Zooland1

I orderd the stock pos. remeber,I am determined to fly this thing stock.
How ever I've been thinking about building my own.(a back up parrot)
I too can not find that canopy site, I would like to get the white one and
maybe paint it. You know, a great Winter project.

I will check out the GWS H50, because thats what I want to do
when I build mine. Lots of upgrades Less stock. Sounds like
what your doing?

Bob

dignlivn

Mine never was stock, I started with the metal swash and MX400 LG before I ever flew it. Also added the on/off switch from the start. Had the DD tail on after the second flight. Originally flew with 2s and 10t, then got a good deal on a couple 3s's so I picked up an 8t motor. I toss back and forth from flat blades to syms and back again. I don't fly 3d, so I kinda like the simpleness of the flats. Now that I've tried the plasti-blades, I may pick up a set of them. I'm even thinking of putting a set on my Pico. I saw a few posts where they cut the ends off a set of the Trex fiber blades and they were supposed to be very good for the blade. They're worthless on the rex so maybe they'll be good for the blade or Pico. Definitely worth a shot, especially since they're only $10 a set.

Zoo

No 3D for me either,it is not what I want to do. I am re training
my brain/thumbs from fixed wing days. I notice that I want to pull
back on the stick when I'm up off the ground. (right stick) I guess
my brain thinks elevator control for a split second. I now find
myself conentrating on the rotor disk attitude more.
I too have put on an on/off switch, many months ago. I think
it's much safer that way. Wonder why E-flite has not figured
that out?

Bob

dignlivn

Zoo

Hers my switch.

http://bladecprepair.com/smf/index.php?topic=212.0

Bob

dignlivn

hi every1,
i want to ask if a futaba 7c will work with a blade cp?

I think Zooland1 is using that radio?

Bob

dignlivn

Did you order a stronger motor (GWS H50) or stock (piece of crap)? Just curious BTW I tried to locate those canopies you asked about earlier. Couldn't find anything. I'm going to start forming my own. Hoping to come up with some very interesting shapes if it works out. Currently working on a Trex head for my rex[8D] Or maybe a dragon's head for the either the blade or rex..
[/quote]


Zooland1

I found the canopy,it is at horizon part#eflh1314 @ $8.99. White
with no decals.

Bob

dignlivn

I use the 7c on everything. The only thing you need is a matching crystal. If you read back a hundred pages or so, there's a pretty long discussion on settings.

Well I just hovered another pack with the new setup and I love it. Im running dual tail motors now and without a doubt it beats the direct drive by far. WAY more authority now and after a whole battery pack the motors arent even warm. Please dont ask why I would do something like this but I wanted to know how warm. I actually put my lip on one of the motors cuz I thought I just couldnt feel the heat with my fingers . It was barely even warm. Im also running 2 heat sinks on each motor. Ive tested DD and dual motors and the dual motors wins easy

What is the dual tail motor?

Dual tail motor mod is running 2 stock tail motors at the same time. I bought my motor mount at helidirect.com but Im sure theres other places that sell it too. The mount allows you to mount 2 of the stock tail motors and they split the current and workload. Im very impressed with this setup. I also tried the DD but the dual is best IMO.

Ok, thanks. Can you explain a little more about how to do it? And what is DD? Thanks I am still trying to learn this stuff. I am doing pretty good. I am still flying straight out and then backwards stright back. Trying to keep it from going side to side. My Cp is still wearing training gear. So far no bad crashes. Just some rough landings and one broke skid. Once I get better I am going to install Supper Skids.

DD = direct drive It uses a slightly larger motor.I think its a GWS IPS50 or 100. Sorry I forget.
I was thinking because of the largr motor and the fact that it can take a little more current that it might have a longer life soan than stock tail motors. It MIGHT be a little longer ,has pretty good tail authority but it still burns out pretty quickly. You use the stock motor mount, buy a GWS motor and prop and a special prop adapter. The money diff. between the DD and dual motor isnt a lot so your better to go with the dual motors. BUT if youre planning on staying with the stock battery and motor then DD is a good upgrade I think

Dual motors live longer cuz they split the current. If youre running an 11V battery then this is the way to go for sure. You need a special motor mount that allows 2 motors to be mounted on it.You keep the stock tail rotor and gear. When you wire it theres 2 ways.
Red wire from the 4 in 1 goes to a positive post on 1 motor.then run a short wire to the positive on the other. Then the negative wire gets hooked up the same way on the negative posts.

Theres a website called blade cp repair. Im not exactally sure of the address but they show how to hook up the direct drive setup and may even explain it. Ill post the site if I can find it.Ill try get a pic or 2 of my dual tail setup just after lunch.Gotta go get batteries for my camera

Psikelly, did you have any balance issues? I have the mount and motors but am considering shortening the tail boom 3/4" before putting them on. I run both light E-Flite 860 mah and heavier TP 1320mah packs.
Chris

Im actually a little tail heavy.More than Id like to be but I can compensate for this by using the fore and aft trim and it levels it right off. But I want to get is leveled the right way.My battery is as far forward as it can go. Actually a little more because its hitting the front of the canopy a bit.

I use Thunderpower 1320s. Running the brushless motor and esc. and G90 gyro. I was sure with the added weight of the ESC and gyro that it would balance. Im going to saw off half an inch off the boom like you say too. But for now Im fine with just adjusting the trim to compensate.

Psikelly here is a thread that will interest you; you can cut right to the chase (post #75) if you wish but SSG Scott's got lots of good stuff on tail motors here: [link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492222[/link]

Thanks for the info.. Is the dual motor set up somthing that helps it fly better? Or only to make the tail motor last longer. Is this somthing I should do now or wait until my stock motor gives out?

The main (and only)reason I did it was to prolong the life of my tail motors by splitting the current. I dont know that it helps you fly better though.I also use the 11V lipos so if you fly a lot like I do then youre gonna burn a few motors over time.Some guys are only getting like 10 flights off a tail motor.At 10 bucks a pop this can add up. So if youre looking to save money in the long run the dual motors is a good way to go. To set up duals you need the special motor mount. The one I bought was $20 I think at helidirect but Im sure other places have them also. Then add another $10 to get an extra tail motor. So for $30 you now have a dual tail setup with a little soldering. So just look over what I just said and decide if you really need them or if you can live without em

psi KELLY
thanks for your help. I think I will wait for now.

No prob. Personally I think the best way to learn to fly a CP is stock. Then after you progress and your abilities increase THEN you can begin upgrading certain parts that you have issues with. If money permits it and if its a heli you feel you want to improve and keep for a long time.

Have fun with it

Get a lipo or just buy the pro. Actually the best way to learn is on the simulator. It costs the same as a heli but you can fly many differant helis. Thats how i can now fly my CP Pro because of 10 mins on the sim. You just need to get the hang of the leftward drift and dont over compensate.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4709201/tm.htm

Heli direct may not be a place I will buy stuff from again, please read regarding the shaft upgrade.

I believe Steve goes by what the manufacturer claims in most cases. I'm sure he doesn't test fit all the parts he sells to all the helis. In this case, there's no way of knowing if the manufacturer claims the part works for a BCP, or if Steve is just guessing that all HB CP2 parts will fit the BCP. They obviously don't. I know that some manufacturers also think all the parts are interchangeable, as in the case of the "upgraded landing gear" he sold, which in now unfortunately called Super Landing Skids by the manufacturer so customers will think they are buying authentic SuperSkids™. He sold HB upgraded landing gear to fit the BCP because the manufacturer said it was the right one. But, it's a different mounting system entirely. I replaced dozens of the mounts (free) for those customers and had to email the manufacturer (who didn't believe he was wrong) 3 times and finally beg them to listen to me before they changed it.

In the case of the main shaft, the BCP part is different from the HB CP2 part. So is the main frame, including the tower that the shaft goes through. In this area, the Walkera DF4 frame is also different than both of the others.
Steve is a discount reseller. He doesn't make a lot of money on the items he sells, but relies on volume. Overall, I think he gives better service than most resellers that rely on heavily discounted prices. We just have to realize that he's not an E-flite reseller, he's an Esky reseller. So, none of the parts he sells for the BCP or BCX are actually E-flite parts.

I buy a lot of stuff from Steve so I visit his site often. I saw that shaft and gear and was wondering myself how it could work for both helis. Cut the bottom of the shaft off with a Dremel tool, maybe?
Anyway, I don't think Steve is intentionally misleading anyone. If you ask him for a refund, I hope he'll do the right thing and give it to you. You have the right to be upset.
As for the review on his site that says the new spur gear is a smaller diameter and will likely cause lower head speeds, he's got it backward. It'll give higher head speed.

The DD motor is a GWS H50, which is not an IPS motor. I've never tried the dual motor, but have had the same H50 on my blade for over eight months. I think it is starting to weaken a little, but still flies great. I keep threatening to go brushless when and if it ever fails, so I think it's just hanging on out of spite. I also don't use a prop adapter. I use the small GWS 3020 props which are push-ons. They are very small and light which is why I think my motor has lasted so long. I bought the adapter for the 4" blade but it is now on one of my planes since I didn't use it on the blade. I've heard a lot of mixed emotions over time about the DD mod, but I personally love it. 100 times better than stock, no worries about gear mesh.

Just as a side note, I buy a lot of stuff from Heli-direct. I've never had a problem with anything I've bought from them, but I already new about the differences before I started. I also have a machine shop so making things work is no problem.

zooland1,orlbuzz and marineatbn

Well the new stock T motor arrived today. I took advantage
yesterdays bad weather and reduced my bird to a bowl of parts
and re set it up with new bearings,main shaft,spindle, blades and
now the tail motor. I'm sure I will have to re adjust the prop.pot,
when this rainy weather moves on. Soon I hope.

Bob

dignlivn