No, I've had the stock antenna mounted about 50 different ways. The last one I had looked like the picture. Still glitched like mad.

I've read that the GWS RX was not too high in the quality realm. You may have gone from one bad one to better, but still not great. Usually glitching is caused by radio noise. Check the capacitors on your motor to see that they're making contact. You also might try wrapping the Rx wire in foil to shield it. Don't know if that would help or make it worse.

On another note, did you say a while back you have revo set at -15, -15. I wanted to set mine and can't remember. And with three threads and over 3000 posts I don't feel like looking for it. IfyaknowwhatImean.

I've replaced both motors and I've checked the capacitors.

The GWS receiver is an ok receiver. the Quality control on them is just really bad. I've had 4 bad ones and 2 good ones. When they are good they are good though. This receiver has range tested fine and showed no glitching in my MHO. I think the problem is one of the speed controllers in the 4-in-1. Once I got the receiver away from the 4-in-1 the problem decreased greatly. It only ever starts to glitch when my hands go near the 4-in-1. I can hold it anywhere else and have no issues.

I did not want to spend $60 on an Electron 6 if this didn't work. I already had the crystal so the test only cost me $25

I think my revo is currently
LO -5
HI -20

My throttle and pitch curves are below:
Normal Pitch curve: 40,40,50,75,100
Normal Throttle curve: 0,25,50,75,100

Idle Up (1) Pitch curve: 0,25,50,75,100
Idle Up (1) Throttle curve: 100,75,50,75,100

Idle Up (2) Pitch curve: 0,25,50,75,100
Idle Up (2) Throttle curve: 100,100,100,100,100

Idle 2 is what Ron Osinski recommends. He says that
My Revo settings work better in idle up modes than they do in normal mode because the normal setup is not linear and the REVO settings are a linear curve. So I have the revo set to a switch that I turn on once I switch into idle up.

Wonder if you can set the revo to trigger with the idle-up switch. Since you name the switch it works on, maybe it can be set to idle 1 too. That way it would be automatic. Just a thought.

I would think it would be possible. I've not tried it though.

Hey all good stuff here! I am trying to get the head assembly off of my Blade CP. Can anyone tell me how to get main blade grip sets off? There are allen keys within the grips but can not budge them. Thanks a million

Couldnt budge mine either. Still need fix'en!

get a quality driver and they will break loose.
if you try to use a low quality driver, you run the risk of stripping the hex out and then you got problems

You will probably have to destroy one of the blade grips and the spindle and bolt - use a grinding bit on a Dremel tool. SOmetimes they are really bent! Probably destroyed spindle anyway and grips are cheap.

Cheers.

Thanks for your replies. This is very frustrating I was all gunho about RC Helis but am getting very tired of all this. The parts are so dang fragile but yet need brute force to accomplish your goal. grrrrr

Hang in there Fuel1212. After lots of replacing parts (and what seems like a million dollars) I'm just now getting to where I can make several long flights without mishap. Its worth the effort.

Thanks Pauly I will hang in there. I have had my Blade for a couple months now and have enjoyed every minute. I can even hover it for quite a while now. I just want to get back together so I can get it in the air again. I wish I had a local friend that could put these things back together.

Ya i have a blade cp and learned to fly off it. so far its cost me like $100 in parts and rotors buts its well worth it. keep trying and never give up and ull be pro someday!

Matt

My BCP has been having alot of head play lately... (quit snickering)....
I've been rebuilding it and have found the following.

The shearpin hole in the main shaft is larger than my shearpin. The mainshaft and gear are new. Is this normal, or do I need a new shearpin?

The other thing I've noticed is that the hole in the center hub that the blade grip spindle goes through is oval in shape. The oval extends vertically (up and down), not horizontally (side to side). Is this supposed to be like this or could this be another source of my slop?

Thanks in advance guys,

Fish

I dont know much about slop except that i have a little and my heli flys wonderfully. you can always check this link to see if u have too much play http://www.bladecprepair.com/man_mr_trouble.html.

Hey there Fuel,

you need two 3mm allen wrences to take the grips off. That works better than a screwdriver or pliers. then you can reuse the bolts.

Good Luck and Good flying

Sounds like you may have a combination of problems. The shear pin can be a little lose in the shaft (but should be snug) as long as it's tight in the spindle. hence second problem. Sounds like you have too much negative movement and its pushing on the spindle, which would put pressure on the pin causing the oval hole. You may have originally set the swash a tad high causing the difference. You can try a cut off T-pin like they use on posterboard and stuff. You know, they look like straight pins and are shaped like a T on top. These are slightly thicker than the standard shear pin, but work well for an oversized hole. You should probably pick up a main shaft/gear set and spindle, because it sounds like you've got way too big an opening. The reason I suggest the T-pin is if you have to order parts at least you can still fly.

Thanks for the reply. My head was set up as described in the thread. The swash was set at a half inch etc., but I have had a few blade strikes. The current mainshaft and gear are brand new adn jsut installed, so it really shouldn't be the mainshaft that's the problem. I wonder if my jesus pin is deformed from blade strikes etc.

I'm thinking seriously about getting the full cnc head. Looking at how much flex the plastic has I'm thinking aluminum may be the way to go. I figure the cost of the aluminum swash, the bell hiller upgrade, and replacing other parts that are fitting a little too loose IMO is going to make it so that just going aluminum may be worth it in the long run. I'm still pretty new and still climbing the learning curve, but it seems to me that the lack of slop tha the aluminum head is reported to have would probably help with learning a bit.

I've seen a few posts about the aluminum head, but not a lot of followup. For those that have it... has it made a big difference? Would it make learning a little easier? I like the idea of more durable parts, and looking at the cost of the replacement parts for it? Well they really aren't that expensive.

Hi

Hay Bdavison did you ever get that bell-hiller upgrade for your Blade CP if so how long will it be before you finish the last sections of this thread.

I'm pickin one up today, should get it installed today and will report.

Im still trying to get my hands on the bell/hiller head parts...They are gone as quick as they come around. Once I get them I will post ALL about them, and hopefully have some set-up tips and tricks.

I do finally have the set-up for the idle-ups.

Pitch curve for Idle-up

22%
39.0%
57.5%
67.5%
78.5%

This seems to work just fine so far. You may of course have to tweak these for your settings, but it should get ya in the ballpark.

BDavidson, and everyone get your hands on the upgrade. For those of you with a simulator mine now flies more like a raptor than just a cheap 1st heli. WAY more responsive, I also took off my flybar weights. No more lag when you give it right it goes right quick. will post pics later

Hello Fellow BCP pilots and Tech service crews... I was given a used BCP this morning and I am glad to say as of 10pm it has flown, hovered and touch-n-go'ed off the wifes car hehe (her car has nice flat roof). I will post photos and my set up with list of parts as soon as i rest a bit. Most of the parts are off my ole FP walkera (gyro, esc's and tail rotor motor) I chopped a new un-used set of Aligin 315 wood blades to size, sealed ends and painted tips one red and the other blue and balanced, I'm using a Optic6 TX, GWS RX, E-flight servos, Park370 4100kv motor with 10 tooth, have new BH set as well. I did read most of the Blade posts and paid close attention to tracking troubles, may have saved me days if not weeks. 1st impression of my lil hot rod heli is NICE machine! Thanks to all your posts and photos!

edz

setup is
normal mode
pitch...throttle
1=45....10
2=48....65
3=58....70
4=80....90
5=100...100

ST-1
1=0......100
2=20.....85
3=50.....80
4=80.....85
5=100...100

revo mix +80 @low throttle, +30 @high, +30 @high & low on ST-1

I get 10mins flight time with 650mha NiMh batteries, I'll need to lower gear to 8t for 3C1P 1100mha lipo

I hope this helps some?

edz