That is a neat leadout guide.

Thanks Jim

It was the simplest, fastest, and lightest I could come up with for this bird. In retospect I could have put a little more thought into it and had the nuts on the top hidden.

I am able to adjust the lead out placement over a very wide range, even to outside of the acceptable range.

I will have to think about hidden versions for future builds.

Ken

<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%;">The handle Is started, I have the grip cut and shaped. It is also drilled and tapped for 10/24 bolts. 2 pieces of all thread will be inserted into it and locked with epoxy. The line plate will attach to the ends of the all thread with a pair of wing nuts. One line plate is almost finished; just have to cut the bottom key slot and drill the stove bolts. Two length wise, the control line will pass through these and to the plane. And one drilled cross ways to lock the line.</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">

<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">The grip is two pieces of Poplar 1/2" thick by 1.5" wide and 7" long. The two pieces are epoxied together and the bolts pass through both. I then cit the center portion down to roughly 3/4" thick. Then I rounded the center till it felt comfortable. I then followed up with some small notches for my finger. That made it feel smaller than it actually is, so I avoided weakening it.

Now it is pretty much wait till the transmitter arrives.
<o></o></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Ken
</span><span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">




<br type="_moz" /></span></p>

<div>I installed the pushrod. A small hollow carbon fiber push rod with a little 2/56 all thread attached to each end. I used some Kevlar &frac12; flying line to wrap the 2/56 rods real tight to the carbon rod and the coated the end assemblies with some epoxy. I am using a swivel ball link at the bell crank and a snap ball link at the elevator control rod. ZERO play in the controls and I do mean ZERO.</div><div></div>Ken

That's neat Ken, looks functional, anticipating how you like it in a flight report.

<div>My radio arrived so this afternoon I played with it. I opened up the TX to install a compatible battery connector a standard Futaba female connector. Plugged in the life battery and both LEDs lit. Next I plugged in the servo, the binding plug and then I screwed up big time. The TX manual does have the RX specs. I smoked the RX. The LED no longer lights and it has a distink smoked smell now, oh well live and learn.</div><div></div><div style="margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in">I have found the RX separately on the HK web site and that does have the specs. Turns out the RX is only rated to 6V and the life battery is 6.6v.</div><div style="margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in">So I will now add this UBEC in front of the battery, even more critical as I will be using a LIPO battery 7.4v</div><div style="margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html</div><div style="margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in"></div><div style="margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in">So a new RX and UBEC are on order.</div><div style="margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in"></div><div>In the mean time I am figuring out how to mount the TX to the handle. I will have to modify the throttle trigger some. This is a car TX so the trigger is spring loaded to have a rest position with travel against the spring in both directions ( for reverse?) I did not think about that.</div><div></div><div>I also failed to realize I need a holed drilled through the length of the handle for the battery wires. That is an easy fix.</div><div></div><span style="text-indent: -0.5in;">Ken</span>

<div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">There will be a flight report. Just a will be a bit later than I originally thought George.</span><span style="font-size: 9pt;">

<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">I still have to install the radio system and tank to complete the plane itself. Not a big deal (I think) (I hope).</span>

<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Now if I just don't smoke anything else. JEEZE. As long as I have flown RC I never smoked anything.</span>

<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Even though I smoked he RX I can go ahead and start installing the radio. It just won&rsquo;t work till the new RX and UBEC come in.
</span>
The UBEC only adds another 7.5 grams, so I am still under 1.5 ounces.

<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Ken</span></span></div>

I have to add one more comment about smoking the RX because I am stil feeling rather annoyed.

WHAT A DUMB ASS

Ken

Ken, we all err as humans. As stated:

Sometimes I think our focus is on ourselves instead of the one who is the most important focus in our lives. In the end these mishaps won't mean anything.

It's a small error and not a costly one. The only injury is a little loss in pride. I smoked a Casio Label Maker with the wrong power supply voltage. I had the blade mounted backwards on a ridge ream and ruined a cylinder on a 1967 Datsun PL411 Bluebird cast iron engine block.

I've done my share of stupid things, like not verifying an engine prior to flight, to have it sag and disappear into unrecoverable swamp reeds, losing an entire RC plane (Ace .020 Pee Wee Littlest Stick), or flying just prior to a thunderstorm, losing a Goldberg 1/2-A Skylane radio and all, because updraft currents were strong enough I couldn't spiral the plane down. Lacking experience with ailerons, my first flight in an aileron plane totaled it in a Figure-9. Bought a brand new Cox RTF Stinson L5 Grasshopper, scattered pieces all over the park in 15 mph winds during first lap that ended in a wild dive.

Mine were not ultra expensive, but losses greater than your receiver. [:-]

We just move on ....

I have done a heck of a lot worse than this little woops. Like takeing off for the maiden flght with the ailerons revered. I managed to jam up the gears really bad in a stick transmission. Those things are just time and money. I have made mistakes that cost me blood and a trip to E.R. And I have made a couble of mistakes that should have killed me (coming in direct contact with 7000 volts). But God was not done with me yet.

I was just far enough in time from smoking the RX to truly be mad at myself.

I will be able to do a much cleaner radio install on the next CL Plane and maybe save a few more grams.

I will start mounting the radio after church and when the new order arrives I can just swap it in.

Ken

Thanks George<br type="_moz" />

<div>I have been working on the radio and tank installation.</div><div></div><div>The tank is a 1 ounce clunk. There is a square of &frac14;&rdquo; rc foam between it and the fuse. It is secured with 2 Velcro straps. It is actually a very secure attachment to the plane. It is all plumbed up. Being on the inboard side of the engine It may richen out a bit in flight. We will see.</div><div></div><div>The rest of my build time and by far the biggest chunk of time was the radio installation. The throttle servo is right behind the engine and uses a short straight piece of small diameter piano wire straight to the throttle arm. The servo is not covered over, but I might do so if I can figure an easy way to do so. A plastic blister mght do the trick real nice if I can find on the correct size. I Might be able to mold one with a hot air gun. I have never tried to form plastic before.</div><div></div><div>The rest of the radio is going into a box on the bottom of the outside wing up against the fuse. I only have the battery and the rx (I toasted yesterday), The UBEC will also go in this box. There is a pad of &frac14;&rdquo; rc foam for the radio parts to lay on and will likewise be on the hatch to secure the parts. The servo and battery plugs sit high than the box cover so I cut a relief hole for them. I will see l if I can put a plastic bluster over the hole.</div><div></div><div>I have not yet decided if I am going to install a power switch or just plug and unplug the battery cable into the UBEC.</div><div></div><div>I have to cover the radio box to match the plane and I think I will just paint the servo mounts.</div><div></div><div>Also on the radio box cover I need to reinforce the corner with some fiber glass. It is just balsa.</div><div></div><div>One other note. The connector on the battery has to be changed out. I need to put a servo cable and a standard 2s balance connector on it. The local hobby shop cares the 2s balance leads but are out of stock at this time. I will also have to invest in a charge sack seeing as this is a LIPO battery.</div><div></div><div>On a side note, some of the old covering I used is already starting to peel. So I am going to have to address that issue.</div><div></div>Ken

It's coming right along, Ken. I'll need to get back to my Cessna 177 build. Did a little sanding on the hardwood wing, still have a little ways to go before center planking and covering.

A thought on your tank location. I tried this about 25 years ago and the engine ran real rich. I think the centrifugal force on the tank made the engine run rich, considering the engine is theoretically below the tank or downstream.

Hicontrolliner
I have never tried this tank set up before, but your logic is correct. Just hoping it does not run to rich.

The throttle servo sort of needed the normal tank location. Also I needed that weight as far forward as I could get it. Should have made the nose a 1/2" or even an inch longer. When I dry fitted all the parts that engine location gave me the desired cg location. I failed to allow for the weight of the glue and covering.

If the tank location does cause a proplem I will just have to swap the servo and tank. No place else to put things on such a little bird.

I have seen some plane ser up this way so I thoght I would give it a try.

Ken


<br type="_moz" />

The inboard tank location works for rc, but won't for c/line unless you are running a pipe and need it very rich on the flight setting.

The Velcro makes the tank an easy move. The servo move will take a little more work.

I figured it would run a bit richer.

Ken

<div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">Ok I moved the tank to the other side It just barely fits behind the engine. It was a piece of cake to do, although I did have to move the screws that hold the Velcro back a bit.</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">And I got the throttle servo moved. I had to put a double bend in the push rod to get it to clear.</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">The UBEC and new RX arrived. I set the jumper for 5 volts and hooked everything up after binding the unit. I had to use one of my LIFE batteries from a rc plane temporarily as the Li Po was not charged. Fact is I either got a dead battery or I wired something wrong adding the needed connectors. I had to replace the original connector wit a JST- XH and a Futaba male connector. Well After the wiring my charger would not go into Li Po mode, so either something is wrong or I really need to study up on the charger more. </span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">But with the big LIFE battery everything works. So I still have another hurdle to resolve.</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">I did find this battery </span></div><div>http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html</div><div>It has the JST-XH balance lead just the wrong discharge plug. I can easily resolve that.</div><div>So again the radio weight goes up. I think now to 1.5 ounces. Sure would like to run a smaller servo. Just don&rsquo;t think the gears would survive the vibration of a glow engine. I think it might be worth exploring though. I will definitely build more CLs with 2.4. and would love to top out at about 1 ounce for the radio.</div><div></div>The UBEC will not fit in the Space I have behind the RX. I think I will mount it outside on the inboard side of the plane just forward of the bell crank. It will run a lot cooler mounted outside in the airflow and on the inboard side it will be out of most of the exhaust barf.

Ken

Another oversite on my part was I did not put a cable channel in the handle for the battery. So I clamped the handle up and used a hand saw to cut a groove in back of the handle. I then epoxied a piece of poplar light ply over the back of the handle and trimmed and sanded to match. Now I can stuff the battery lead down the handle.<div></div><div>The throttle trigger on the TX was set up to center with travel both in forward and back of its center position. I guess for reverse. I fixed that by removing the cam arm off the top of the trigger and relocating the spring so it pulls on the trigger vice the cam arm. I also swapped the pot cables for the steering and throttle. The reason for that is there was no trim for throttle, just steering. Now I can set the travel volume and end points.</div><div></div><div>Next is to cut the lower part of the TX off and mount it on my control handle. Also remove the steering knob. At some point I am going to replace the steering pot with a pair of resistor pads and a switch that will mimic the pot at either steering limit. I will mount the switch on the handle for thumb activation. A big enough plane and I just might run a smoke system.</div><div></div><div>Ken</div>

The original trigger.The cam arm on top of it centers the trigger so it has both foward and back motion from its centering point. I removed it and moved the spring. Now centers at the full foward position. The cable conctors for throttle and steering are now swapped and I now have travle volume and end limits on throttle.

Ken

If you needed the tank back on the other side for whatever reason, maybe just run it without pressure?  Maybe that will reduce the richness.  Looking forward to the flight!

Thanks Patrick
I actualy the servo fit really well on the inboard side, once I figured out the throttle push rod bends. It works real nice and no load. The tank; now that was tight but it did fit.

I am going to order tha battery I link to above. I think that will solve the last of the flight pack issues. I will only have to replace the discharge connector. I have found batteries with both connectors being correct, but they are way, way hevier.

Now I am concentrating on the handle TX. I am giving up on reusing any part of the TX case. I will just house the TX in a light ply housing.

Sure hope I don't get dizzy or have vertigo. But with the 2.4 I can slow down or even land.

Ken
<br type="_moz" />

<div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">I had to go to another battery. This one has the correct balance connector, although the discharge connector is wrong. It is a JST and I need a Futaba. So I made up an adapter, JST to Futaba.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">
<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">I am using a UBEC set to 5V to power the Rx and servo. No more fried Rx.</span> <span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">The RX bound perfectly and the throttle works perfectly.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">
<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">So I have spent some time on the handle.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">
<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">I gave up trying to use the upper part of the Tx case, and just made a little box out of 1/8 light play. That is fastened to the handle top with 2 Philips servo screws. The Tx board is a wedge fit in the box and sit on some &frac14; rc foam. I have a hatch over the top with a cut out for the switches, LEDS, and trim knobs. The antenna base is mounted with a screw inside the box.</span></span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">I have the battery cable ran up through the back of the handle.</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">I drilled 2 holes in the box for cables, 1 being power and the other the throttle. </span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">I have run out of light ply and the LHS will not have any till next week.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">So I used the last little scrap of light ply as a base for the battery an 1800 ma Zippy LIFE from HK. I just have the battery strapped to the battery base with Velcro. It is actually rather solid.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">I mounted the TXs throttle trigger assembly to a piece of light ply and glued that to a vertical ply plate under the TX box. It needs some rework. I can move the trigger back another &frac12; inch. And I can move the top of the line plate back a &frac12; inch with some rework on that end. That will reduce overhang a full inch.</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">I still need to fabricate line plate back stops. I am thinking of cutting 2 short dowel pieces and just drill and tap them for the threaded rods. The bottom dowel will also get small (4 40) Allen bolt embedded into it below the threaded rod. This bolt will protrude forward enough to prevent the line plate from going on if I try putting it on upside down i.e. lines reversed. There is a slot in the line plate bottom that will simply fit over the bolt when correctly aligned. Future line plates will just have a hole drilled to fit over the bolt head, much simpler and easier to do.
<span style="font-size: 9pt; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">
Still need to drill the holes in the line guide bolts and clamping bolt.<o></o></span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 9pt; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><o></o></span><span style="font-size: 9pt; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Also I need to order some 20# spectra line.<o></o></span></p></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">Now as for as to the plane.</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">It is basically done. I have to modify the radio box hatch some to clear cables. And install a strap around the UBEC to properly secure it for flight. I may also install battery switch somewhere.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">Some of the covering needs repair or replacement as it is peeling (the blue for the canopy).</span></div><div></div><span style="font-size: 9pt;">Ken</span>

Ken, looks like you are on the way to producing a prototype for a larger airplane later, like a carrier plane.

Yeah the plane could be scaled up and a tail hook added. There is another channel available on the TX (presently have the pot unplugged). I intend to replace that pot with a switch later on. Maybe for smoke???? Or whatever.

This handle is a really crude hack on my part. Will look better with some paint on it.
I could likely cut the weight by 2 or 3 ounces.

But a better way to cut the handle weight would be to just have the throttle trigger and a switch on the handle and a jack to plug into it. Then make a arm band (upper arm) for the TX and battery. Now that would cut the heck out of the weight.

I am getting anxious to get this plane in the air. Heck I still have 3 RC planes to test fly.

Ken
<br type="_moz" />

Yes, I am in the same boat too with several RC planes in near finished configuration. Think you'll try a .60 RC sized CL plane plane later on say, 70 feet lines?

I certainly want to build a big one, say 55" span with at least a .40 in it.