navihawk

I would try a New tail Motor first, there Cheap
in Every way. Were is your rudder trim ? Have
you tried it 3/4 to the right and throttle trim at
1/2 way ? The tail rotor should spin first at them
settings ( with a Good motor). I know orlbuzz (Gary)
had/has an issue with his tail all of the sudden. His
problem sounds different than yours tho. He did
try a new Motor, which did not help on his bird.
I think he's leaning toward a 3n1 problem now.
Just my 2 cents worth, let us know what fixes it.

Bob

dignlivn

I would definitely swap the tail motor. It sounds like the brushes are binding and it's very difficult to "nudge" while in flight. By lipo I assume you went with 3s, and by doing so had to change to the 8 or 9t pinion. If you didn't change the pinion that would explain your tail problem. They burn out very quickly on 3s with a 10t pinion. Also be sure to add the heat sinks if you don't have them.

Well i got the aerobatic kit and installed it and took it up flying today. The tail is rock solid, the blades were very well balanced and i tried my first loops and rolls today. What a blast. yeah i used the stock motor with a 3 cell lipo and i guess it was over when i saw the smoke coming from the tail motor. Thanks for all the help.

The blade is inheriently unstable at 2" (ground effect) I got some great hover time last night at 2-3'. Blew a set of CF blades and some other head parts when it contacted an object (I guess I lost it or my reaction time was off).[:@] I purchased the plasti-sym blades this time as well as other needed parts. The plastic blades are cheaper than CF and might be a little more forgiving. Stock flat bottom blades are out of the question because the thing flies good with sym blades. I'll be happy when I get this learning process done. The simulator helps but the actual reaction of the heli differs as well as the simulator lacks depth in orientation.

Hello crashcrash. Hey just be patient. Let me know how those plastic semetrical blades, i just put the wooden ones on and im pretty sure they are going to get messed up soon so i might go carbon or plastic so let me know how they fly.

I used a set of plasti-blades on a friends blade and loved them. As far as the sim is concerned, I just got a data projector and now my sim can go up to 25' wide (hee,hee), actually pretty cool. Just like standing at the field. Now all I need is a blank 25' wall to fly on.

Zooland1

Hey zoo, a 25 foot blank wall for the Sim sounds Sweet.
It is all about the toys. Hows the C30 doing ?

Bob

dignlivn

Still trying to get the idle speed dialed in. It does fine at throttle hold, but flip the switch and it wants to take off. That works OK for idle up, but I don't trust myself enough to fly this one in idle up yet so I need to figure out what's going on. Been very busy working on the new house. Not much time to play.

Didn't find my question in my search so...what is the difference between the CP and CP Pro?

The CPPro comes with the acrobatic kit installed--symmetrical blades, heat sinks, a different motor pinion, a LiPo battery.
It also has a separate receiver and 3-in-1 unit, where the CP has a 4-in-1 and a NiMh or NiCd battery pack.
The CPPro has a Bell-Hiller head standard, this is an expensive upgrade for the CP.
The CPPro has cooler decals.

Jdoug,

The two major differences between the CP and the Pro are the Bell-Hiller upgrade and the 3-in-1 controller.

The Bell-Hiller gives you much more cyclic/right stick control response in comparison to the CP.

The 3-in-1 controller, gives you the option to upgrade to a brushless motor and/or a head holding gyro. It' pretty much plug and play with the motor or gyro. With the CP 4-in-1 controller, you can not upgrade to the brushless or gyro.

Dave / Choppersrule

Thanks guys. I just picked up a Blade CP ready to go with 2 lipos for $125 from a friend. Decent deal I thought. The only thing...I've never flown a heli... Since I don't know anyone who does I figure I'll learn the hard way. I'm definately in no rush to get this thing off the ground, so I'm taking it extremely slow. Trying to learn to hover. My brother also got one (helimax CP). We'll keep the LHS in business!

One quick question. The fly bar...is it supposed to be level or pitched up a little to help with lift?

Let's see--last question first: the flybar must be perfectly balanced and perfectly level and in track with itself. I look at the leading and trailing edges of the paddles and try to get them lined up with the little link balls on the flybar control frame. If the paddles are parallel to the frame they are parallel to each other.
I check the flybar tracking by removing the main blades, unplugging the tail motor (Noting carefully the polarity), and running the helicopter at moderate rpm. There should be no vibration and the flybar should track accurately. If I look at it sideways, it should look like one thin thing, not two, as it spins. This is pretty important, the flybar is what you control with the controls and it in turn flys the main blades on the CP non-bell/hiller head. I adjust by loosening the little screw/nut and twisting, and adjust balance by loosening the little setscrews at the control frame and sliding the whole flybar either way and measuring accurately. The collars right up at the paddles are the flybar weights, one can make the helicopter somewhat less responsive ("Twitchy")) by adding another set of weights here, or more responsive by sliding these weights evenly in toward the hub. Tighten carefully, one doesn't want this stuff flying off, I use Tamiya liquid threadlocker or Loktite 222.

Secondly, if you are going to use the LiPos in the CP as opposed to the CPPro, you might want to read the notes on the Horizon/EFlite site on motor/pinion/battery combos for the helicopter. Important info for motor life, etc.
I think you can also download a manual here, which is very helpful to have, for setup info and parts drawings.

Thirdly, and very importantly, RADD's.
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html

Have fun and keep us posted, you can get a lot of good info from these threads, and a laugh or two too.

Jellyson - Thanks for the tips...I have already read through and printed off the RADD's tutorial. I guess I'm going in the right direction. ...man, these little choppers are cool.[8D] Now, I just have to be patient.

jdoug

Here is another link to some great help.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_31...y_blade/tm.htm

As stated before, if your using Lipo's and the flat blades, you need
a Main Motor with the 8 tooth Pinion. That is what i'm currently using.
I too am learning the hard way ( No Sim) , not to scare you out of the
Hobby, but you will Crash and need Parts. On the other hand when you
get the bird into a stationary Hover,it is a Great Feeling, just remember
it is all about Control and Landing ! lol Here is a list of parts that I have
ordered many times. The more you keep on hand the better.

Spindle
Main Shaft,with gear
Blades
Tail Motors

Let us know how it is going, theres a lot of us here that started
just like you. Good Luck and have fun

Bob

dignlivn

And landing gear struts... lots of landing gear struts.
And use the training balls.

And maybe a spare tailboom...

You should have put blades in bold

I have 2 Lipos: both 3cell 11.1V One is 850mAh (I think) and the other is a 1200mAh. I already have the Duratrax ICE charger for my boats that will do Lipos. Does anyone know what the normal charge rate is?

I just got my blade cp today how do u adjut the gyro . mine keeps going to the right and when getting a hair off the ground keeps going backwards . Any adjustments i can make

You want to charge at 1C or less. 850 mah would be a max of .85 amp charge rate and the 1200 can handle 1.2 amps.

Duane--you need to adjust the proportional, not the gyro. You have to disconnect the battery each time to make the adjustment. IIRC turn counterclockwise to make the nose go left. Adjust in very small increments. Just to clarify- you are talking about the tail out of control, right? Because that's the only thing the propo or gyro control. If you're talking about the whole heli leaning to the right, your swash is out of level. That also could account for backward flight. It is normal to have to give a little right (not left) and forward stick while lifting off. First try adjusting it out with the trims. Keep in mind you will always be making slight corrections for side to side or forward/backward movement while in flight.

Money pit (micro heli's)? Bought a dragonfly#4, hovered it a few times, broke it a few times replaced the parts. Took it out to the fieild and put it up...it went snake poop on it's own, crashed (radio probs I think) never actually got a flight. Got rid of it (couldn't see putting another dime into it) and bought a CPB thinking it would be better. Did some short hovers doing OK and I fell asleep while the battery was charging and burnt them to bits (my fault). Ordered a new battery and flew it some more...battery seemed weak because it drained more quickly than the old original battery. Flying again and I hit something. Took out the spindel and CF blades. Ordered the plasti symm blades and parts to fix head. Now it will hover for about 45sec before falling out. I know as the battery drains you have to trim your tail and alierons to maintain level straight hover because it changes as it drains (does for mine ayway). Again...I haven't even flew this thing and it continues to suck $$$. I may have got a new battery pack with a bad cell, $23.00 gone. I'm going to get a new battery pack today to see if it will help the power drain problem. Before I took out the CF blades and spindel, I was getting pretty competent in hovering (almost 1-2 full minutes in the air without having to land). I hope like heck I can get a handle on this before it runs me to bankruptcy. Any one else have this much BAD LUCK?

Crash,

Yep, had my share of BAD LUCK early on too. Been flying about a year now. The first two months were a total disaster for me. I couldn't even begin to tell you how many sets of blade I busted. Took me weeks, just to get a 10 second hover. Then everything just clicked. Now hovering and flying are second nature, your fingers and brain start to work together. Takes time, everyone has a different learning curve. Go slow and be patient.. Also, get more $$$$

Dave / Choppersrule

Speaking of money down the tube, my son-in-law bought a new nitro plane about three weeks ago. Hadn't had a chance to fly until I went down yesterday. He is actually a pretty good pilot and flew it about two hours off and on. He apparently was doing some loops and rolls (I was flying my rex so I wasn't watching) and on the last loop it just stopped responding and nosed in from about 50 feet up at approximately 70 mph. $375 just obliterated in about two seconds. He lost the motor too. Like I said, I was flying the rex and it startled me so bad I put it down a little too hard and trashed a set of blades. So his crash even cost me $12, I'll accept the trade off.

Crashcrash--hope that makes you feel better. Like choppersrule said, the key is take it slow. and if you don't have a good sim, RF G3 is down to $169. I know that's more money, but will save you a fortune in the long run. And besides, it's Christmas, get somebody else to pay for it.

After throwing another $75 into it for Li-Po and charger...I had several GOOD hover flights ranging from 3" to 5' last night. I had night watch at the factory last night so I flew in the fork truck maint garage. A couple guys walked in on me, they were impressed. I told them how hard it is for me being new and they said I make it look easy. Maybe my string of bad luck is changing. I actually brought it home in one piece. I can't wait till my next coverage day so I can fly there some more (indoor...lots of room).