tikaboo

A question for Cap'n Pugwash as a UK DF user

1. I presume you ordered direct from the rctoys website?
2. When ordering you just asked for a 35Mhz frequency band?
3. Did you have any probs with customs & excise? Can imagine a big bill at a Parcelforce depot.

Always fancied a DF but then I fancied an LMH corona too but no damn uk distributors!!! WHY??????

So far I've gone down the vectron - snelflight hoverfly - hummingbird - Now awaiting XRB SR (the r/c version).

Pipefish

I got 3 packs, selling 1 for US$ 80 (with the original connector)
2100 Mah 11,1V

Captain Pugwash

hey there tika
yes i did order from DFI site
no i didnt get a 35mhz band it comes with 75mhz(american frequency) ive never once had the slightest glitch because of this
i had to pay ÂŁ100 import duty

hope this helps!!

Nyala

Hi All

The best way to remove the ratchet on the throtlle stick is to open the transmiter, Remove the back cover with the battery pack. You will see the gimbals and on the throtlle gimbal there is a small metal lever that presses on the ratchet of the stick. Remove the lever, it has one screw and you can put it back if you ever need too. Its better than sanding the ratchet ( less work too )

I am having problems with the flyer cutting out under power after 2 or 3 mins flight. I think it could be the (or a) capacitors on the motors. As soon as I have figured it out I will post the cause and repair here for everyone to see.

Unfortunately working takes up so much time I have to wait for the weekend to continue.

keep posting. its good !

Pipefish

Hey Nyala,

you think that can be the capacitors? I´ve heard that lots of people don´t even use capacitors at all and have the same performance and durability...

Regards

AeroRecon

I was told by DFI that the caps help to reduce 'jumpiness' in the motors which results in a jerking or twitching motion while flying. I did notice it when I first started flying as I was flying on asphalt and the bird tilted and ate the cap off the bottom. Without realizing this the next flights were sort of twitchy....

tikaboo

Great, thanks Cap'n.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Nyala

Yep Pipefish

I mailed Mike at Spectrolutions, He suggested that as the place to start looking. There are 3 different ways to mount the caps. one across the 2 poles (1 x 1uf capacitor), one across the poles and one from each pole to the chassis of the motor ( 2 x 1uf & 1x 47uf ) and just one from each pole to the chassis ( 2 x 1 uf ). I now have the last option installed and am having this problem. The catch is it worked for a good 10 flights no problem with this configuration then suddenly it stopped and dropped like a brick. Lucky for me this happend indoors after the last flight which I did off my balcony, 3rd floor apartment. That would have been tragic and expensive but it would have been a cool video ! I had the eyecam running.

The caps suppress interference generated by the motors which could make the craft twitch. Its also a EU requirement to make it CE mark approved.

I will find the problem its just a matter of time.

Pipefish

Do you think the info about the rotors are running correctly back to the 4 mosfet onboard?

Ragards

Nyala

Hi Pipefish

I don't think any info about the rotors but a cut-off circuit that measures current draw on the motors. As soon as there is too much draw from any motor, the whole board shuts off to protect itself. If I cannot find the problem I will check in with Spectrolutions again. Its a mission having to send the board for repairs because it takes so long to ship around the world.

Thank God its Friday

Pipefish

Next Monday I´m buying Robbe Speed 300 or Graupner Speed 300 for my DF, Wich of´em you think is best?

Regards!

Pipefish

What kind of benefits I´ll have controlling my DF with a Futaba 8UHP instead of the original 4CH?

Nyala

Hey Pipefish

Stick with the Graupner speed 300 if you have a choice, it is the same mabuchi motor as on the DF. The robbe is a different make and you would need to drill and tap a mounting hole on the motor. The Graupner is the original fit.

As to the Futaba question if you feel more comfortable with the 8UHP and you have the correct frequency and it works then great, use it. Other than that the DF needs no extra mixing or anything fancy to keep it in the air just nerves of steel and good reflexes

Oh yes, by the way you should buy a small multimeter to measure your batteries, charger output, charger input, motor current etc. It takes some of the guessing out of whats going wrong. So it should be able to do Volts AC and DC, Amps Ac and DC, and Resistance in Ohms. If you need help how to use one, I will teach you.

One more thing, make sure the speed 300 motors are 7.2 v because there is also a 6 v version.The Speed 300 7.2 v is from Graupner part no. 7302.

Have a good one !

Pipefish

Nyala,

no words to say about your gentility in answer me and offering me on the mulimeter paths...

... very kind, if I need help, I´ll ask you, ok?

And if you need anything, don´t hexitate in droping me a line, ok?

Best regards

P.S. You´re from USA?

Pipefish

Nyala, guys...
need help:

As you know, I´m having problems with my DF, because when it flies, it does it up till 15 to 20 feet and goes down [:'(]

I had opened all my 4 DF motors to see if the problem was with them, but for my surprise they´re almost new!!!

I´m suspecting the blades (because the batteries are just ok, all my 3 packs were measured and flought in lots of models just perfectly).

I suspect that they (the blades) are bending in the air...

But I don´t wanna pay 30 US dollars for a set (plus 100!!!! dollars for shippng !!!!!!).

So, I wanna try GWS ones (2 of´em inverted of course). I think about building an aluminum or inox piece of metal to convert the original two hole prop for the universal (and GWS) one hole (that of course) will be located between the two original ones.

Wich size of prop you think will be my best choice [] [] [] ?

Thanks in advance

Nyala

Hi Pipefish

I have not tried any other rotor blades other than the ones I made out of balsa wood. However why don't you try to stiffen the blades by glueing a strip of something across the length. You could then sandpaper the strip to make it aerodynamic.

Can you hover the DF for any lenght of time ?

Regards

Pipefish

Yes, I can hover it for more than 11 minutes but with full stick the DF stays in about 2 feet high.

[][][][][][]

Nyala

Hmmmm, It sounds like a motor issue , Even if they look good, the magnets might be heat damaged and as a result they lose some magnetism, just a bit but enough to influence the maximum power output. so the look good and run ok too but less power. You could use a meter to measure your output from the board to check if there is a problem problem there!

Also check that the magnets have not slipped down in the can, they do that after bumpy landings sometimes.

When you getting the new motors ?

The bad news for the day is I have to send my DF to Spectrolutions cause there is a problem with the board cuttig out ! Awwww Darn !!!

[&o]

CanadaKen

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Guy's...
I was on at the beginning of this string (can't beleive it's still going), when I first purchased my DF III from the RC Universe auction. Great deal complete for $500us.
I have been flying EPlanes for a few years now so the DF was not too great a challenge. I am having a problem with my front motor. It seems to cut out on me (very dangerous) and I have noticed that when I slightly "put pressure" on the battery clip connector (at the circuit board), the front motor stays on ok. It doesn't seem to be loose at the board and any battery pack including my large 12v motorcycle battery (on tether) does the same thing. I use tape to keep pressure on the connector but this is failing now.
Could this battery connector be the cause of this type of symptom to the front motor?
Is this a UPS to Spectro?

Also, I lost both my green (lobster eye) lights. Anyone know the best place to replace them?

Grounded for now....

Thanks,

Ken

Pipefish

What kind of problem occur to your board?

Pipefish

Ken,
can you send us a photo of your suspect connector ?

Nyala

Hi Guys

These boards are rather sensitive, my board was cutting power to all 4 motors in mid flight. Ken, it sounds like the board is also damaged. What happens is that you can cause a crack in one or some of the tracks by connecting or removing the battery connector. This tends to flex the board enough to break it. I have made an extension plug to solve this problem. I think you will need to send your board to Spectrolutions. These boards are very difficult to repair yourself. The dead LED's are probably a symptom of the board failure.

Hey Pipefish, have you tried to fly your DF on a tether cord without any batteries on the flyer ? If the DF flies ok like that you can be sure that the motors are weak.

Good luck to you all, I am grounded for the next few weeks []

Pipefish

Yes, on tether cord, work fine.....

AeroRecon

Sorry for the change of topic but thought I would throw this out.

Anyone use or have any ideas for attaching something that creates a visual 'boom' sort of thing like a regular helicopter has? To use as a visual reference when flying above or at a distance.

Thinking of an extra carbon rod attacted to the back then a smaller piece at a right angle vertical so as to clear the rotor. Then attach something that is CLEARLY visible from a distance so I know which way the thing is heading.

I have no problems flying an other helicopter in RealFlight G2 at a distance or facing me. But the DF is much harder. Scares me to get it up over my house and fly back and forth for good video. Too hard to judge direction while moving slowly or in a hover.


Any one have other ideas or techniques that help?? Much appreciated!!!

--Allen

Pipefish

This is the weak point of DF, I use to paint my front blades with very different colors than the other 3