Thanks Pearl, nice helo you have there! yup with over 120 flights you are well past the Radd stage, question on fuselage was that a two piece one that can be painted on the inside? Any mods needed for it to fit? I was looking at the aluminum head but figure just starting out I should avoid anything that will transfer force to other components, though I would like to add the aluminum blade grips as they are a pain to replace! Anyone have just the aluminum blade grips on theirs? I have not had a chance to read this whole thread yet.

On my Cp Pro the two sarvo arm are not level. They both stick up a little bit. Is this normal are should I adjust the arms to make them level,
Carl

Hi Gene,

Thanks for the kind words...The fuselage I bought had 2 seperate halves. No mods were required for the body to fit, but it did take a lot of time to make it fit perfectly. Yes, the fuselage can be painted on the inside for a more shinny look and clear windows if thats what you want. As for the aluminum blade grips, the blade grips that came with the CNC head I bought, will not fit the factory plastic rotor head, it's a total different setup. There may be a company that does offer aluminum grips for the factory head, I don't know for certain. You may wanna start a thread on that topic and find what you want.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

Carl not really sure as I am new to this, mine are not completely level either and actually think my left servo is binding as I hear a clicking sound when it is all the way down! Pearl Where did you get the fuselage I see alot of them but not sure which one to get! Also I just ordered just the CNC blade grips for the pro which should fit. Think the other ones I saw were for the regular CP which had the grips for just the hiller head. I am waiting patiently for my three days off starting Wed so I can really take a look at the helo and start tweaking and testing it! My G3.5 should be here by Friday so I plan on getting some time on that before my next real test flight! Been flying the heck out of my CX2 right now! LOL

Hi Everyone,
I'm really enjoying reading all of your comments. I've replaced most parts on my BCPP at least once and some 5 or 6 times. This was just to learn to hover. Needless to say, I have a good understanding of how things work now. The included charger failed on the 4th charge....pitty. Has anyone ever hit the Idle up accidentally, and not figured out immediately what the hey was happening? Ouch!

Carl,

I looked at the servo arms on my CPP and they are basically level, 1 of them is not perfectly level but it flies fine. If your servo arms and swashplate are basically level and your heli flies fine, I wouldn't worry about it.


Gene,

Here is a link to the site where I bought the Hughes MD500D fuselage http://helihobby.com/html/scale_helicopter.html Half way down the page is where most of the CPP fuselages are. Every fuselage they have will tell you what heli they are for, most of them are for bigger heli's like the T-Rex and others.
Heres another link for scale fuselages for the CPP and others http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?cPath=59
The G3.5 is a great investment for new pilots, I also have it and has helped very much.


Franz,

The idle-up should only be activated when the heli is in a hover. I believe the idle-up gives the heli a constant rotor head speed for 3-D. Before you plug in the Lipo battery for flight, check to make sure the idle-up switch is pushed away from you.

Wouldn't worry about that - if Idle is on or trottle is not fully down, heli never turns on. red light is shining instead of flashing green while calibrating gyro...
Only problem is if you turn it to idle during flight and don't realize that - you should smash it into ground unbelievebly fast instead of slow landing =)

I hope it's all true - I don't have stock Tx for a year - bought a Optic 6 after frying old stock Rx (I don't know, 10 min of full trottle on Idle is maybe too much for 3in1... =/ )

Kryso

My 3 in 1 unit has taken a poop on me i think and my servos keep destroying their gears . When I raise collective the rpm changes but the pitch angle does not. I have changed the servos and have had no luck fixing the problem. The helicopter would hover then drop a few feet like a rock then resume a hover. This is my first heli and I do know how to fly it now but can't figure out what is wrong. Please help if its the 3in1 Please let me know how much you would like for yours I would buy new but these prices are killing me. [email protected] Thanks sean

Hi, wake, It probably is the semi-fried Rx (if you did switch Tx off first few times (it's quite sensitive on it) or have a few crashes (even more sensitive on this one... =) ) Electronics in blade have no vibration and mechanical-damage protection so... =/
3in1 looks only after main and tail motor (including gyro) so I don't think it's the problem...
Try a new Rx - It's a few bucks (well, two fews...)

good luck...

Kryso

EDIT: oh, and check the right polarity on servos' connectors... =) (sorry, I hope you're not that blunt...)

Thanks for the input Pearl and kryso. I had my heli armed and ready to go. I accidentally hit the idle up, but couldn't figure out immediately why it was acting possessed. I now have a piece of tape over it, so that it doesn't happen again. I'm getting ready to use the idle up, but I think I need more than the 3 square feet of the cellar floor that I'm using to hover. I want a little more wiggle room when I first try it. All of these repairs are making me less brave. It's way too cold and snowy out to even think about going there for many weeks yet. Wake 133... I feel your pain

My blade CP Pro does the exact same thing. It will fly for a couple of minutes then it will drop out of the sky 2-3 feet. I have tried different batteries, moved the antenna and it still drops out of the sky. I am going to upgrade to a TREX 450 SE V2 shortly. I enjoy the blade cp pro but they are a money pit. I have upgraded everything to include:
G90 gyro (recommended, do not fly your heli without)
Dual Tail Motors (recommended)
Microheli CNC Main shaft (recommended)
Microheli CNC blade grips (recommended, 3rd upgrade to make)
Microheli CNC flybar system (recommended)
Microheli CNC center hub (not recommended, use the plastic one since the MH one bends very easy)
Titanium tail boom (recommended, 2nd upgrade so you never replace another tail boom)
Super skids (recommended, 1st upgrade)
Park 370 brushless motor (recommended)
Microheli tail support (recommended)
Microheli CNC aluminum frame (not recommended, servo cases do not last long and break at the little holes at top and bottom) cannot use lock tight on
servo cases it will crystalize the case immediately) FRAME looks great, but is to tight and my CP Pro flies better with the 5.00 plastic frame with
Super Skids.

***Do not waste your money on carbon blades for any beginner flight, use the flat bottom plastic type mentioned earlier. The flat bottom blades are stone and stable blades and great for learning. If you are going to use symmetrical or carbon blades use the EFLITE ones. Do not waste your money on the cheap ones, they are junk and will not lift your heli!

***Servos are reversed on the Blade CP Pro Eflite S75 servos. I tried to use some JR servos and they will not work with the standard BCP Pro radio. You must get a new radio if you want to use HITEC, JR servos. You can modify the servos but it requires some work! KISS (keep it simple stupid)

I hope this helps someone out! I have spent some serious cash and have broke just about every part of the blade cp pro. Use the recommendations above to save you money on the BCP PRO.

I am no way affiliated with these sites but highly recommend them due to quick shipping, large selection, cheapest prices, and excellent service:
http://www.eboyztoyz.net/
http://stores.ebay.com/HopMeUp

Do not order from microheli directly, it comes from Vietnam and takes weeks for shipping and you can get it in 2-3 days from the above sites.

Brady

Has anyone had any problems with the EFLITE lipo charger? Mine works about 20% of the time. I have 4 batteries and it will charge them differently every time. Sometimes they are good for 8 minutes, sometimes they crap out immediately. I know I need to get a good charger, but need some recommendations from you guys before I spend 150.00 on a charger that cost more than the BCP Pro originally. I need a charger that will charge TREX 450 batteries also. ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?

Afive6troll,

MRC Super brain chargers are high quality and will charge many different types of batteries fully. You can go to your favorite website or Ebay for the charger. If you have an Ebay account it will probably be the cheapest way.

Goodluck,


Corey

I have a question on the left and right servo arms. are they the same as on the CX2. If it is drifting right or left will the right side linkage adjustment fix this and if it is going foward or backwards will the left linkage correct that. Not sure about the front servo what is that for. I installed the Super skids and took someones advice and used my stock battery tray and that worked out good. I have to move the battery way up front to get it to ballance it out though. I was thinking about getting the ball link pliers,do they work good and what size would I need for the Cp Pro.
Carl

I thought I had my Cp Pro trimed out pritty good now the only problem I have it wants to take off to the left. I hate to mess with the wrong linkage. What one would correct this.
Carl

The front servo tilts the swash up and the back servos tilt it down. Also the front servo tilts the swash down and the back servos tilt it up. The left and right servos work together to tilt the swash left and right.

Witch servo linkage would I mess with to stop it frome wanting to go to the left.
Carl

Rotate the left pushrod looking at the back left so it goes up. It might also be that your right servo is to low. Make sure your swashplate is level looking at the side and the front. That should help get rid of that problem.

That's right - pull out motor connectors and move cyclic up and down and watch desk and servo arms. One should be slower. Then, always replace all three servos. Like I said, they're slowering during time and loosing precise...

I had the same problem with the e-flite charger. I opened the case and found that the charging jack had a broken solder joint from wiggling the plug on and off. I glued it down good with CA and resoldered the joint and it works find now.

afive6troll,
I had trouble with the eflite balance charger; it worked for about 5 charges then kept coming up with the error lights after charging a few minutes. I lost the receipt, otherwise would have contacted eflite. The CPPro is a rather pricey heli, and that charger is part of the premium price. I feel they should have included something better, or lose the thing and reduce the price of the heli.
Also have had trouble with sudden drops in altitude; although I haven't flown it outside yet, just in the basement. Thanks for revealing that, I'm kind of concerned about going outdoors at a greater altitude. Also have had the gyro go haywire too, and the tail spin uncontrollably, then come back online. I' don't think I'll bother upgrading this; just fly and repair, fly and repair.
Oh, I found a balance charger at Balsa Products that includes the balancer in one unit. It's called the CY-550B balance charger for about 80 beans. It has some funky connector strips that you can buy for just about any battery. It seems to work OK, but is of lesser quality than my Triton Jr. It's classic Chinese........Franz

Quick question is a 300 size brushless motor too small for the CP Pro, I know it says it is good for one but might be a little underpowered. Anyone know what size pinion to use with it? I am using a 370 with a 8t, So maybe a 9 or 10T? I have two of these birds and I am thinking maybe the 300 size motor will be better to practice with. Still working on hover mode and getting the bird with the 370 trimmed out. Thoughts from the collective? Thanks Gene

I don't think so. I have 400 brushed motor inside mine and is flying pretty well (never try harder 3D, though..) And brushless 370 is much stronger and lighter....

Did you mean you have the 300 in yours, as the 400 would be a stronger motor than the 370. Just want to make sure the 300 will be alright to use in it, what pinion you using if you are using the 300?

No, no I'm using 400 brushed Baron with 11T pinion. All I wanted to say is, the 370 brushless is stronger and lighter than my 400 brushed so don't worry about power - will be great. I just don't want to upgrade to brushless because of much work on it. I have Blade only for joy and fun... I recomend 10 or 11 tooth pinion - higher headspeed give little more stability, especially in some wind...
So again, 370 brushless with 11T is the best choice for blade. You will need brushless DD tail or at least dual motor, though...

Kryso