chrisseawright

yes the old one had a littlie square on top of the wing horn and it looked like the front just pushed down on it with no bolt seems like it could pop off would be a diaster on landing im sure a cartwheel would be the outcome. Paul I cant get that link to open up what is the name of the thread

pitstop000

My Feedback: (26)

Chris, the thread name is “Curare build”,

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9287568/tm.htm

Take some pictures of your linkage area.

Both links work for me?

chrisseawright

another question I have is in alot of the build treads I read they make use of 1/2 to 3/4 glass and polycrilic on the wings. My wing is a foam core with wood sheeting. I have used this method several times before but on foam models like edfs. The wing now as im sanding it doesnt have this done the only glass is were the wing halfes are joined together is this something that needs to be done or just builder preference and also pros and cons. In the foam planes I did it for more strength I assume this would be the same reason here but is it worth the added weight.

Steve25

You could work with carbon ? more strenght, less weight...

Rendegade

The stunt guys are bing on using carbon veil, and while adding 3/4 oz cloth strengthens the structure, my main reason for using it is to hide the grain of the balsa for painting.

That said, silkspan and dope does the same job, and the finishes the japanese get is unbelievably droolworthy.

jmb52760

Yes, the glass and poly on the wing is only necessary if you are going to paint. If you are using monokote (or any other film covering), don't do it.

Mitch

Steve25

I would still reinforce the middle of the wing, where the two foam parts are joined
Have done this with all foam core models I have/had.

dphillips3

Isnt Perry awsome? Last year I got a MK Arrow with IM Products retracts for 15 dollars! My airplane was about in the same shape as your's but I stripped it down and re-worked it. My dad painted the fuse and I covered the wings and stab. I finally flew it for the first time last weekend and it is a bullet. It has a rear exhaust Rossi on it, and all I can suggest to you for speed is REAR EXHAUST!!!!! I have an intruder with a side exhaust Rossi on it and the difference in power is unbelievable.
Good luck with your project, I am soooo proud of mine. To be able to wake up a sleeping pattern plane that has been given up on is about as good as it gets!!!

David,
There shure are alot of David's with similar interest. Don't you think?

jmb52760

Absolutely, THAT glass (the glass at the center section) is necessary for strength!

pitstop000

My Feedback: (26)

Okay Chris,

In general patternship wings and stabs of the Curare era that were painted would be glassed for a better finish and some strength by most builders. Strength will come from internal layout not from the glassed surface.
Since the builder didn’t glass the wing he was probably after weight savings.

Most pilots regarded their patternships as tools to get the job done. I have always have been of that mind set. I have built wings that I didn’t use any cloth on the surface, just sealed and painted. This would give a lighter wing but was more susceptible to hangar rash.

As far as your restoration goes, take a look at the AUW of the plane and the wing itself. Just assume that if you glass it the weight will go up. If your numbers are good and you can take the weight penalty then glass it.

We are not competing with these planes today, so weight would not be of great issue unless you have a plane that is greatly overweight and difficult to fly and land.

Good luck with the restoration. Be careful with sanding the paint off the bare wood.

dhal22

wow that's a good looking arrow. nice job on the rebuild.

chrisseawright

thanks for all the coments and yes pery is awsome last year I got this curare a tiporare, and a bridie xlt, and an old f4 fhantom sadly the fhantom went down on a radio glitch (thats my story and in sticking to it). I got them all for less than 200 bucks. As for the wing the center is glassed I would never take that off, I am going to paint the wing not cover it as far as strength of the wing now at all out level flight I am guessing close to 90mph I can pull straight vertical with no wing bend at all so I thing the internals are good for this speed but dont want to find the failing point if I get faster. Once I get it sanded Ill weight it before it was heavy but it had alot of old paint on it. As far as the landing it comes in hot all the guys at the field laugh at me because I come in fast it just sticks to the runway with no bounce at all but still probably going 50 or so and thats with a dead stick I always kill the motor right before touch down everyone gets a big kick out of it we have fun.

dphillips3

Chris,
What you got going on that tipo? You wanna part with it or the wore out Rossi?

If so let me know I am in Birmingham just down the road from you.

David

chrisseawright

Im going to keep the tipo but would probably let the motor go that is a good looking plane you got there hope mine turns out that nice right now still sanding off the old paint starting to understand why it is as heavy as it is. Were do you fly alot of people from the birmingham area fly at one of the sites I fly at. I am a member of the gadsden rc flyers at kid field in attalla and a member of the slasham valley irregulars at caddell feild in ashville.

chrisseawright

pittstop what do you suggest using to seal the wood for painting thanks

chrisseawright

I have had this engine siting on my desk for a few years now never thought much about it I got it in a bunch of old airplane stuff I bought that was in a guys garage it is a K&B .61 series 75 with a perry pump and carb and has some work done by lee customs. This thing looks brand new but found a leter from lee performance in the box that was apologizing for the crank hiting the case but says everything has been taken care of the leter is dated 19 may 1976. Any thoughts on this motor would it be good on the cuare or should I leave it in the box.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

The Lee/K&B .61 is a great engine. I'd be tempted to put something a little "hotter" in it like an OS FSR/SF, Webra Speed, OPS, Rossi etc.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Nice engine for a sport or semi-scale project. Not so much for a classic pattern bird.

I had a bunch of stock 40's that ran very well.

Actually, I've been thinking of scaling up the bird below precisely for an engine like that K&B 61:

http://www.rcmplans.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=1712

'supposed to be a nice flyer for lazy Sunday's.

David.

chrisseawright

thats what I thought but wasent sure so I thought I would ask. Right now I like the jett motor but still a ways from needing it. The rossi that came on the plane is a silver head and ive been told you cant get sleeves for them anymore would be nice if someone out there could redo these motors from what ive heard they were pretty fast.

pitstop000

My Feedback: (26)

David,

More than just a lazy Sunday flyer, the Side Pocket was a good practice 40 size ship.

Flew a lot like the Deception. I think the designer also had a 60 version that wasn’t published.

It was my first full scratch built with some minor mods and piped rossi; the canopy is still available last time I looked.

You won’t be sorry with the design.

pitstop000

My Feedback: (26)

Chris, what finish are you planning?

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Paul,

Thanks for your input. I didn't mean to imply that it wasn't a good plane, just more of a sport/pattern design a bit like the Tsunami (perhaps a tad more pattern than the Tsunami).

However, I have been appreciating the nuances of the design with the varying wing airfoil, airfoiled stab, wing/stab placements, planform and other such niceties. I can see how it would fly like the Deception as it has a lot in common with it. If the designer made a 60 size version of his plans, it might be worth trying to reach him for such version. It struck me as a good candidate for some SE 60's I have sitting in the box. Then again, I also have way too many YS 45's but thought I might use the new 60 size electric retracts - hence the scale up.

Excellent plans for a scratch build. Did you take any pictures of yours? I assume you built the 40 size version with a pipe running along the side? Retracts? It must have howled on a Rossi!

Feel free to email or PM me so as to not go too off topic on Chris's thread.

David.

chrisseawright

pittstop right now in planing water based paint with automotive clear coat but this is also a question I pose to everyone out there what is the best system for painting the paint that was previously on it came off on you hands after getting fuel on its any ideas appreciated. also what is the best material to use for dings and low spots in the wood this is my first time trying any of this so I am a newbie to it I dont feel like its past my skill level just not sure of the best approach and everyone here clearly has tons more experience than me.

chrisseawright

here is a few more of the motors I got in the stuff I bought I know they are not pattern motors but thought they were cool. One is a fs-60 four stoke with the valves on the outside the other is a fox 15. I have an old WW1 type airplane with cloth covering thats what im going to use the fs-60 on.

chrisseawright

2nd try