finally a day off to spend with the helis.....

and of course it's WINDY!


but that don't stop me. sure you think 5-10 mph winds too much for outside flight with a CX2....

going back to helicopter basics.... higher voltage LiPo = higher head speed = better performace, stability. right?

so I changed out the JST connectors on my CX2 and soldered on a Dean's Ultra for use with some more powerful LiPos. Made some mod's to the battery tray for holding a bigger batter, and......

Test flight 1) using a CSRC 7.4v 1100mAh LiPo, the heli could not hover higher then 5 feet with the added weight of the new pack.

Test flight 2) using a TP 11.1v 910mAh LiPo, WOW! this heli got some power now... however, during the second flight I burned up the stock 180 motor and she's now grounded.

Test flight 3) using the TP 11.1v 910mAh LiPo with Dynam Vortex 180 motors.... talk about an outdoor CX2! Wanting to see how much power the heli could handle, I punched the throttle and the heli dropped to the ground. Upon inspection, I noticed stripped the lower gear clean with the surge of power.

Off to the LHS for some parts!


also, got my TREX 600CF flying! Now that's a heli! now just got to figure out how to charge these 5000mAh LiPo's!


and finally, made some great progress on Rick's TREX 450SA. She's almost ready to ship out! Figured out the gyro settings and the tail is solid, tracking is perfect.... the only thing is she's got a little drift, just take some minor adjustments and she'll be heading home to Texas!

Here's some pics and vid link of a test hover:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5MHLfuLY1I

LOL....you and the CX's, that's funny stuff. The 450SA looks a little bouncy.....wind? Gonna get some SNOW flying in today.

Tried the flight....crappy. Wind was a bit much and tail control was gone fast from the belt shrinking in the cold. So much for that.

If I could throw 2 cents in, it sounds to me like a bearing went bad somewhere in the drive train.

God Bless!

Jay

yep, it was indeed the frame causing gear mesh problems- i extended the frame holes horizontally to allow for some gear pressure adjustment and it is all better now

thanks guys

edge

Crash wins the award again[:@]

Great! Now pm me with pics of the HDX450 and tell me your likes and dislikes.....dude, I wanna know what you know. Like construction quality, parts availability, motor, ESC, all that stuff. Full CNC head and tail?

Kinda.....I thought he was dealing with shaft drive (LOL), but I knew slipping was going on someplace. I'm having the same problem with Huey right now. I just can't buy the gyro being bad, something else is amiss. My belt tension is good.....main gear suspect or maybe pinion or loose motor.... (LOL), stuff happens. When in doubt...just take another guess.

yeah the test hover wasn't the greatest.... I was fighting the wind and the heli was drifting a little, so I was all over the sticks.

Looks like you had a handfull (LMAO). I figured out the problem with Huey (stupid). I was trying to fly the Huey but the DX6 was set for the stock heli instead of the Huey. That'll kick your butt...for a minuet. Bad part was, I completely disassembled the Huey to find the problem....and had to put it all back together again when I discovered the radio mistake. I knew it was gyro related because it didn't sound right when the gyro armed, and it wouldn't hold the tail. Sure helps when you select the right model.[:'(]

One great feature of the the DX7, "model select" it only binds to the correct receiver. It's a life saver when you have 9 models programmed into your Transmitter!


I also found a great Lipo for the DX7 from Common Sense RC get the 2500mAh (#LP-TX2500) however, it seems they have an upgraded V2 model just released..

http://www.commonsenserc.com/index.php?cPath=37_27

hopefully, I won't have to plug in the "electric" blanket for my DX7 anymore..



and a question for all those guys praising the sim life:

who's using FS One with the DX7?
(Ol' Buddy Rick, how's your experience... thus far?)

I've recently went back to the simulators.... got to thank the early nights and the winter solstice for the lack of flying time! Anyways, I've given the FS One simulator another try, this time I purchased it with the stock Tac Con controller and the Hanger 1 Expansion Pack, plus a Holiday Season Discount!

knowing I can't use the programming in the DX7 with the sim, I still like the idea of getting use to ONE controller...

but I STILL CAN NOT GET THE DX7 CALIBRATED WITH FSONE!

please ANYONE, successfully using the DX7 with FSONE,

HELPPPPPP!!!!!!!

the only diff between the v1 and the v2 is the balance plug's polarity. The v1 is reverse of eflite, and the v2 is the same =) so get the v2 unless you want to see sparks fly. The v2's have been out for about 8 months or so.

It's just a simple matter of checking the data screen for which model is selected. I've made that mistake before, it no big deal except I went through a lot of work for nothing. On the up side, The motor, pinion, belt system all got a good look over (LOL). The simulators, I know they're getting better but they are not there yet as far as realism, so I'm not gonna make the plunge till they are over 85% accurate in visual and reactions. Dunno....I'm like that. I can hover nose in on a sim, can't do it in real life....very irritating (LOL).

how do you know which dx7 you have - a v1 or a v2, or is that the battery that has the versions? - the nimh batt mine came with charges from the plug hole and i know that's backwards from normal

crashcrash: hdx450 black frame from michael at ushobbysupply with all the goodies, including the dx7, which was supposed to be for my trex 600 christmas present but i snuck it out and left the box lol and she hasn't noticed yet - boring assembly, at least for me cause i'm a pilot not a mechanic - finless vids at helidirect (http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=2158) - blue anodized alumibling scratches really easy - stamped steel? gear looks cheezy against blue skids and scratches the finish on the skids - heavier than the trex se v2 due to all the alumibling - it flies scale ok 'through the glass', but with the solid fiberglass canopy the camera has to be mounted underneath instead being in the area of the pilot's seat where it's supposed to be


edge

Thanks for the info. I note you say you're not a mechanic but have you noticed if the ball ends on the link are soft or the mechanics are of lesser quality and poor fitting? There are several 450's on the market and most don't compare with the T-Rex as far as quality, even though they have complete CNC components. Man, you can really get lost in this stuff. The real suprising thing is the HBKII. It will mod up to a 450 class easily. Once you address the stock motor and the belt issues, it's a pretty durable and reliable machine.

BTW....you are gonna get CAUGHT and she WILL notice (LMAO), and I want to hear about it when she catches you.

i still have to sneak the dx7 back into the box by christmas night so i can unwrap it and be surprised - oh look, it even comes preloaded with all my models!!!!

balls look just like the standard metal align balls - i had to get some align balls for the servos cause i didn't have any, and the links fit fine on them so they must be the same - the linkages don't have a way to tell small side from large (no 'a'), but its not that hard to figure out


edge

it's just the csrc lithium Tx packs =) or atleast as far as I know.

No idea on the dx7 how to tell the difference between the revisions except opening it up and looking for a rev stamp on the board, or look up on the net and see if someone's got some pisc of diff board revisions and where parts are. That is if there is different revisions of it... I really have no idea =)

Well, not completely sold but not completely out of the question for me then. In otherwords, these ALign "knockoff's" may prove to be a decient value. Ever heard of the Vulcan 450? They require a bit more than "avaerage skills" to get them airworthy but once you get everything tuned, they're pretty good I've heard. Lots of problems involve linkages sticking or not moving freely. Other than that...good to go.

you need a linkage tool (looks like a punch with a ball end on it) to work on the linkages to get them right anyway, even on the hdx - check out the head setup video for more info - here's a pic



difference in the original and the clones between clone aluminum parts and original aluminum parts? - dunno, probably some tolerance issues like the indexing holes in the frames i had to hit with the file to get it to work right

you could always frankencopter one with all the good stuff from each design, which interests me strangely for some reason or other

lunch time = lhs time - later !!! - gotta also get some parts for the cx2 hands-off hover challenge to show these cx poseurs how its done lol


edge

I was talking about the TX packs being a different version. I talked with CSRC and the TX packs only come in one version, the version 2 have to do with balanced lead packs that have the polarity reversed.

Top anti-collision flashing beacon installed. Works independantly from the navagation lights and is motion activated (slightest motion turns it on and it stays on all while the heli is flying and running, shuts off after 20 seconds of no motion). Runs off 3 AC30 button batteries. Works real good so far. Wait a week, I'll get the bottom installed....maybe sooner (LOL).

Vic-- Looks good...! To nice to fly...Lol.. Funny, I was just eyeing the HBK2 on JagHobbies...Brushless 3800 for $209.00...The last few days have been tempting...Lol...If not soon there will be one in the hanger within 2 months. That means I'll have to be visiting from 2 forums to three...I need more time in the day ! Alright, good day to ya... Jeff

Just finished installing the lower ACL wired to the same module as the upper...works fine. All that's missing is landing lights, and they can be tied in with the NAV lights (LMAO). Maybe later I'll do that....really....because I ran out of electronic parts.

Really looking good Crash!

God Bless!

Jay

Here's a question for all my instructors on here: On my CPP, can I clip off my JST connectors, slap some EC3 connectors on, and run my Trex battery in the CPP ? The batt is a Thunder-Power 3-cell 15c 2100 mah...? Weighs about 145 grams.. I'am more curious on how stable the heli will fly with the more weight, and would like to put some cycles in the batt anyway, since it has been sitting until I get the Trex situated for flight. I've been thinking about it the last few days, but now I'am getting hungry to try it... If any one happens to know, let me know ! Otherwise, I'am trying it...I'am always a risk taker anyway...Lol..I've heard of 1300 mah being ran, but not to sure on the 2100 I want to try. I think I'am borderline or maybe a little over, in the CPP's case... Good day to ya all !

-- Jeff

Try it. Weight will be a major factor and double check CG. I doubt you'll fry the 3-1 (but then again?) BUT....the wires going into the 3-1 are for JST and MAY get hot enough to melt....I've seen it. It might be a BAD idea now I think about it, but if you try it...keep a close eye on everything. If your tail motor is weak...you'll finish that off for sure.