*not horizon. . . my LHS owner. 'got him on speed dial!

I just found out what I think is the problem. I reread the instructions and it said that the gyro must not be set on digital servo and set on normal. I thought I set it on HH but I set it on Digital (on my gyro it just says "high rate servo") and BOOM it worked. I will have to see if it works tomarro it's too dark now.

Thanks for all of the help,
Justin

i've gotta problem, my LED on the choper alternates green and red, and yes the Tx is turned on and trimed down, i guess i'm calling the company tomarow.

Make sure the upper right switch (flight mode) is pushed towards the back of the TX! And throttle is all the way down.

i did

I had that problem when I first got mine. Have you used the Rx before or is it new? My Rx was dead when I got my BCPP so my LHS replaced it for me a now it works.

I got the G500T gyro working as far as not totally flipping out but now it will not respond to Tx controls. I tried the gyro on a servo instead of the tail motor and it works fine and responds to control inputs. I have not flown it yet so maybe it will work once it's in the air... []

Thanks for all of the help,
Justin

To me this sounds like you have your motor leads mixed up, with your tail motor plugged into the main motor slot and vice versa. Easy to do, will caouse exactly what you are describing.

If you are using an external gyro you _must_ disable the 3-in-1 gyro/mix function by turning the _Proportional Mix_ pot all the way counterclockwise. Since this disables the entire unit except for the escs, the unit's gyro gain setting is irrelevant so you might as well leave it like you had it in case you want to go back.

When all else fails, RTFM.

There is no misprint in the manual, it's instructions are correct, if it isn't working for you, you are most likely doing something wrong.

The jumping up and down problem can be caused by a bad servo--guess how I know. But sticky collective is the most likely cause.
Also my mysterious nodding problem that I mentioned on another thread was caused by a stripped servo.

As far as I know you are the only one of us who has used that gyro, so let us know about your experiences. I would set its "servo" travel to 100 percent to start with.

Jellyson

Happy New Year!

Hey, did you ever get your bl tail working......

I could not tweak my settings where it was flyable and the motor would stop spinning at rest.......

I looked back at the manual for the BCPP and YES I did mix up the leads. I feel so retarded. Now it works fine but I have not flown yet because it's too early. I will have to tell you how it goes.

Thanks a lot guys I thought for a second it would not work and I wasted my good money.

Justin

Just try to guess how I knew....

And yes, rob, I got it working about 1230 last night and I just hold the stick to the left or trim left and it stops. Totally flyable but unsatisfatory performance, I think because of the time lag in the bl esc for the tail. But I ditched the square-ended 3020 prop and went back to the other one and it works better. Still experimenting.

Up to 428 grams with the supre skids on, looks great , I also put a GWS tail boom piece on that is about 3 cm longer than the stock boom.

Be sure to set the auto-low-voltage cutoff to a "lower" voltage on the tail esc than on the main--guess what happens if you don't---
riiight....

.
It'll be more exciting, but not as "plummety" as it would be with the main motor ESC reaching LVC in flight.
It is nice to see those LVC points do work! I noted that when I switched back to Nimhs from Lipos in one plane. The motor cut off way too quickly!

The G500T gyro works now but I have a new problem...

The heli won't lift off and when it does it only stays for abound 5-10 seconds with full throtle. The gyro is 29grams around 3x that of the g90 at 9grams. What should I do? Just increase pitch? I increased it a little but I think I made one of the links on the swash a little too long and the heli went to the left so I'll have to cheak.

The battries read out at around 12.14 volts so the battries are good.

Also to increase pitch should I increase the pitch links or the servo push rods? Does it matter?

Thanks,
Justin[]

Jellyson


I didn't think the tail held in climb out as well as the GWS motor... The short while I had it on...

MAN! I found an RC Club that has a field 1 mile from my house.. Went out today to see if anyone was flying and WOW!

Met a guy doing HARDCORE 3D on a Hirobo 50 and a TREX 600! FRIGHTENING!!!!![sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

WOW! I am speachless! That Trex 600 is a must see.....

It makes the Trex 450 look like a PiccoZ! 4600mah battery was HUGE!

Just had to share....

Happy New Year!

I think the pitch is ok but the head speed seems slow. Any tips on how to get lift off is greatly apreciated.

Thanks,
Justin

I saw a TRex 600 on the bench at the LHS, he had a battery problem, it was going to cost him like 300 dollars, because he flew 30 seconds too long...but yes, big and awesome, I'd like to see one fly.

Cmdr. Bob, I don't think the weight would make that much difference--if you didn't change anything else, I would suspect that the gyro might be drawing more current than we would expect. First thing I'd try would be to unplug the gyro but leave it on the heli, wire up the tail like normal, and see if it still won't climb out.

If we can eliminate the gyro as the problem, then the next thing would be to increase pitch a little. Whether to use the pitch links or the servo link rods will depend on the travel limit of the head. Look at how the part called the "rotor head" slides on the center hub. The upper and lower limits of the travel here are what you have to watch for. The servo rods should be set so that you are just clear of the stops at the top and bottom for low stick and high stick in idle up. Usually if you use the servo rods to raise the pitch very much you will wind up binding at the bottom travel of the head. But this depends on , like, where it's at right now, you dig man?
I prefer to use the servo rods to raise the pitch if it's just a hair, say 2 full turns max, because it just is easier, bearing in mind the binding thing I mentioned above. You can use the pitch links of course, but this may require retracking, and those things are so darn small...
Usually you will wind up using a combination of both to get it really right.
But as a first pass, adjust each of the three servo link rods, or and/or the two pitch links, equally and by full turns (the sockets fit better one way.)

If your headspeed seems low, and the only change was the gyro, do what I said in the last post, check for excessive current draw from the gyro.

In case anyone was wondering,
Yes the stuff I post really does work!

I just today built up a completely stock Blade CPPro from the spares and pulls. I set it up mechanically just exactly as I have been advising on these threads. I used all stock components and the stock transmitter/receiver. The only upgrade is the EFlite aluminum swash with the Align balls and servo links. The tail is completely stock. No external gyro.

On initial hover, the helicopter required no trim to hover easily. The proportional mix needed a slight tweak, so I landed and performed this adjustment, and boosted the gyro gain a bit. Took off and hovered and swooped and practiced orientation in normal and idle-up for the rest of the (stock) battery pack without further trimming or gyro adjustment.
That was it!
The blades were even in track.

Of course I could be making the whole thing up...
but I'm not.

How can I make shure that the gyro is actualy pulling excesive curent? I do have a muilti meter that can read amps and volts. It says on the instructions with the gyro says "operating voltage 4.8V only Operating current 95mah" What can I do if it is drawing too much current?

Thanks so mcuh,
Justin

You unhook the silly thing and see if the helicopter climbs out better without it.
Like I said up there.

Sorry, it would be the gyro telling the motor to work too hard. The gyro itself should draw very little.

I would try turning the gain down, if this is indeed the culprit. But first see if it is the culprit!

Ok I need some expert help please.
I installed the DD and did a few test flights...Everything flys wonderful except for the power seems gone.
I used to lift off with plastic sym-blades just over 1/2 throt. now is around 3/4...also full throttle gives a pretty weak climb compared to before....
I tried balsa blades and it was much better however still much less power than before the DD...
I also notice the 3in1 now has a red light in hover indicating 3in1 is *****g out. The light used to be green in hover and only went red in a hard climb...
Please let me know your experiance with this mod and if you saw similar power loss due to the bigger tail motor.
I am flying 800mAh eflite batts. I believe I read the robmoney or someone was flying with DD and a brushless with these batts?
Also my fly time on one of these batts seemed to go way down with the DD?
Help I dont want to fry anything if this is not normal for this mod.
Thanks, Noah

i talked to my uncle tonight, he's gonna grab hopefully two packs worth of lipo cells for me tomarow. do you think that 1500 is going to be to heavy if all i'm doin is hovering on em?

It is too late now to fly but when the heli was in the air the gyro held the pretty well so it is not spinning really fast but I don't know if it somehow is loosing power. Also the gyro itself has no gain pot because it uses the remote gain control and when the ch5 knob is set higher than half way counter clock wise the heli main blades and tail totally flip out. So I have it about mid way or a little less. I don't know why it does this. If all else fails I will have to get a T-rex or the belt driven upgrade so the gyro uses a servo instead...

Tomorrow I'll try it with out the gyro and see.

Thanks,
Justin

Comander Bob
If for some reason you don't want to try what I suggest, of course that is entirely up to you.
It probably isn't what is wrong anyway.

mojoe
I have used 1320 mAh packs in the stock motor configuration without any problems. I have used a 2250 mAh pack with the brushless setup without problems, although the heli was definitely heavier feeling.
I would imagine that the 1500 might be a bit heavy for the stock setup. You might want to review the bulletin on the EFlite/Horizon Blade CP page about the motor/pinion/battery combos best suited for these helis.

I just flew with my heli w/o the gyro (gyro still onboard) and the same thing happened... Up for a few seconds (around a foot high) and then a slow decent w/ full throtle. I increased the pitch so it is about +1 at 0 throtle. Same thing... Maby the 3-in-1? could I of fried it when I had the motors switched? and the gyro with the main motor?

Thanks,
Justin