GTX SlotCar

That's a good point. It's too bad they don't add another slide switch on these that "allows" idle up mode. So, you'd have to have that switch ON in order for the idle up switch to work. It would be easy to add one, though.

{EH}Talon

I went to RadioShack and i got some fuses ,

3 10 amp fast acting fuses and 3 3 amp fast acting fuses

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I still have no idea how many amps the each motor draws. That info should be in the owners manual. I wonder why it isn't...

OttoNP

Just a quick glance,

I believe the RMS current is around .5-.75 A for the tail and 2.6-2.8 A for the main motor. In a stall condition (tail rotor jammed), the tail motor will draw around 6.5 A at full throttle, so a 3 A fuse would be a good choice for that circuit. For the main motor you'd probably want at least 5 A, so 3 A and 6 A sound like good starting points. I would be careful at first (test on ground low a lot), you don't want a fuse to blow while your in the air....

Note that RMS current isn't the same as instant current, the motors recieve pulses of voltage and current, not constant voltage/current.

GTX SlotCar

This should give you an idea. Somewhere else it says that they can draw as much as 12 amps at 8.4v, but I can't find right away and I'm too lazy to look

SPEED 300 6V Motor GR3306 SPEED 300 6V Electric
Watts...........70
Volts............9.6
Gear Ratio.....5:1
Prop Size......8x6
Amps...........10
Thrust .........15 oz.

theradioflyer

In reply to GTX Slotcar, I dinged up the baldes alittle and lauched the tail rotor blade. I decided to put the $23 plastic blades that I got at www.Hobby-Sports.com on. That's when I had the big one that I didn't get on vid.. The plastic blades snapped the tail boom in half and shot the training ping-pong ball across the yard. After I put the new Bell/Hiller upgrade on I noticed that the main shaft is slightly bent. It's not to bad though, VERY little wiggling. With the Bell head, this heli really flies like the choppers on AFPD. BTW I put the woodies back on. I can't wait to get the nuts to try the aerobatic paddles on and really screw around. I'm going to wait untill I can afford it though

theradioflyer

Hey Guys, I went out today after a storm past a the wind was dead! I got a nice little vid of flying the Bade. I love this little thing! It's not a great vid cause I just set the recorder on my car but you get the picture! I have a question, when coming back to a hover with the flat airfoil bades I have a hard time because the head speed is so slow in forward flight, even with the trim all the way up, it wobbles as I try to get back into a hover. Am I trying to get into a hover to quick or is this a flat blade problem and need to switch to sysmetrical blades to keep the head speed up? BTW this is only the third time out with a heli, I have had no other experince other than AeroFly Pro Deluxe! This is so much FUN!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NX-TPgpo1NY

JoshKrenz

I just got my BCP in the mail. Pretty sweet. It needs some adjustments and I already partly screwed up a set of blades. It's now out of batteries. How long should I charge them? It has the stock battery pack and charger.

Thanks

theradioflyer

Should be 2 to 2.5 hrs for the stock NiMh bat. I'm new at this too! Make sure you check out a couple of pages back the links that Zooland1 Posted. These will be VERY helpfully and you will be less likely to smash your stuff up if you take a couple of hours to research and read!

JoshKrenz

Thanks. He seems to be very informative when it comes to these little beasts.

-Josh

zooland1

What you are seeing is the airfoil reacting to dead air. While in forward flight you're making your own wind. That's not the appropriate term, but the best I can think of for now. As you slow down you want to slightly increase head speed to maintain the resistance. Even with the syms you'll see some of this, just not as dramatic. The flat blades will give you more stable flight but aren't really made for "fast" forward flight. I think for the amount of time you've spent, you are doing great. Keep it up.

zooland1

By the way, what's the sound track? That was pretty cool.

GTX SlotCar

Sometimes if the blades are too tight this can happen.

JoshKrenz

Ok

I've been learning in my basement and it has kinda thick carpet (havn't had any big damage yet. ) so when I crash sideways the blades just bend towards the center (meant to do this I assume). Usually my helicopter goes right side up even when it crashes like this. Is it ok to just turn on the power and have the force of the motor spin the blades back into their right places? It works alright, but I'm just wondering if this will have any longterm effects, or will make my helicopter's parts shortlived?

Thanks

GTX SlotCar

I suppose it depends on how fast you start them back up and how tight your blades are, but I do it often. Just let them spin up slowly.

chelilim

First off, I would like to say thanks for the information. I would still recommend fuses in conjunction with the lshutoff throttle method because I have had the situation where my heli glitched severly, chewed up the main gear, and just about beat itself to death. Bringing your throttle to the off position during a crash is just good heli practice. When I finally got to it, there were blade pieces all over the place.

chelilim

I would straighten your blades out. The blades being out will cause unneccesary vibrations in your helicopter. I like to minimize forces such as this whenever I have money invested in electronics. These may be for a short period of time but why put your equipment through it when it is just as easy to take a moment to straighten out the blades. Plus you should be performing a short preflight of the heli to see if anything has been broken due to the last crash. It doesn't have to be long but a couple of seconds can save you some headache later. I had a tail motor that fell out midflight. If I had taken a second to check the tail motor before taking off i would have found the loose screws.

chelilim

I noticed you wrote that you got a 10 amp fuse. Just want to warn you that the 10 amp fuse will give you less protection then the 7.5 amp fuse. It will let more current through your 4in1 wich is what you are trying to prevent. Also, I don't know which size fuse that radio shack carries but automotive parts stores will cary the mini blade fuses. Those will save you a little bit of weight.

JoshKrenz

Ok thanks.

I havn't really gotten if off the ground too long (it still needs a lot of adjusting). But I finally destroyed the blades. I on accident hit the Idle Up and it all went downhill from there.

I think it's about time to invest in some plastic or carbon fiber blades.

-Josh


P.S. I'm kinda dissapointed in the short fly times. What size batteries work good in the BCP? Or should I just invest in a couple of spare stock ones?

chelilim

If you get the carbon fiber blades, be aware that the harder blade means another part in the heli is more likely to break. Also, carbon fiber blades are fairly safe when the are whole. But if they are damaged (ie cracked, chipped...) get rid of them. At that point they are more likely to hurt you. The carbon fiber can splinter and do you some painfull damage. I would put on some eye protection when getting near the heli incase you have a glitch. Not to scare you away, just be knowledgeable about them. Again when they are whole and undamaged they are fairly safe. But if they are bad don't risk it.

I would run a 1100 3s lipo battery and get like a 9t pinion for the motor. That usually seems like a good setup. Just be sure to educate yourself on the proper care of Lip (Lithium Poylemer) batterys. You cant treat them like other batterys.

{EH}Talon

yay,

after ALL day ( really ) i finally finished my heli


i put lights on my heli

1 yellow in front , 2 green on back skids , 1 red on tail

and i did the fuse mod

Tail fuse(sorry its bright i was to close)


Main fuse


im using a 3 amp fuse for the tail and a 10 amp fuse for the front there micro blade fuses BTW


and for the lights im using 5 volt LEDS with 10ohm resisters i think other wise theyd fry also wireing with enamal coated magnet wire

i also balenced/repaired my blades and i did a quick 3 or 4 second hover in my room to test and it works good still after the crash

and i hope you enjoy looking at my crapp pictures

GTX SlotCar

I don't go to full throttle right away. I spin it up slowly. I've never had a problem, but I guess I'm not looking at the 100 year plan

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Excellent video !!! Cool tune too !!!

toprudder

What I do is to flip the idle-up switch on once the rotors have spun up. This will keep the head speed up and let the blades go a little more negative pitch when you are transitioning from forward flight back to a hover. Just remember that if you do crash, you need to turn this switch off and pull back the throttle stick.

zooland1

The idle up curve is set up so that once you are past center stick the speeds will match. You should flip to idle up once you are in hover. If your radio is tuned properly you should notice little difference in head speed when you flip the switch. It is ok to flip it on the ground, but your stick should already be at mid point. That way your motor won't get a sudden surge of juice. You can actually snap the main gear if you flip it too early.