbish sack filled with balsa before I was finished with fuselage, wing and stab. But I really likeslicing and sandingbalsa. Just wonder if we are the last generation doing this? (with all ARF's these days...)
/Bo
I love pictures when people is slicing or has sliced balsa... I remember when I built my Curare many years ago it was balsa all over the place. I think I had a big rubbish sack filled with balsa before I was finished with fuselage, wing and stab. But I really likeslicing and sandingbalsa. Just wonder if we are the last generation doing this? (with all ARF's these days...)
/Bo


