Anyone have any comments (positive or negative) on this engine? I was considering using one on a very light full size flite streak.

Looks like an older box?

As with all ENYA iron piston/steel sleeve engines, make sure you get a good break-in, per mfr recommendations, first.

The 19s can turn some pretty good RPM, so don't prop-load it down to a weaker part of its performance curve.

Should serve well and reliably for a long time...

A Flite Streak, light or not, may be toward the large end of an ENYa 19s potential, but if you can wind it up to somewhat nearer its peak RPM range, it should handle it. I'm thinking launch RPM, in rich 2-cycle, somewhere like 10,500 to 11,500. NOT peaked hard, but with a good cushion of several clicks before it won't gain RPM.

You may be involved with this engine for a long time! Enjoy!

What Lou says about the break-in is important to do. The engines back then often took what today we consider a very long break-in. They do not break-in with just a couple of runs. And if the recommendation is for a certain percentage of oil, and type of oil, follow that if you can.

Bass1,

I have a few of the Enya .15 and .19 engines. These engines will last forever if treated properly,. Lou's advice on the prop loading is right on the money. Break the engine in with 5%-10% fuel that you've added some axtra castor oil to. I usualy add 3-5 oz to a gallon. Castor oil is the key to keeping these engines alive. After you've run a gallon or more of fuel through the engine you can get some extra power by uping the nitro content. I run a my Enyas with up to 30% nitro (with added castor oil) with no ill effects.

Good luck and plan on running that engine the rest of you life.

Darren

Thanks about the heads up on the break-in. That's probably why my old Vecos in the early 60s never seemed to have all the power that I expectedAny tricks in freeing up a stuck engine? Years ago we used to disassemble and soak overnight in gasoline but there's got to be a better/safer way.

IMHO, the best way to break-in an iron/steel is to use a series of short (~1 min) runs, followed by cool down to ambient temperature. The heat cycles are what breaks it in.

Freeing up: First try heating it in the oven. That should soften the oil so you can turn it over. If that doesn't work, try removing the plug and backplate, then squirt some fuel in the plug hole, exhaust and lower crankcase. Install a prop and try to turn it over. DON'T USE EXCESSIVE FORCE!

I like ENYA engines. My experience with the .19 is limited to the 19-V:

George

I learned to fly RC with an Enya 45. That engine was well used had little compression but never missed a beat. Awesome little engine!

I ran an Enya 19 on an ARF Flite Streak and it was a very good match. I didn't use any gear and the weight was around 23 ounces. I used a 9-4 prop but can't remember what the RPM's were.

All good info! Actually I'm trying to duplicate /emulate an era gone by for me. In my early control line days (11 years old=1963) .. a sailor gave me his Flite Streak with a K&B Torpedo(green head) 19 built very light and to perfection! He was being stationed back to "the States" and couldn't stuff it in a HU2 copter for the return trip. I was used to .29s and .35s in my Ringmasters and Streaks and thought that the .19 was gonna' be wimpy!. WRONG!.... I was a kid and built "heavy" and really didn't know what sandpaper was [sm=what_smile.gif]for but when I flew this K&B .19 powered Flite Streak... expertly built/ finished/ balanced by a seasoned expert( old 19 year old guy), I became the club "STUNT MASTER".... Low wing loadings RULE!! That experience has helped all of my subsequent planes to fly "purty dang good'... So now I'd like to experience those cool 'ole' control line days all over again! Where can you find EZ-Just and Hot Rock handles?? I also will need to fabricate a reliable and safe self launching system as helpers will be hard to come by.

Years ago someone got electricuted by power lines and the family successfully sued the company that made the handles. The company went bankrupt.

George

[X(]Wow, Not a pretty picture at all! I found a few Hot Rocks on Ebay but none of the larger EZ Just handles. What is everyone using these days? Also I remember using 60 ft lines but I don't remember the gauge. I do remember buying a set of 60 foot lines that were too heavy when that's all the base hobby shop had in stock. What is the popular/best choice for .19 to .35 air frames?

bass 1 i grew up in va now live in vegas please send me an email [email protected] i am still in contact with most of the norfolk areomodlers they fly at fentress. i would be happy to put you in contact with my dad he will be very helpfull he might even have an extra e=z adjust

mathison205, I grew up in Va as well then moved to Vegas in the early 80s for about 12 years. Now I'm back in Va. I'll send an email, thanks

Most use a closer spacing than the larger E-Z Just, more like the E-Z Just "Hot Rock". I still have a Hot Rock but it's about worn out. I like one designed by Tom Morris. It's inexpensive and adjustable. There are many types available. You might want to check some of the online hobby shops for what's available. Adjustable line spacing as well as length is a good thing.

AMA rules for stunt require .012 cables for .0801 to .25, and .015 for .2501 to .40 cu in displacement. I would not recommend solids as they are harder to maintain. BTW, other events such as speed, combat, and Navy carrier have different requirements. For sport/stunt the diameters shown are fine. I would suggest 52' length for the .19 and .60' for the .35. These are standard available lengths. Some can fly 60' with a .15 engine, depending on the plane.

You may want to peruse the AMA site for a lot of useful information such as line wrapping.

George

See (www.supercoolprops.com/articles) Bob Allen wrote "I recommend that anyone interested in model engines should have at least one of these, either in the V series or later VI (that's the one with the little rectangular bump on the top of the bypass, just beneath the fins) although the 4005 BBs are now getting quite scarce." He's talking about the Enya .19. Because of this quote I bought a .19 VI 4006 this month and am considering a second. I haven't run it yet as I'm waiting for break-in fuel and a prop from Sig Manufacturing. Oh, and Im waiting on the U.S.P.S. for my new Enya .40 Super Sport BB. Does anyone have a suggestion for a nice aircraft for this little jewel .19? My .40 is going in a Brodak Oriental.

Bill

Bill

Bill, I have three of the SS40S plain bush engines. Two from Ebay, one new. Still haven't decided what to mount the current one in, excellent power their only downfall being weight. I have only bench run one but man, what a silky, even run they give. I'm thinking of a Sig Banshee with the wing moved forward 1/2 to 2 inches to compensate for the weight plus muffler. The Supercool props article is very encouraging with this engine.

I just received an eBay Enya .19 VI. The seller listed it as "This engine has been run . . .no dings or damage anywhere . . . It is in very good condition . . . A nice choice for your next project . . . Yep, and my next project was to completely tear down the Enya because the iron piston and steel liner were rust fused together. Lots of heat, lots of cleaning and reassembly. It's going to be OK I think. The point of this post is that this little engine is an engineering beauty. Brass threaded insert in the head for the glow plug, full floating wrist pin (hollow) with machined brass wrist pin retainers inserted into the ends of the wrist pin - a la the L-88 Chevrolet Big Block. The engine was run but not much. The underside of the cylinder head still had bare aluminum exposed. Maybe one tank of fuel? I'm going to break it in like a new engine. I'm impressed with the quality and I've heard a-lot about that on RCU.

Bill

I recently put an Enya .19 in a completely destroyed Ringmaster I salvaged out of the garbage can and rebuilt, because the already drilled mount holes happened to fit it perfectly.

I didn't have much expectations for it flying that sized plane beyond round'n round slow trainer, but turning an 8x6 it flew the Ringmaster with truly surprising authority on a set of 55' .012's.

I bought my two Enya .19s just for their own sake - as engines. Now I'm thinking about a plane for them. I don't like profile planes but the Brodak Flying Clown ARF is a probability. It would be a nice slow flyer for an old guy like me and my dad had one when I was a kid.

Bill

If you like to build from plans, the full fuselage Peacemaker and the Little T-Bird come to mind.

George

Thanks George. I'll have a look. I do build from plans but sometimes you can buy an ARF for less money (Chineese labor?) and certainly less time investment. I'm not crazy about profile fuselages I'll take a look at your suggestions and thanks.

Bill

GCB,

Do you know where I could purchase a set of plans for the old Veco Tom Tom? My last Tom Tom was 40 + years ago and I thought I would build another just for grins. I may even get a chance to fly it, between my regular RC, Sam Radio Assist. I still have a few old control liners that I fly on occ.. Any suggestions as to a source would be much appreciated.


Ralph Cooke
[email protected]

Try Tom Dixon's plans under the Classic list: http://members.tripod.com/~TomDixon/plans2.htm

George

Thanks George, I figured you would know where to get the plans.

Regards,

Ralph

Hey Ralph, does your source have plans for a Li'l T-Bird?

Bill